you will once you take the measurements I suggested and calculate how much lift you have.
Castor/pinion angle question for de-grring
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you will once you take the measurements I suggested and calculate how much lift you have.
I have the delta 6” arms and have 5.25ish inches of front lift. This is why my castor is more like 5*. All you need to do is get the measurement I mentioned in my post from this morning and call Dave at Delta. 208-918-2646 or dave@deltavs.com
FYI- they don’t want to know the distance from hub to fender.
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Ok so a couple of updates:
Got my measurements:
The track bar bolt heights are 22.5” and 17.5”, so a 5” difference. Center of hub to fender flare distance is ~24.5 on all four corners.
Thoughts on which arms I would need with these specs?
Also got the CDL button hooked up, and pulled the front DS. This was definitely the main cause of vibration.
The rear DS is causing some mild vibration too, which I will address with extended lower control arms. I have adjustable upper control arms too, but the rear wheel is obviously not centered in the wheel well. The extended LCAs are supposed to address both issues.
Kind of a frustrating experience trying to measure angles of the front and back of the rear pinion flange. They produce very different readings, probably because the magnets of the angle finder are not grabbing the same on both sides. Any recommendations here?
Got my measurements:
The track bar bolt heights are 22.5” and 17.5”, so a 5” difference. Center of hub to fender flare distance is ~24.5 on all four corners.
Thoughts on which arms I would need with these specs?
Also got the CDL button hooked up, and pulled the front DS. This was definitely the main cause of vibration.
The rear DS is causing some mild vibration too, which I will address with extended lower control arms. I have adjustable upper control arms too, but the rear wheel is obviously not centered in the wheel well. The extended LCAs are supposed to address both issues.
Kind of a frustrating experience trying to measure angles of the front and back of the rear pinion flange. They produce very different readings, probably because the magnets of the angle finder are not grabbing the same on both sides. Any recommendations here?
Also, any tips on torquing the front DS to the transfer case when I reinstall? I was barely able to get the nuts off with a wrench, after turning the shaft into a specific position, but there seemed to be no way to get a socket on any of them.
This is the DS I have for reference:
This is the DS I have for reference:
I'd put your ride height at 4" and there are options other than arms. I don't use arms mainly due to cost, but I'm cheap.
The nuts at the t-case are a PITA, just the way they are.
That drive shaft looks too short to me. Measuring the tube length weld to weld should be @13 1/2". That will give you good spline engagement while allowing proper room for compression.
The nuts at the t-case are a PITA, just the way they are.
That drive shaft looks too short to me. Measuring the tube length weld to weld should be @13 1/2". That will give you good spline engagement while allowing proper room for compression.
A few today’s ago I provided phone number and email address for Delta Vehic Systems in Boise. There is no sense in going backwards by sourcing a set of stock arms and then going with castor plates that, at best will only address castor angle and maybe not enough.
I’m sure delta will suggest a set of 4” arms which will not only address castor but also they will be longer than stock to keep the axle located where it should be. And, if you actually go wheeling where more articulation would be nice to have, their arms are narrower so binding is less of a problem and are also engineered to provide a generous amount of clearance between the tie rod and arm for zero interference. Last I spoke to Dave at delta, they would make you a custom set of arms if you don’t mind waiting.
These arms are not cheap but you do have a set of Slee arms to sell which will offset the cost of correcting your problem.
Thanks. I am just trying to figure out if I need the 2” or the 4” arms. Sounds like it will be the 4”.
Will getting the correct length arms address the front diff pinion angle, as well as the caster?
I know it’s probably a dumb question but first time I am dealing with this stuff so not sure whether the two are interdependent.
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The DS was a bit compressed so I could pull it out. Here it is at expanded length, right before you start seeing splines:
All 80’s are not identical so what I say is meant in a general sense. Buying a set of Delta arms will definitely put you closer to where you need to be, but, in my experience; with your lift height at a very solid 4”, you will be challenged to run a DC shaft smoothly on the highway and also enjoy anything more than bare minimum, if even that, castor angle. This is why I threw in the towel and went part time. I’m done with trying to keep a front driveline happy.
At this point you really need to call Dave at Delta. These guys are real engineers and Landcruiser fans who have compiled a good deal of data and can answer your questions. You already have your track bar mount to floor measurements and pinion flange angle recorded so I’d say you are ready to answer two of his main questions.
so the drive shaft isn't as bad as I thought, it's looks like it's an inch shorter than what I would like. It must be the arms that you have in there.
At 4" plates aren't a step backwards, its a different solution with benefits of it's own.
I would see if you can sell the arms you have first. Going with plates might put some decent money in your pocket.
Once the CDL switch is installed you can drive without the front shaft in place.
At 4" plates aren't a step backwards, its a different solution with benefits of it's own.
I would see if you can sell the arms you have first. Going with plates might put some decent money in your pocket.
Once the CDL switch is installed you can drive without the front shaft in place.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I am with Phil on this one. Why do you want to go backward with caster plates? Put a part time kit in it and be done. Even with a different set of arms, or caster plates there are no guarantees that it will run smooth. You are at approx 4.5" (some variance since we don't have exact measurements for a stock truck).
Your caster is a little over corrected, but it does not mean that if you back caster out, the DC shaft is going to run smooth.
Your caster is a little over corrected, but it does not mean that if you back caster out, the DC shaft is going to run smooth.
Um, yeah
No plans whatsoever to go to caster plates. I bought the truck with caster plates installed, and frankly it is a bandaid solution. I have since replaced my bent axle housing with a brand new unit, and there is no way I am going to hack it up to install plates. The difference in handling after installing the radius arms was night and day. Challenge is, the radius arms I have today are designed for a 6" kit as stated on Slee's website, whereas my lift is measuring at 4 - 4.5" now if I am measuring things correctly.
What I am considering is the Delta radius arms designed for 4" of lift. I am hoping that between getting the caster right, the shorter arms getting the pinion angle closer to where it should be, and a DC shaft I should either eliminate or get close to eliminating the front vibration. I had no noticeable vibrations when I ran the 4" Slee kit (which registered closer to 5" on my truck), so hopefully with the right radius arms I can get it back to vibration free state.
The reason that going part time won't be enough is because I drive to the snow quite a bit in the winter, and drive for long stretches on the freeway in 4WD. So while part time will totally make sense for driving around locally or long road trips, there will be a significant amount of driving in 4WD. Keeping the radius arms I have now and doing part time only will still cause vibration when I need to drive in 4WD.
I am intending to keep the truck forever so want to get this done right for the long term rather than cutting corners now.
I am probably dense or too new... but trying to figure out if the 4" radius arms will help with caster AND pinion angle, or only caster?
What I am considering is the Delta radius arms designed for 4" of lift. I am hoping that between getting the caster right, the shorter arms getting the pinion angle closer to where it should be, and a DC shaft I should either eliminate or get close to eliminating the front vibration. I had no noticeable vibrations when I ran the 4" Slee kit (which registered closer to 5" on my truck), so hopefully with the right radius arms I can get it back to vibration free state.
The reason that going part time won't be enough is because I drive to the snow quite a bit in the winter, and drive for long stretches on the freeway in 4WD. So while part time will totally make sense for driving around locally or long road trips, there will be a significant amount of driving in 4WD. Keeping the radius arms I have now and doing part time only will still cause vibration when I need to drive in 4WD.
I am intending to keep the truck forever so want to get this done right for the long term rather than cutting corners now.
I am probably dense or too new... but trying to figure out if the 4" radius arms will help with caster AND pinion angle, or only caster?
Caster only but when caster changes so does pinion angle. As slee said just because you change arms or anything for that matter you get no guarantee. If you driveline is over 1° off coming off your diff it is running elliptical causing vibration no matter whos driveline.
Understood, thanks for confirming that. Is it fair to say shorter arms would cause less vibration, rather than eliminate it altogether?
Assuming most folks are running a 3"+ lift, does everyone have some sort of vibration in their driveline? And the only reliable fix is going part time?
Landcruiser’s are a lot like women; no two are exactly alike and eventually they all demand commitment moving forward.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The length of the arm has nothing to do with caster. The design of the arm does.
And all require an ongoing investment to be happy...
My bad, Christo, that is what I meant. Arms designed for 4" rather than a 6" lift.
