Caster Plate Install (read if you are going WTF and yelling) (1 Viewer)

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Feb 20, 2010
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Arizona
I just finished my caster plate install and I think it pissed me off more than anything I've encountered yet on the cruiser, even counting the partial rebuild I recently finished.

I read the Slee instructions and also searched the forums and read probably 15 threads but I still was not able to get this figured out. I didn't take photos of the install process, but I figured I would post this to help a poor soul like myself who may have trouble and finds this thread in the future.

First, my setup is J springs with L shocks and 2" Metaltech spacers.

When you start, make sure the truck is of course supported properly and all that stuff. Here's my jack setup.

Jacked up the truck with 2 hydraulic jacks under the axle. Removed the front wheels and stuck them under my sliders with wooden planks. Placed 3 ton jack stands under the frame directly behind the FRONT control arm REAR mounting bracket. Then stuck an additional jack stand under a slider and stuck my hi-lift on the other slider. You can never be too careful.

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Now at this point, I just followed the Slee instructions at the following link:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/installation/FZJ80CasterPlate.pdf

After doing all the cutting/grinding of the axle bracket and trying to bolt everything up, the only bolt hole I could line up properly was the very front control arm bolt through the bottom hole of the caster plates.

I put those in and then tried every combination possible of jacking up the axle, trying to yank it around different directions without any luck. Here's where I got really frustrated and read the instructions over and over along with many forum threads.

***Here's what I ended up doing to make this work.***

So at this point, you should have the truck all jacked up and the axle brackets cut for the plates. The two front control arm bolts should be removed and the rear nut should be loosened (meaning the nut at the rear mounting location of the control arm where your jack stand is) per the Slee instructions.

First, I disconnected the sway bar and the bottom part of both shocks. This allows the axle to basically hang by the brake lines it seems, so be careful and make sure it's supported.

Then, I completely removed the bolt on the REAR of the control arm. This makes it so you can just take the whole control arm out. Make sure it doesn't fall on you.

Then I bolted up the control arm to the caster plates in the front. So, everything was bolted up except the rears of the control arms.

Then, on the driver side, I was able to push the control arm into position with my hands, while my dad tapped the bolt through.

On the passenger side, the holes didn't line up so nicely, so it required me pushing the axle with my legs while my dad tapped the bolt through with a mallet. Be careful not to kick the truck over of course, if it's possible. If you have a ratcheting strap, it would be really easy to pull the axle into place with it at this point, but oddly enough neither of us have one.

I dunno the best/easiest way to do this install, but from the threads I read, it seemed like no one had the heat generating frustrating time that we did. I hope someone finds this information helpful some day.

Now for a beer!
 
Using ratchet straps makes things easier
Plus also using a big screw drive to stick into the bolt on one side and prying on it to line up the holes and sticking the bolt in from the other side also really helps smooth things out

I did my plates with the tires still on and the truck still on the ground
 
Using ratchet straps makes things easier
Plus also using a big screw drive to stick into the bolt on one side and prying on it to line up the holes and sticking the bolt in from the other side also really helps smooth things out

I did my plates with the tires still on and the truck still on the ground

thats what I'm gonna try first, thanks.
 
Don't want to hijack but I just did this the other night & I thought this might help others who do this in the future to not get frustrated.

I found it helpful to use a "come-a-long" to shift the axle housing and control arms in order to align the bolt holes.

I too could only bolt up the forward portion of the lower control arm. ( I used Landtanks plates though). At that point the, the pinion needs to be rotated up so that the 2nd, rear bolt, can be bolted to the axle bracket. This was accomplished by routing the "come along" cable from the front, over the diff and under the rear output and back over the top. Hook the other end to a recovery point and crank away. As you do, the holes will line up.

Now that the front is bolted up, the rear frame attachment is several inches forward of its required position. Move the "come along" to pull the front diff aft. I hooked one end to the cross member and the other wrapped around the center of front axle housing.

Keep in mind that I had both front wheels ON, the rear wheels chocked, the frame supported with jack stands and Neutral selected on the TC and Trans. This method was super easy, quick and also helped when installing longer rear lower control arms.

Hope this helps someone. Hijack over.
 
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Yup, straps! Made it painless....Feels good to do it yourself though doesn't it? :)

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How much lift is the j springs?

OME 850J are 3.5" lift springs iirc.

Don't want to hijack...

Please by all means. I'm sure if anyone in the future has trouble and stumbles across this thread, they will appreciate your (and anyone else's) insight.

Off topic - did you paint your factory wheels black?

I had them powdercoated.

Yup, straps! Made it painless....Feels good to do it yourself though doesn't it? :)

Yup! Good sense of accomplishment from working so much on this truck. :)

I bet it would have been worth the trip to Home Depot to get some straps, but oh well, it's done. Next time though... :D
 
I put the control arms back without using any jackstands, strap, nor needing to lift the vehicle.

** Install the axle side of the control arm bolts (2x bolt) FIRST **

This is most important, opposite of Slee's and the youtube guy's instruction. Aligning one hole on frame side is much easier than aligning 2 holes on the axle side, plus you have the entire control arm length for leverage.

Now the front axle has moved ~1 1/4" forward. Look for a notch on box frame above the axle, about 6-9" behind front bumper, use the LC bottle jack push that notch against the axle (resting the bottle jack flat on axle housing), until the rear control arm hole aligns to the frame hole. Done!

I also found not choking the front wheel works even better. The natural position of corrected caster aligns (vertical only) the control arms with frame bracket.
 
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When you refer to 2" spacers. Do you mean coil spacers?

Yes.

I put the control arms back without using any jackstands, strap, nor needing to lift the vehicle.

** Install the axle side of the control arm bolts (2x bolt) FIRST **

This is most important, opposite of Slee's and the youtube guy's instruction. Aligning one hole on frame side is much easier than aligning 2 holes, plus you have the entire control arm length for leverage.

Now the front axle has moved ~1 1/4" forward. Look for a notch on box frame above the axle, about 6-9" behind front bumper, use the LC bottle jack push that notch against the axle (resting the bottle jack flat on axle housing), until the rear control arm hole aligns to the frame hole. Done!
I also found not choking the front wheel works even better.

Great info! :)
 
Caster plates won't cover a 5.5" lift. You will be sitting between 0 and +1'. :(
 
Caster plates won't cover a 5.5" lift. You will be sitting between 0 and +1'. :(

Wondering if this will cause a front drive shaft vibration?
 
Any lift will cause front drive shaft vibrations. The more lift, the more vibrations. In factory form its closer to a broken back set up (pinion pointing fairly close to trans output flange centre) than a parallel flange set up (output and trans flange parallel, both uni's at the same angle like the rear). So by lifting it and keeping caster correct. It starts to point further and further below the output flange centre. It's a no win situation. Caster is WAY more important than drive shaft angle. Part time is the only way to stop it. Or full custom housing.
 
Mine has some major vibration now (didn't seem to exist with my previous 2.5" lift and no caster correction). Based on the threads I've read, it seems like it can be corrected with a front DC drive shaft.

Not sure what my caster is at the moment. I will measure as soon as I learn how (I'm a noob).
 
It can't be corrected with a dc shaft. It will reduce it. But then your uni's wear out real fast with a dc. With no caster correction. It doesn't matter what your lift height is as it will always point your pinion close to the output flange. But caster is way more important. Buy a part time.

Ps. Take it to a wheel alignment shop.
 
It can't be corrected with a dc shaft. It will reduce it. But then your uni's wear out real fast with a dc. With no caster correction. It doesn't matter what your lift height is as it will always point your pinion close to the output flange. But caster is way more important. Buy a part time.

Ps. Take it to a wheel alignment shop.

What he said^^^^
 

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