Can't undo the front diff drain plug..fml.

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There are numerous methods of dealing with this problem each has it's own risk factor. OP will have to make the end choice, hopefully with success. Don't forget the crush washer either!
 
I've been working steel on and off for 20 years, 5 years in an actual machine shop. I couldn't get my plug to rotate with a chisel even after grinding a notch in it for purchase.. it wasn't turning without going ape**** on it.. and I really didn't want to damage the diff housing.

Sold my welder too, unfortunately. A shop had it out in 5 mins.

If you explicitly tell a shop to weld a nut to it, that is what they will do.

I've been wondering if hammering firmly in a circle around the edge will compress the copper gasket enough to let go.. but haven't had a rig to try this on. Mine has the updated 14mm external hex plug.
 
My experience was hammer and chisel didn’t work. Pounding in various star or torx bits didn’t work. Welding on a nut did. And when it finally loosened it wasn’t that tight . . .
 
RET2 said:
Sometimes the heat from the welding helps?
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I’m convinced that is the main reason it works so well.

When I did the LS3 swap into my 80 I broke an exhaust manifold bolt off in the head. Apparently it happens all the time. I then tried to drill it but broke off a bolt extractor inside that. I was pretty sure I was going to have to pull the head. Turns out tack welding a washer to the broken bolt then a nut to that had it out super easy. I used the same process to extract a broken stud from the exhaust manifold on my 1FZ-FE.

After those I’m totally sold on using a welder to remove broken/difficult bolts/studs/plugs. It really is shocking how easy it gets those things to move. (No pun intended)

And before people say just use a torch to accomplish the same thing.. I tried that. Map gas anyway.. maybe a rosette tip on oxy/acetylene would work better.. but something special seems to happen when the focused heat of welding hits those parts.
 
bloc said:
I’m convinced that is the main reason it works so well.

When I did the LS3 swap into my 80 I broke an exhaust manifold bolt off in the head. Apparently it happens all the time. I then tried to drill it but broke off a bolt extractor inside that. I was pretty sure I was going to have to pull the head. Turns out tack welding a washer to the broken bolt then a nut to that had it out super easy. I used the same process to extract a broken stud from the exhaust manifold on my 1FZ-FE.

After those I’m totally sold on using a welder to remove broken/difficult bolts/studs/plugs. It really is shocking how easy it gets those things to move. (No pun intended)

And before people say just use a torch to accomplish the same thing.. I tried that. Map gas anyway.. maybe a rosette tip on oxy/acetylene would work better.. but something special seems to happen when the focused heat of welding hits those parts.
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Absolutely. Pulled a few busted studs from my L92 heads using the welder. Most were flush with the surface. Less than a minute per stud with the cheapo Lincoln 140, all fixed.
I can't imagine fussing with a drill and extractor again.
 
I’m on one of the other threads about this. Was it stripped before you started? Mine was I’m betting the dealer strippednit at 30k miles on mine. Anyway, when I got a new replacement in heated it with a tour he then pounded the biggest Torx bit in I could fit. Then used a 4’ breaker bar. I pulled the bar and a buddy used a pry bar against the head of the breaker to keep the torx in the hole. If that didn’t work I would have welded a bolt on.
 
But welding is so easy? That being said any bets on how long before someone screws up the T-case it's self by welding?
 
the shop did not want to weld because they could potentially damage something. They got the bolt out in like 5 min and changed my fluid for me with the synthetic redline i supplied and the new 14mm drain plug for $100. Next time I won't have this issue
 
I replaced my drain plugs with the hex bolts to make the socket fit easier

If I were in your situation, I would get a brake bleeder, hook it up to a compressor and suck out the old fluid through the fill port. Move the hose around until you get the specified fill level. Then I would fill it and go. What you would be missing is any metal flakes that collect on the drain plug. This gives you time to contemplate, drive your vehicle and not do anything crazy. Next time you have it in a shop for any work, you can ask them to get it off and refill

Heck, I don't want to take off my skid plate to drain it and have been debating on doing just that. Not the 100% correct way, but the key is to have fresh fluid in there to protect the gears
 
BTW this is what I was talking about for hex plugs. First change on my diffs and tcase I swapped these out
90341-18021-jpg.791532
 
It was not stripped. But I used my entire body weight and about a 36" breaker bar and it didnt move. Prob used impact on it and it was insane tight.

coleAK said:
I’m on one of the other threads about this. Was it stripped before you started? Mine was I’m betting the dealer strippednit at 30k miles on mine. Anyway, when I got a new replacement in heated it with a tour he then pounded the biggest Torx bit in I could fit. Then used a 4’ breaker bar. I pulled the bar and a buddy used a pry bar against the head of the breaker to keep the torx in the hole. If that didn’t work I would have welded a bolt on.
Click to expand...
 
pizdets17 said:
i swapped it for this oneView attachment 1958913
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Perfect. I missed your post about the shop fixing before my post. I'll leave it there in case others need it. You did the right thing going to a shop and replacing the plug. They have the right tools and leverage with a lift
 
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