Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

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Oct 12, 2004
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Hi everyone,
The exhaust manifold is leaking on my 87 fj-60 and it needs to be resealed/repaired. I have searched many of the threads here and there seems to be conflicting ideas as to how to fix it. So can we make the ultimate exhaust/intake manifold thread (sticky) where every idea is discussed, and debated? Also can we make a complete listing of the steps involved in the process of the manifold(s) repairs? Even if we merge a few older threads?

Some of my questions are:

1. Double gastket or single?
2. OEM Toyota gasket or Fel-Pro?
3. Bolts/nuts to use?
4. Should the Manifolds be resurfaced?
5. Should they be seperated while doing the repair, and is there a gasket between the exhaust and intake?
6. What are some other important steps to take to ensure that it will almost be a "forever" fix?
7. I am not going to do this job myself, so it would be great if I could help my mechanic out.
8. Should I purchase a used a exhaust/intake manifold from cruiserparts.net for $250.00, they claim that they have never been seperated.

Thanks everyoone,

Zack
 

Spike Strip

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1- Single gasket, making sure the mating surface is flat.

2 - The Cruiser Gods rec Fel-Pro

3 - Buy new ones from Dealer/SOR

4 - I had my manifold combo resurfaced by machinist. Must be bolted together
to do so. I also had the mating surface where the heat riser goes cleaned up.

5- Yes, there is a gasket (insulator) between the exhaust and the intake. Combo must be together when servicing (machining)

6- "Forever Fix" -- Buy a new combo $550 from CDan (or so) 'bout as close to forever as you're gonna
get.

7- If you need to help your mechanic out, find a new mechanic who knows 2F motors (just my .02)

8 - That's up to you depending on the cond of your current ex/in combo. I spent about $200 on mine
getting it ready to go... I should have bought a new set, but I didn't know they were avail at the time.
manif0001.jpg
manif0001_1.jpg
 

GLTHFJ60

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Wow, talk about pretty.

I've done it twice, once with headers instead of the exhaust manifold. I've been told / heard that the original F manifold gasket is better than the 2f model and the fel pro model because it has more crush rings. I've had good experience with the fel pro but having a look at the original F gasket would be worth it.

No need to buy new nuts + bolts, just use blue loc-tite on them when you torque them down.

Check to see how true the manifolds are with a known flat bar or level, and if they are warped, then resurface.

Make sure you know the torque pattern and torque to 50 ft/lbs.

On my truck, I didn't have to replace the manifolds until 230k, so if you are planning on having this truck with that engine for that many more miles, then you'll just have to suck it up and change them again! I don't believe that there is a "forever" fix, unless 200k is forever for you.

I'm happy with how mine turned out!
 
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The F style gaskets are good w/ headers because the chance of a leak developing between the mounting flange and the pipe... not an issue with stock manifold. Felpro is the best gasket you can use w/ the stock manifold. Unfortunately they do not make a F style gasket. I run two of the gaskets below (middle one) from MAF w/ my header. The top one is no longer available. No issues so far.

17172.jpg
 
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I'm about 80% complete on doing this job(and other things that were easy to do). I'm using a single Fel-Pro. I had the two pieces re-surfaced as one piece and in taking it apart after, the metal diverter baffle gets torn up so you'll probably need a new one.

Call Cruiser Dan for all the parts except the Fel-Pro gasket. I even got all new bolts and nuts from him.

I had the parts bead blasted and then used an air hose to get all the abrasive media out. I also painted my pieces with some high heat paint just to add some flair. I don't know if it'll last.

get all new gaskets and follow the torque sequence. It's a bear of a job, but next time, I'll know what I'm up against.

You sure get to know the truck a lot better.

Here's a picture of some of the components partially assembled loosely.
intakeexhuastmani.jpg
 
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Dang Spike Strip that puppy is looking good! I hope to have a similar picture to share over the winter.
I plan on redoing everything like that back to OEM.

For the life of me though , I don't remember having that rear insulator on my 87's manifold like JLH911's pic. :confused:
 
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Spike Strip

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Thanks, Joe -E ...

It's common for those insulators to be missing. They're just aluminiumized, Tin sheets. They're avail from the dealer, but $$. You can find 'em used, here on MUD and just paint them. Kind of important, I think, to shield various components from the exhaust furnace.

JLH -- Looks good! Now paint that EGR Cooler, too!

I used POR 15 manifold stuff -- It's in the pic.

S.
 
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Thanks, Joe -E ...

It's common for those insulators to be missing. They're just aluminiumized, Tin sheets. They're avail from the dealer, but $$. You can find 'em used, here on MUD and just paint them. Kind of important, I think, to shield various components from the exhaust furnace.

JLH -- Looks good! Now paint that EGR Cooler, too!

I used POR 15 manifold stuff -- It's in the pic.

S.


Yeah, that rear Heat Insulator was hard to get off but I'm going to use whatever heat shielding I can use...ever notice how brittle hoses and stuff are on the manifold side? all that heat is hell for the various components.

I will paint the EGR cooler. I wasn't going to, but I have some extra paint.
 

pismojim

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Bought the brand new OEM Exhaust/Intake about $525 w/ discount, No regrets. When you receive the brand new factory fresh E/I manifold (assembled, ready to install) with brand new and functional heat riser you with not regret it. Maybe it was the intoxicating smell of the brand new aluminum and cast iron freshly coated with clean machine oil. In any case, the brand new set-up is sweet and effective. A new EGR tube (doubke gasket?) and you're good to go for another 200K,


Call Cdan if you don't have a local hook-up.

No regrets,
 
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Bought the brand new OEM Exhaust/Intake about $525 w/ discount, No regrets. When you receive the brand new factory fresh E/I manifold (assembled, ready to install) with brand new and functional heat riser you with not regret it. Maybe it was the intoxicating smell of the brand new aluminum and cast iron freshly coated with clean machine oil. In any case, the brand new set-up is sweet and effective. A new EGR tube (doubke gasket?) and you're good to go for another 200K,


Call Cdan if you don't have a local hook-up.

No regrets,

Yeah I hear ya. That's my next purchase. After further deliberating while working on mine I decided to just get a new one. It was also leaking around the heat riser plate shaft and I didn't want to get involved in that as well.
 
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However is it true that the MAF header will NOT bolt up to the stock down pipe? I would hate to get involved in welding pipes, etc.


Zack

I know of no header that will work with the stock downpipe.

It is a quick and easy job for a muffler shop to fix though.
 
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Yeah, that rear Heat Insulator was hard to get off but I'm going to use whatever heat shielding I can use...ever notice how brittle hoses and stuff are on the manifold side? all that heat is hell for the various components.

I will paint the EGR cooler. I wasn't going to, but I have some extra paint.

Does anyone have a pic or part number for the heat insulator that has been spoken about a few times here?

Also when pulling this apart, what should we do about the EGR pipe? Should it be replaced, and how many gaskets does it entail.?

And I guess the general feeling is to use a single fel-pro gasket.


Zack
 
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is 50ft. lbs too much for a torque spec.???? i thought my manual said 29-36??? same manual with the torque sequence. BTW i think it starts in the middle and works outwards.
 
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surface of the head should be checked for warpage as well. also i used the fel-pro kit which comes with the 2-gaskets that go between the manifolds as well as the main manifold gasket.
 

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