Buyer Advice Needed (2 Viewers)

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Banjo Cruiser

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
16
Location
Cardell, MT
I sold my 94 Cruiser 8 years ago and have had daily regrets and daydreams about getting another one. I recently found a 94, zero rust, 199k miles, good price ($18k). Below is the work that has been done by the current owner. He bought it 2 years ago and just never drives it so getting rid of it (2k miles in the 2 years he's owned it)

My biggest concern is that it hasn't been driven much since it was completed and I'd need to get a flight out and drive it back (roughly a 10 hour drive).

-199k Miles
-Factory triple locked
-No Rust
-Rebuilt Trans (2k miles ago) - Previous owner and has reciepts
-Transfer case sealed
-Head Gasket replaced
-Valve job
-Replaced Waterpump, hoses, radiator replaced
-Replaced alternator
--Replaced power steering pump
-Replaced Brakes/master cylinder
-No cats (but don't need one where I'm at)

He sent some videos of it running, some vapor/water dripping out of the tail pipe right after start, but says no HG issue(replaced less than 2 years ago). No known leaks other than a slight one around the valve cover (he did replace the seal).

I'm worried I'm missing something and just looking for a sanity check. Any advice would be greatly apprecaited.

Here is a video of it running.
 
Nice. Hs a lot going for it.

Buy it, change the engine oil and filter, drive it home.

I don't have a good calibration for prices these days, so can't comment.

It has the pair and Helmholtz box removed (note the odd extra filter off the front of the air box lid) so take that into account if you live in a locality with strict emissions inspections.
 
You'll get 47 opinions but here's few thoughts:

IMHO the price is high for the year (pre-95).

How's the paint condition, peeling clear coat, body damage?

How's the interior, leather ripped, steering wheel need recovering, plastic or dash cracked?

IMO not having OEM quality cats hurts the value even if you don't need them, deduct $1000-4000 from the price because
the original exhaust system was high grade stainless with California/NY approved Cats. Go online and check the price
of two new OEM and/or aftermarket Cali/NY Cats

Who rebuilt the transmission and does it come with a transferable warranty?

Who replaced the head gasket (?someone who's known to do good work)??

Engine sounds good but for that money I'd want a compression test and Blackstone engine oil analysis, maybe also a transmission fluid analysis
since it's been rebuilt (which IME rarely last anywhere near as long as the OEM transmissions).

Sitting two years by itself is nothing to worry about (assuming the head gasket hasn't leaked into a cylinder while it sat).

IME buying a vehicle sight unseen carries high risk as you'll be in a hurry and you won't take the time needed to check it out properly, ask me
how I know.

I hate to say it and generally this doesn't apply to the MUD members, but IME humans are sometimes less then truthful when it comes to selling a vehicle, particularly if it has problems.

And that's the reason you have to get a complete inspection by someone who knows these vehicles very well.
 
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Adding to what CharlieS said:

If you do drive/fly to buy a vehicle you have to drive home, IME don't assume the seller has kept all the service up to date or if it was even done correctly at all.

Check all the fluids and plan to change at least the oil and filter and grease the steering knuckles (at least check the grease level), driveshafts, and U-joints before you drive hundreds of miles home. Pay attention to the differentials and transfer case gear oil levels also.

FWIW: when I purchased my 97 model (100 miles away, I drove a rental one way to pick it up) I noticed a few of the typical squeaks, rumbles and grrrr's as I drove it home. The next few days as I started going over the maintenance I discovered both differentials, the transmission, transfer case gear oil, and PS pump fluid, had likely never been changed, in twenty years. Same for the U-joints and slip yolks, they were dry as a chip and appeared they hadn't been greased since they left the factory (no build up of grease around the joint or slung onto surrounding components). Ditto for the steering knuckles. So in hindsight wish I had at least brought a grease gum. Lucky for me it was only 100 miles but a few years later when I pulled the rear driveshaft I found the U-joints to have some damage which may have been due to never being greased in it's first 20 years of life.
 
Adding to what CharlieS said:

If you do drive/fly to buy a vehicle you have to drive home, IME don't assume the seller has kept all the service up to date or if it was even done correctly at all.

Check all the fluids and plan to change at least the oil and filter and grease the steering knuckles (at least check the grease level), driveshafts, and U-joints before you drive hundreds of miles home. Pay attention to the differentials and transfer case gear oil levels also.

FWIW: when I purchased my 97 model (100 miles away, I drove a rental one way to pick it up) I noticed a few of the typical squeaks, rumbles and grrrr's as I drove it home. The next few days as I started going over the maintenance I discovered both differentials, the transmission, transfer case gear oil, and PS pump fluid, had likely never been changed, in twenty years. Same for the U-joints and slip yolks, they were dry as a chip and appeared they hadn't been greased since they left the factory (no build up of grease around the joint or slung onto surrounding components). Ditto for the steering knuckles. So in hindsight wish I had at least brought a grease gum. Lucky for me it was only 100 miles but a few years later when I pulled the rear driveshaft I found the U-joints to have some damage which may have been due to never being greased in it's first 20 years of life.
Excellent Point! Thank you very much for the feedback.
 
You'll get 47 opinions but here's few thoughts:

IMHO the price is high for the year (pre-95).

How's the paint condition, peeling clear coat, body damage?

How's the interior, leather ripped, steering wheel need recovering, plastic or dash cracked?

IMO not have OEM quality cats hurt the value even if you don't need them, deduct $1000-4000 from the price because
the original exhaust system was high grade stainless with California/NY approved Cats. Go online and check the price
of two new OEM and/or aftermarket Cali/NY Cats

Who rebuilt the transmission and does it come with a transferable warranty?

Who replaced the head gasket (?someone who's known to do good work)??

Engine sounds good but for that money I'd want a compression test and Blackstone engine oil analysis, maybe also a transmission fluid analysis
since it's been rebuilt (which IME rarely last anywhere near as long as the OEM transmissions).

Sitting two years by itself is nothing to worry about (assuming the head gasket hasn't leaked into a cylinder while it sat).

IME buying a vehicle sight unseen carries high risk as you'll be in a hurry and you won't take the time needed to check it out properly, ask me
how I know.

I hate to say it and generally this doesn't apply to the MUD members, but IME humans are sometimes less then truthful when it comes to selling a vehicle, particularly if it has problems.

And that's the reason you have to get a complete inspection by someone who knows these vehicles very well.
Thank you for the feedback. The clearcoat is definitely peeling but its not in terrible shape. Interior is cloth and in pretty decent shape, could use a good cleaning though. No cracked plastic or dash.

Luckly I don't have to worry about emmissions, but its definitely a good consideration for resell value if I do decide to purchase and resell eventually.

HG was replaced by current owner. He restores vehicles (his first landcruiser).

Very great points and I'll definitely ask about the compression test and blackstone oil analysis.

Thank you so much for the feedback!
 
Nice. Hs a lot going for it.

Buy it, change the engine oil and filter, drive it home.

I don't have a good calibration for prices these days, so can't comment.

It has the pair and Helmholtz box removed (note the odd extra filter off the front of the air box lid) so take that into account if you live in a locality with strict emissions inspections.
Thank you for the feedback. Price is a bit high. i was factoring in the price I sold my 100% stock 94 8 years ago ($12k) and he's done a bunch of work with the HG replacement, transmission rebuild and a few other things, but that could definitely go the opposite way if it wasn't a great job. Thank you again!
 
Another consideration for emissions is that he removed the PAIR and relocated the O2 sensors to the manifold. Not sure what he used as block off plates below but could also impact potential resale.

Seems everytime someone posts a thread like this the price is always way to high and this is no exception.
 
Banjo, I am not far from Tacoma and could look at it if you would like. PM me the information and I will see what I can setup.
Definitely appreciate it! Yesterday I reached out to set something up with Greg’s Japanese auto. If something falls through with that I would definitely reach out (and would compensate you if you could do it).
 
Another consideration for emissions is that he removed the PAIR and relocated the O2 sensors to the manifold. Not sure what he used as block off plates below but could also impact potential resale.

Seems everytime someone posts a thread like this the price is always way to high and this is no exception.
That’s another good point. What would you guess it’s worth?
 
I would see if you could arrange a pre purchase inspection somewhere. The couple hundred dollars or less is worthwhile. If I was flying out I would definitely stop somewhere and do full fluids check and maybe change oil etc before departure. If it’s truly rust free then that is a huge benefit but these things hide rust really well especially in rockers, rear 1/4 panel area.
 
I would see if you could arrange a pre purchase inspection somewhere. The couple hundred dollars or less is worthwhile. If I was flying out I would definitely stop somewhere and do full fluids check and maybe change oil etc before departure. If it’s truly rust free then that is a huge benefit but these things hide rust really well especially in rockers, rear 1/4 panel area.
thank you! We are going to set up a pre-purchase inspection before I fly out so more to come.
 
Okay, semi-sarcastic reply. As much as you think it is worth. I spent over a year trying to find mine and worried about price as I was, well poor. That said, the time I spent scouring the net, driving and looking at multiple rigs and haggling didn't get me where I wanted. Finally found this one drove out, got them to knock off 200 bucks and considered it good. The bottom line, time is valuable. Value is in the eye of the beholder. If you like it, it meets your budget number, buy it and be done with it. Life is too short to haggle, unless of course you like to haggle!
 
Definitely appreciate it! Yesterday I reached out to set something up with Greg’s Japanese auto. If something falls through with that I would definitely reach out (and would compensate you if you could do it).
Heck, if they are willing to take it up to Greg's (unless it is their Puyallup location) a little further up the road is TORFAB (LC specialist) and maybe they could could squeeze in a buyers inspection.
 
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Rebuilt Trans and Rebuilt Head Gasket 🤕

Both are Critical and you have no Idea the Quality of the Repair. I'd dig Deeper on both.
Receipts or Talk to person that did them.

Can't Stress enough to have it Inspected - spend a Few $100 to ensure your $1000s
 

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