Castor plates advice (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here are my alignment numbers as of today.
Alignment check was free so that’s pretty cool

Definitely too much castor with the plates and the bushings.

My plan now, is to flip the 2nd bushing in each arm, upside down/ turn 180 degrees. Maybe that will give me enough clearance and reduce the castor a bit. Considering that the icon bushings are rated for 4.6 degrees of correction which is a ton of correction for bushings.
At this point it all about trial and error really.
If flipping the bushing does not work, I will replace the bushings with stock ones.
IF that still doesn’t fix my clearance issue then I will remove the metal techs and get some Land tank 2.5 plates.
If I still have clearance issues after all that, I’ll just drive the 80 into a swamp and leave it for a gator habitat.

View attachment 2288839
You'll never get those bushings out in one piece.

Just buy new OEM ones now and install them. That will solve the issue.
 
You'll never get those bushings out in one piece.

Just buy new OEM ones now and install them. That will solve the issue.

That's what I was concerned about... Then I'd be screwed and have no bushings to put back in. They are like 40 bucks a pop from McGeorge Toyota which are the cheapest ones I have found.

Has anyone used the Man a fre bushings? They are 12.99 for a pair. That seems ridiculously cheap or a clerical error.
 
These have been around a while i believe, they are just a ifp version of the resovoir shocks and no different in design to a fox, radflo, bilstein etc
That's what I was concerned about... Then I'd be screwed and have no bushings to put back in. They are like 40 bucks a pop from McGeorge Toyota which are the cheapest ones I have found.

Has anyone used the Man a fre bushings? They are 12.99 for a pair. That seems ridiculously cheap or a clerical error.

They are 39.99 +shipping for all 6 bushings needed for the radius arms directly from ManAFre's eBay store. I'm confused o_O
Sounds like a deal that you should jump on.

Ours are $120 for all 4 plus shipping.
 

They are 39.99 +shipping for all 6 bushings needed for the radius arms directly from ManAFre's eBay store. I'm confused o_O

I called them directly and they confirmed that this pricing was correct. For all 6 control arm bushings. Both myself and the gentleman on the phone were surprised. I won't believe it until they are in physically in my hands :rofl:
 
I called them directly and they confirmed that this pricing was correct. For all 6 control arm bushings. Both myself and the gentleman on the phone were surprised. I won't believe it until they are in physically in my hands :rofl:
Wow for thar price I might pick up a pair. Are they on-par with OEM quality?
 
Wow for thar price I might pick up a pair. Are they on-par with OEM quality?
I will update once I get them in the mail and will post some photos as well. I assume if they are not on par with OEM they are close because ManAFre is a reputable brand.
 
I know once a deal gets posted on mud, typically the deal disappears quickly because mud members are like vultures. Myself included lol
 
Don’t do that. While installing the metal tech plates you removed material that is needed for mine.

Don't the plates need to be welded on anyway or isn't that recommended? If they are welded then they should have plenty of structural rigidity, no?
 
Here are my alignment numbers as of today.
Alignment check was free so that’s pretty cool

Definitely too much castor with the plates and the bushings.

My plan now, is to flip the 2nd bushing in each arm, upside down/ turn 180 degrees. Maybe that will give me enough clearance and reduce the castor a bit. Considering that the icon bushings are rated for 4.6 degrees of correction which is a ton of correction for bushings.
At this point it all about trial and error really.
If flipping the bushing does not work, I will replace the bushings with stock ones.
IF that still doesn’t fix my clearance issue then I will remove the metal techs and get some Land tank 2.5 plates.
If I still have clearance issues after all that, I’ll just drive the 80 into a swamp and leave it for a gator habitat.

View attachment 2288839
Where did you get this done for free? I need to get mine check as well.
 
Where did you get this done for free? I need to get mine check as well.
Did mine at FireStone. They said they normally charge 21.99, but they did mine for free.
 
Don't the plates need to be welded on anyway or isn't that recommended? If they are welded then they should have plenty of structural rigidity, no?

Yes they need to be welded in but that’s not the problem. The metal sleeve of the bushing needs to be clamped between the sides of the axle bracket. That area of the bracket has been removed during the install of the other plates. So the front bushings will move side to side. The only way to correct this is to weld in material where you removed it.

You’ve really have made a mess of things.
 
I respectfully disagree. No real drama here. All the OP needs to do is install factory (or at least factory style) zero offset bushings and keep the metal tech plates, He will be just fine.
 
I bet it drives like a dream with 6* caster :cool: If you're the type of person who doesn't mind doing a job again in 2 years, just plop those man-a-fre bushings in and you should be good to go, or close enough not to bother. OEM bushings are expensive, but they're the only ones proven to last a decade or two.
 
Yes they need to be welded in but that’s not the problem. The metal sleeve of the bushing needs to be clamped between the sides of the axle bracket. That area of the bracket has been removed during the install of the other plates. So the front bushings will move side to side. The only way to correct this is to weld in material where you removed it.

You’ve really have made a mess of things.
I definitely created a problem that I could’ve avoided by installing the plates on top of already having the cc bushings. I don’t think it’s a mess. The only thing I regret now, is that it’ll be a pain in the ass to ever remove the plates and install aftermarket radius arms. That’s probably my biggest regret. I have friends who used to weld for a living and some who still work in shops so I know I can get it fixed. The problem is, nothing is open right now! Don’t have access to the shops in order to undo all this currently.
 
I bet it drives like a dream with 6* caster :cool: If you're the type of person who doesn't mind doing a job again in 2 years, just plop those man-a-fre bushings in and you should be good to go, or close enough not to bother. OEM bushings are expensive, but they're the only ones proven to last a decade or two.
Haha it does drive nice. Only concern I have now is not having access to a hydraulic press. Nothing is currently open for me to do it myself or get it done.
 
Has anyone had success using the C clamp style presses for the radius arm bushings?
 
Old bushings are easy to get out without a press by burning them out and cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw then chiseling it out. Ok, maybe easy isn't the right word, but not press required.

As for getting the new bushings in, I haven't tried it without a press, but I seriously doubt any through-bolt or clamp style tool has enough beans to do the job and keep the bushing aligned while you're cranking it.
 
I definitely created a problem that I could’ve avoided by installing the plates on top of already having the cc bushings. I don’t think it’s a mess. The only thing I regret now, is that it’ll be a pain in the ass to ever remove the plates and install aftermarket radius arms. That’s probably my biggest regret. I have friends who used to weld for a living and some who still work in shops so I know I can get it fixed. The problem is, nothing is open right now! Don’t have access to the shops in order to undo all this currently.
Even the 2.5" landtank plates require you to slot the front of the radius arm bracket, so even if you had used those and decide later to use aftermarket arms, I would think that you would want to weld in patches to cover the slot you created for the LT plates. I know the Metaltech ones have you to lop off the whole bottom of the bracket, but in reality, adding metal and welding patches may be just as easy to cover what you had to do. It's essentially the same job, just more metal.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom