Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

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Exhaust EGR pipe most likely. It has a two studs w/ nuts holding the gasket on once either that far end of pipe is reconnected or a block off plate from Jim or MAF is applied. Burns out after years. Heat riser pivot flap is on the fan side.
I’m surprised you’ve not taken the manifolds off w/ all the work you did a few years back?
Again surprised you didn’t have all that removed or are you still smogged? I have pictures but on my desk top, lmk if you need something. Fairly sure too that if you can hear a tick, it isn’t simply the donut gasket.
Have you tried carb spray around the manifold gasket to source a leak?
 
It's completely desmogged. This leak has only started recently, I've put 15,000 miles since I had it off last that were issue free.

I've been lucky not getting dirty recently with it, I need to crawl under there while it warms up.
 
This is the exhaust section of the EGR that I am talking about. If your desmogged then you have a blockoff plate here with a gasket. Maybe you simply need to tighten down the nuts.

IMG_3687.webp
 
I feel it right next to the manifold outlet with my hand while it warms up.

Im traveling at the moment and not by the truck, but while it sits for the next three weeks I'll be dreaming of stuff to fix on it.
 
The flange of the downpipe distorts at the 3 bolt holes, over years of being very hot. To correct this, use a 4-1/2" grinder and work the bolt holes down until the whole flange is roughly flat.

Here's one that's just been grindered down at the bowed-up bolt holes:
IMG_20180527_134122.webp
 
After replacing my Exhaust gasket 3 times i found that it was the gasket between the intake and the exhaust manifolds. i made my own block off plate and reversed the spring so the flapper stays open. As living in Southern California it doesn't get that cold that i need to heat up my intake. Quiet the opposite. But after 16 hours of putting it back together it's still leaking...Yeah i'm ticked! any suggestions? Please ?!!!!
 
between the manifolds, when i separated the two the gasket was blown out by 1" . i installed the Remflex gasket hoping it would fill in the gap. But the ticking noise continues...
Cruiser Exhaust Gasket.webp
 
If that is how it is setup now, the heat flapper is in the cold start "shove all the exhaust up through the bottom of the intake" position. If there is a flat blockoff plate on top of the exhaust, the flapper can't move to the hot position, so the exhaust is gonna be piled up in the manifold, overheating the manifold and trying to blow out any gasket it can find.

There is a strong, punched foil gasket that works better than the soft & weak Remflex gasket. It comes with the FelPro Graphlex manifold gasket.
 
FWIW, if your downpipe flange is really buggered, or you're making or having made new exhaust pipes - there's an ebay seller who has them for $18

LINK

s-l1600.jpg
 
If my flange is floating and not welded on the original pipe, should I be able to slip it up over the end of the pipe and do the reverse with one of the new flanges?

It may be simpler to cut the pipe on a straight section by the cat, cut the air injection pipe and patch that then slip the new flange back up top and torque it all back down.
 
I think I'm about to to jump into this. Exhaust leak appears to be coming from the manifold area closest to the firewall. Re-torquing bolts didn't work.
Sounds like everything has to come off that side of the engine....

Replaced Jtube gasket a couple of years ago and that's not leaking.

Questions:
  1. If the horns aren't leaking, and where the intake connects to the exhaust isn't leaking. Is there any harm in leaving it all together?
  2. Should I try a double gasket with either felpro or remflex first before getting manifold resurfaced or just bite the bullet, pull the manifold and get it resurfaced?
  3. I can see what appears to be a very small crack on the exhaust manifold, that does not appear to be related to the leak. Get that fixed right now as well? If os, that would of course lead me to pulling the manifold getting it resurfaced, etc...
I'm leaning towards pulling it out and doing it right... tired of half-assing stuff and I expect to have this rig forever. Just need some encouragment (and a line on a good machine shop in SWCO / 4corners) that could do the resurfacing/repairing of my manifold.
 
Spike Strip said:
New linky on ebay for exhaust flange.

www.ebay.com

GBE "FITS" TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 2F ENGINE STEEL EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE-LASER CUT | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for GBE "FITS" TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 2F ENGINE STEEL EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE-LASER CUT at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

Seller: GBE MANDREL BENDING INC. | eBay Stores

And from their website: NEED MANDREL BENDS? NEED THEM FAST? WE SHIP DAILY
Click to expand...


I've been using one for about 20,000 miles. I really like it. No more leaks between that and new OEM hardware on the manifold.
 
Rusto said:
I think I'm about to to jump into this. Exhaust leak appears to be coming from the manifold area closest to the firewall. Re-torquing bolts didn't work.
Sounds like everything has to come off that side of the engine....

Replaced Jtube gasket a couple of years ago and that's not leaking.

Questions:
  1. If the horns aren't leaking, and where the intake connects to the exhaust isn't leaking. Is there any harm in leaving it all together?
  2. Should I try a double gasket with either felpro or remflex first before getting manifold resurfaced or just bite the bullet, pull the manifold and get it resurfaced?
  3. I can see what appears to be a very small crack on the exhaust manifold, that does not appear to be related to the leak. Get that fixed right now as well? If os, that would of course lead me to pulling the manifold getting it resurfaced, etc...
I'm leaning towards pulling it out and doing it right... tired of half-assing stuff and I expect to have this rig forever. Just need some encouragment (and a line on a good machine shop in SWCO / 4corners) that could do the resurfacing/repairing of my manifold.
Click to expand...
It's a pain, but pulling the manifold and checking that it is within spec for flatness is really your first step.

Hopefully it is. In that case no need to hunt down a machinist that won't balk at the three piece exhaust.

I like remflex but many don't. Double felpro is even less popular.
 
The manifold assembly is guaranteed to be warped. There's two choices: slap a thick soft gasket in there and replace it every couple years when a leak inevitably develops, or have a machine shop that's worked on these before shave it flat and be done with it. After you've had the manifold off 3-4 times it'll become as challenging as an oil change
 
Thanks @OSS. I'm asking the Derailed Cruiser club here in SWCO for recommended machinist. Thoughts on leaving it all together, including horns?
 
It needs to be machined as an assembled unit after the internal gaskets have been replaced. Machining is the last step and it shouldn't be taken apart afterwards.
 
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