CDL stuck - HELP!!!! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Threads
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361
Location
Elverta, CA 95626
Last weekend, I grenaded my T/C (91 FJ80). I got a good take out from a local guy that parts out FJ80's, but he kept the CDL motor, so I swapped mine over.

Because I knew it was in a locked state when I pulled the old one out, I rolled the gear on the replacement T/C into the locked position before swapping the motor over.

Now, everything is back together, but the replacement T/C CDL won't unlock.

I tried disconnecting the plug on the rear output shaft (pass side, top), per instructions found on iH8mud (they said this should revert to an unlocked state). But no luck.

My questions are -
1) Is the CDL motor a pwr locked/no pwr unlocked configuration? Or is it pos/neg LOCK - neg/pos UNLOCK?

2) Does this motor ONLY run full lock/full unlock internal to the motor OR is it a run one direction to lock/the other to unlock until something else in the T/C tells it it's fully engaged/disengaged?

3) Do I need to remove the CDL motor to get it to clock correctly (ie motor locked AND T/C locked simultaneously)?

Additionally, there were 2 wires damaged in the removal process, that are now repaired. The first was one of the wires fir the neutral switch broke off right at the plug. I was able to source a new plug with ~2" wire, and soldered this to the harness on my 80. The 2nd was the yellow wire coming out of the top plate on the CDL motor. I soldered this wire back together. So, both repairs were done with solder/shrink tube, so the repairs wouldn't be an issue (ie bad connection).

Another point of interest worth mentioning, even though the CDL light on the dash is lit up, if I hit the manual dash CDL switch, the indicator light seems to get brighter
 
To clarify a couple of things, before we go down that rabbit hole -

YES, I have searched. For several days. So no need to chastise me for being lazy. I'm here, asking fellow Cruiser guys & gals if they have any ideas for me. So, as the old adage goes, "If ya ain't got nothing nice (or productive) to say; then keep YA DAMN MOUTH (or keyboard) SHUT"

"...I grenaded my T/C" - a catastrophic failure due to lack of lubrication. It sounds like the problem is somewhere in the input cluster of the T/C. Although I haven't completely disassembled the T/C; I did find the T/C alarmingly low on oil (ie almost NONE) AND, there was significant metal debris in what oil did come out.

Upon initial tear down, I found a sealing ring on the rear output shaft, for the oil pump galley, was broken & missing a portion. So, boys & girls, we have a what came first, the chicken or the egg scenario here. Did the lack of oil cause the oil sealing ring to break, from being run dry; or did the broken sealing ring cause the lack of oil flow to the input area of the T/C.

Well, in either case, I shot the damn chicken & ate the egg for breakfast.
 
When switched, does the actuator motor run? The documents explaining how it works are posted in this thread: CDL Actuator Fun
 
When switched, does the actuator motor run? The documents explaining how it works are posted in this thread: CDL Actuator Fun

It doesn't seem to hum if/when the manual switch is cycled.

To me, it seems as though it's stuck in the auto mode (ie when the T/C is shifted into low) and forced into lock mode.

I did unplug the connector on the rear output (next to the neutral switch), which should be what forces the auto lock engage when shifted into low. This did nothing.
 
Bueller, Bueller, Anyone, Bueller....

Can anyone weigh in with some answers to help me understand HOW the CDL motor works?

My questions are -
1) Is the CDL motor a pwr locked/no pwr unlocked configuration? Or is it pos/neg LOCK - neg/pos UNLOCK? (ie polarity reversal to change lock vs unlock)

2) Does this motor ONLY run full lock/full unlock internal to the motor OR is it a run one direction to lock/the other to unlock until something else in the T/C tells it it's fully engaged/disengaged? (Are there limit switches built into the lock motor? Or does it cut out based on over amperage, like the window switches)

3) Do I need to remove the CDL motor to get it to clock correctly (ie motor locked AND T/C locked simultaneously)? - Answers to 1&2 would probably lead me to this conclusion...

PLEASE HELP!!!
 
To lock, the electric motor runs in one direction until it hits its limit switch. To unlock the motor reverses and runs in the opposite direction until it hits the limit switch.
 
To lock, the electric motor runs in one direction until it hits its limit switch. To unlock the motor reverses and runs in the opposite direction until it hits the limit switch.
The limit switches control the relays that run the motor, as explained the linked post/thread above.

So, are those limit swirches internal to the lock motor?

What I'm trying to figure out is, if the CDL was in a locked position when the lock motor was installed, does the position of the lock motor (locked vs unlocked) matter? Does the lock/unlock need to be "timed" between the motor assembly and the CDL when mating them or will the lock motor "figure it out" based where the CDL is?

If the CDL is locked & the motor is in an unlocked position, will this resolve itself or does the lock motor need to be removed from the case, the CDL unlocked manually, then the lock motor re-installed?
 
So, are those limit swirches internal to the lock motor?

Yes

What I'm trying to figure out is, if the CDL was in a locked position when the lock motor was installed, does the position of the lock motor (locked vs unlocked) matter?

Yes

Does the lock/unlock need to be "timed" between the motor assembly and the CDL when mating them?

Yes

If the CDL is locked & the motor is in an unlocked position, will this resolve itself

No

or does the lock motor need to be removed from the case, the CDL unlocked manually, then the lock motor re-installed?

Yes

The FSM explains it and details how to install the actuator.
 

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