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Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by Zack1978, Jun 9, 2008.

  1. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

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    Hi everyone,
    The exhaust manifold is leaking on my 87 fj-60 and it needs to be resealed/repaired. I have searched many of the threads here and there seems to be conflicting ideas as to how to fix it. So can we make the ultimate exhaust/intake manifold thread (sticky) where every idea is discussed, and debated? Also can we make a complete listing of the steps involved in the process of the manifold(s) repairs? Even if we merge a few older threads?

    Some of my questions are:

    1. Double gastket or single?
    2. OEM Toyota gasket or Fel-Pro?
    3. Bolts/nuts to use?
    4. Should the Manifolds be resurfaced?
    5. Should they be seperated while doing the repair, and is there a gasket between the exhaust and intake?
    6. What are some other important steps to take to ensure that it will almost be a "forever" fix?
    7. I am not going to do this job myself, so it would be great if I could help my mechanic out.
    8. Should I purchase a used a exhaust/intake manifold from cruiserparts.net for $250.00, they claim that they have never been seperated.

    Thanks everyoone,

    Zack
     
  2. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

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    1- Single gasket, making sure the mating surface is flat.

    2 - The Cruiser Gods rec Fel-Pro

    3 - Buy new ones from Dealer/SOR

    4 - I had my manifold combo resurfaced by machinist. Must be bolted together
    to do so. I also had the mating surface where the heat riser goes cleaned up.

    5- Yes, there is a gasket (insulator) between the exhaust and the intake. Combo must be together when servicing (machining)

    6- "Forever Fix" -- Buy a new combo $550 from CDan (or so) 'bout as close to forever as you're gonna
    get.

    7- If you need to help your mechanic out, find a new mechanic who knows 2F motors (just my .02)

    8 - That's up to you depending on the cond of your current ex/in combo. I spent about $200 on mine
    getting it ready to go... I should have bought a new set, but I didn't know they were avail at the time.
    manif0001.jpg manif0001_1.jpg
     
    Jaric00n likes this.
  3. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Wow, talk about pretty.

    I've done it twice, once with headers instead of the exhaust manifold. I've been told / heard that the original F manifold gasket is better than the 2f model and the fel pro model because it has more crush rings. I've had good experience with the fel pro but having a look at the original F gasket would be worth it.

    No need to buy new nuts + bolts, just use blue loc-tite on them when you torque them down.

    Check to see how true the manifolds are with a known flat bar or level, and if they are warped, then resurface.

    Make sure you know the torque pattern and torque to 50 ft/lbs.

    On my truck, I didn't have to replace the manifolds until 230k, so if you are planning on having this truck with that engine for that many more miles, then you'll just have to suck it up and change them again! I don't believe that there is a "forever" fix, unless 200k is forever for you.

    I'm happy with how mine turned out!
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2013
  4. PAFJ

    PAFJ

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    The F style gaskets are good w/ headers because the chance of a leak developing between the mounting flange and the pipe... not an issue with stock manifold. Felpro is the best gasket you can use w/ the stock manifold. Unfortunately they do not make a F style gasket. I run two of the gaskets below (middle one) from MAF w/ my header. The top one is no longer available. No issues so far.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. JLH911

    JLH911

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    I'm about 80% complete on doing this job(and other things that were easy to do). I'm using a single Fel-Pro. I had the two pieces re-surfaced as one piece and in taking it apart after, the metal diverter baffle gets torn up so you'll probably need a new one.

    Call Cruiser Dan for all the parts except the Fel-Pro gasket. I even got all new bolts and nuts from him.

    I had the parts bead blasted and then used an air hose to get all the abrasive media out. I also painted my pieces with some high heat paint just to add some flair. I don't know if it'll last.

    get all new gaskets and follow the torque sequence. It's a bear of a job, but next time, I'll know what I'm up against.

    You sure get to know the truck a lot better.

    Here's a picture of some of the components partially assembled loosely.
    intakeexhuastmani.jpg
     
  6. macneill

    macneill Rollin’ on 33s

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    What about a MAF header?

    Just my .02.
     
  7. Joe_E

    Joe_E

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    Dang Spike Strip that puppy is looking good! I hope to have a similar picture to share over the winter.
    I plan on redoing everything like that back to OEM.

    For the life of me though , I don't remember having that rear insulator on my 87's manifold like JLH911's pic. :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2008
  8. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I'm running the MAF header, new style one piece design. I love it.:cheers:
     
  9. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

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    Thanks, Joe -E ...

    It's common for those insulators to be missing. They're just aluminiumized, Tin sheets. They're avail from the dealer, but $$. You can find 'em used, here on MUD and just paint them. Kind of important, I think, to shield various components from the exhaust furnace.

    JLH -- Looks good! Now paint that EGR Cooler, too!

    I used POR 15 manifold stuff -- It's in the pic.

    S.
     
  10. macneill

    macneill Rollin’ on 33s

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    Me too. Love that thing.

     
  11. JLH911

    JLH911

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    Yeah, that rear Heat Insulator was hard to get off but I'm going to use whatever heat shielding I can use...ever notice how brittle hoses and stuff are on the manifold side? all that heat is hell for the various components.

    I will paint the EGR cooler. I wasn't going to, but I have some extra paint.
     
  12. pismojim

    pismojim the Dude abides...

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    Bought the brand new OEM Exhaust/Intake about $525 w/ discount, No regrets. When you receive the brand new factory fresh E/I manifold (assembled, ready to install) with brand new and functional heat riser you with not regret it. Maybe it was the intoxicating smell of the brand new aluminum and cast iron freshly coated with clean machine oil. In any case, the brand new set-up is sweet and effective. A new EGR tube (doubke gasket?) and you're good to go for another 200K,


    Call Cdan if you don't have a local hook-up.

    No regrets,
     
  13. Joe_E

    Joe_E

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    Yeah I hear ya. That's my next purchase. After further deliberating while working on mine I decided to just get a new one. It was also leaking around the heat riser plate shaft and I didn't want to get involved in that as well.
     
  14. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

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    However is it true that the MAF header will NOT bolt up to the stock down pipe? I would hate to get involved in welding pipes, etc.


    Zack
     
  15. Dave-T

    Dave-T

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    I know of no header that will work with the stock downpipe.

    It is a quick and easy job for a muffler shop to fix though.
     
  16. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

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    Does anyone have a pic or part number for the heat insulator that has been spoken about a few times here?

    Also when pulling this apart, what should we do about the EGR pipe? Should it be replaced, and how many gaskets does it entail.?

    And I guess the general feeling is to use a single fel-pro gasket.


    Zack
     
  17. hank14

    hank14

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    What is the Toyota part number for the EGR Gasket?
     
  18. mp_cude

    mp_cude

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    What about the surface on the head....and anybody know the torque sequence
     
  19. goodol84

    goodol84

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    is 50ft. lbs too much for a torque spec.???? i thought my manual said 29-36??? same manual with the torque sequence. BTW i think it starts in the middle and works outwards.
     
  20. goodol84

    goodol84

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    surface of the head should be checked for warpage as well. also i used the fel-pro kit which comes with the 2-gaskets that go between the manifolds as well as the main manifold gasket.