Carb ID - Weber… I think? (1 Viewer)

[DesertDonkey]

First off, a sincere thank you to everone on this forum for the warm welcome and responses to my posts. I’m digging in and learning a ton, and I hope to contribute more along the way.

I’ve had my ‘76 almost a month and I’ve gone over the ignition system, discovered a faulty coil, replaced plugs and am now setting my sites on the carb. My 40 has been running great warm but I noticed it really struggles idling cold. Upon further inspection, the electric choke does not appear to be functioning. The carb looks like a Weber, but I can’t find a brand or part number anywhere on the body or casting. Is there a way to verify/authenticate what I have? It runs and drives right now, but I’d love to get it really dialed in. If this carb is an EBay special, I’ll happily punt it and start over.

Also - the throttle is cable driven. Looking at other parts, it seems like the ‘76 originally had a rod driven carb and gas pedal, so this may have been swapped somewhere along the way. I’m not looking for a concourse restoration or anything, just piecing together the history here.

 

[whitey45]

Yes weber, some like them, most hate them! Looks new? Is the choke working and adjusted correctly?

 

[JohnnyC]

Technically it’s a Chinese clone of a weber 38/38 synchronized carb … most people call that type of weber the 38dgas

 

[JohnnyC]

ohhh and btw I’m also in the camp of ‘like it’ as I’ve been running my weber for 28+ years it is however a weber and not a clone … jury is still out on the ccp copies

 

[whitey45]

Have run them as well and never had problems,its not always the carb, many other things to cause an engine to run bad!

 

[JohnnyC]

make sure the wire to the choke is 12v when the key is on… not power on constant

When u depress the throttle when cold the choke should shut and it gets bumped up in throttle

When u tap the pedal it will disengage the choke high idle

Electric choke works great when it’s set and you understand how it functions

Most people buy the cheap manual choke conversion from autozone or the like and convert your DGES to a DGS then you can use your stock choke cable instead of the cable from the kit

Dorman most likely makes it

 

[120mm]

make sure the wire to the choke is 12v when the key is on… not power on constant

When u depress the throttle when cold the choke should shut and it gets bumped up in throttle

When u tap the pedal it will disengage the choke high idle

Electric choke works great when it’s set and you understand how it functions

Most people buy the cheap manual choke conversion from autozone or the like and convert your DGES to a DGS then you can use your stock choke cable instead of the cable from the kit

Dorman most likely makes it

I just got my 38dgas carbed 2F running, and I'm also in the "Like it" crowd, in my limited experience. Learning how to set that choke was easy peasy once it was demonstrated to me.

A mechanic I trust also told me to put a cheap fuel regulator on it and mine runs great set at 3 psi.

 

[DesertDonkey]

Awesome advice all around - thanks all! I suspected it was a clone and the lacking of branding anywhere on the casting seems to confirm it. I don't believe that the automatic choke is working at all right now, I'll test voltage and confirm. Has anyone had great luck running one of these clones? I'm not opposed to replacing it for the genuine article if improves my odds of a working carburator.

 

[1969FJ]

Technically it’s a Chinese clone of a weber 38/38 synchronized carb … most people call that type of weber the 38dgas

How can you tell it is a clone ? Looks like Weber to me.

 

[JohnnyC]

Lots of reasons… to name a few… no weber embossed logo on the top plate … nor serial number stamp… certified weber dealers have a tag on the first bolt near the fuel inlet

They do not come shiny… they are a dull metal

 

[1969FJ]

Lots of reasons… to name a few… no weber embossed logo on the top plate … nor serial number stamp… certified weber dealers have a tag on the first bolt near the fuel inlet

They do not come shiny… they are a dull metal

Thanks, never knew that.

 

[DesertDonkey]

ohhh and btw I’m also in the camp of ‘like it’ as I’ve been running my weber for 28+ years it is however a weber and not a clone … jury is still out on the ccp copies

JohnnyC - what setup are you running for fuel delivery? Stock pump? Electric pump with regulator? Return lines to tank? PO set mine up with an electric pump feeding into the mechanical pump into a pressure regulator with no return. Outside of the choke issue, it's running very rich and I suspect the cheapo regulator is sending too much fuel. My temptation is to tear all this junk off and start over from the pump forward, but there seems to be a lot of conflicting wisdom out there it terms of which setup works well.

Anyone have experience with tpi4x4.com?

Looks like they have a real Weber kit and a recommended pump with no regulator:

K38MM, FJ40 FJ60 WEBER 38MM CARB KIT

K38MM, WEBER CARBURETOR KIT, 38MM, FJ40/55/60 Order Here All Models FJ40/55/60 Requires Accelerator Cable. Order Here #K38CA 1973-83 FJ40 Requires Accelerator Pedal. Order Here #K38PA TPI Land Cruiser 38mm Weber Performance Carb. Almost

tpi4x4.com

 

[JohnnyC]

I use a cheap box pump and the cheap regulator … I did the electric pump and block off plate on where the mechanical was

The Chinese carbs are notorious for metal shavings in the carb bowl … mostly on the toyota copy carbs

I am wondering what size jets are in that ccp carb

Most weber dealers preset the carb for the application then they get tagged so they know

I have a weber adjustment thread that may be a good read for ya on mud here someplace

 

[DesertDonkey]

Following up: I removed the Chinese Weber clone and replaced it with the real deal Weber carb. I also reran the fuel line to go from the electric pump to the regulator (it had previously been connected to a mechanical pump inline with the electric). I removed the mechanical pump and installed a block-off plate.

Night and day difference. In addition to a functioning choke, my LC cold starts, idles and runs sooo much better. I also discovered a few other shortcuts taken previously regarding venting and vacuum plugs that I was able to correct. It’s a different truck.

Now I just need to make up some more excuses to go drive it around.

The photo shows the real Weber carb, which is identical to the knock-off except for the color of the metal and casting stamps from Weber (exactly what JohnnyC mentioned above).The spacers and gaskets included were higher quality, but identical in shape.

Thanks for the advice everyone, I’m learning a ton on here.

 

[JohnnyC]

dont forget to oil the fiber air filter... it will become brittle and start deteriorating

get the kit while your at it for the cleaner as well.... once a year clean let dry and re-oil

Amazon product ASIN B00029WYEY

 

[graham5david]

Webers run at like 3 to 5 psi. Make sure you add a fuel pump pressure regulator in line between the pump and the carb. Without it is almost impossible to tune. Go to reblineweber website. They have all the tuning instructions

 

[DesertDonkey]

Webers run at like 3 to 5 psi. Make sure you add a fuel pump pressure regulator in line between the pump and the carb. Without it is almost impossible to tune. Go to reblineweber website. They have all the tuning instructions

Thanks, I appreciate it! I do have a regulator and gauge on there - you can just see the top of it left of the oil filler cap. It's getting a steady 3 PSI.

 

[DesertDonkey]

dont forget to oil the fiber air filter... it will become brittle and start deteriorating

get the kit while your at it for the cleaner as well.... once a year clean let dry and re-oil

Amazon product ASIN B00029WYEY

Great tip! I had the K&N kit here from another vehicle, I just gave it a fresh oil after reading this.