Make sure your butterfly flap in the exh mani is working. If it's frozen it can cause that kind of a crack from the hot exh gas constantly directed at the intake.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
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so, it's time to wake up this thread-figure it's better to keep it all in one place rather than cluttering up the search fields looking for the same old answers.
In the process of doing a gasket swap, almost all of the studs and nuts were finger tight if not a wee bit more than. Of course I had a few incidental nuts shear off without warning (YAY). Any issues with replacing all the studs with bolts?
I noticed that spike mentioned something about using the orange RTV on the horns, wondering if you did just the outer parts of the rings or covered the rings inside and out? One of my horns comes out with no problem but the other is frozen in there at a slightly off angle so I think I will try heating and cooling and some PB Blast to free it.
Any need for RTV in between the manifolds when re-gasketing? I got the full remflex set, btw.
not sure if I need to worry about resurfacing with the remflex, thoughts?
Thanks ahead of time
In the process of doing a gasket swap, almost all of the studs and nuts were finger tight if not a wee bit more than. Of course I had a few incidental nuts shear off without warning (YAY). Any issues with replacing all the studs with bolts?
I noticed that spike mentioned something about using the orange RTV on the horns, wondering if you did just the outer parts of the rings or covered the rings inside and out? One of my horns comes out with no problem but the other is frozen in there at a slightly off angle so I think I will try heating and cooling and some PB Blast to free it.
Any need for RTV in between the manifolds when re-gasketing? I got the full remflex set, btw.
not sure if I need to worry about resurfacing with the remflex, thoughts?
Thanks ahead of time
I used a good amt of RTV on the horn rings. It seems to have held up well for 5-6 years now. Also used the RTV on the gaskets btwn the manifolds. I'm not sure if Remflex recommends using RTV or not. Read their website propaganda. I helped a local MUD member install a Remflex head/manifold gskt and he didn't resurface. Has held up fine, but I don't remember what the condition of the int/exh combo was like. Torque specs for the Remflex are different so follow their recommendations.
The two studs for the manifold are nice cuz it gives you something to hang the manifold on to align the other bolts.
The two studs for the manifold are nice cuz it gives you something to hang the manifold on to align the other bolts.
so I got the second horn out this morning before work, the rings seem frozen in place and don't flex much. I'm soaking them right now and hoping they come free. Question is, does anyone have the spring in their horns? I'm seeing it listed as toyota part #17147. Yet I don't see it listed in the FSM or anywhere else...
I especially dont see it in either of my horns.
I especially dont see it in either of my horns.
This is what the springs and rings look like.
Here's some manifold pictures. The first one is the swivel end with the clip and wavy gasket showing. In the groove on the right, you might be able to see the wavy gasket in place.
thanks hank, I just found an old thread and was looking at it as you replied. One horns seems fine but I have yet to actually remove the rings/springs. the other horn's rings are locked up to the point that you can't even see where the seperation is . Think I'm giving a call to Cdan tomorrow and get a care package of small parts. Been starting a list and now I might have to get the whole batch.
and thank you spike, any and all input is appreciated.
its a shame new OEM manifolds are NLA........this is what I did on my 82fj40, brand new stuff, brand new OEM carb, niether were to spendy(considering the longterm), wish I would have bought another set.
my 86 is a leak or crack, I bought ALL the OEM parts, thought about doing it with a buddy......than decided not to, going to have it done
I fixxed the J pipe to find it was not the leak......its been so in the past......so I "assumed"
my 86 is a leak or crack, I bought ALL the OEM parts, thought about doing it with a buddy......than decided not to, going to have it done
I fixxed the J pipe to find it was not the leak......its been so in the past......so I "assumed"
more than a tick, does not really make noise untill 2000rpms'
I had thought it was the J pipe, done them before(once on this one), so that what I did....but it was not the leak.
So.....I am "assuming" its the manifold gasket. Can't think of anyplace else for it to leak. I have listened with some hose but its a PITA to get it down to the manifold.
I suppose its possible its leaking out of the air rail or something(not sure how) isn't there a check valve?. I did remove the smog pump a few years ago, replaced with idler.
I was going to do it myself with a buddy...so I got all the OEM parts needed....but I am going to have it done I think.
I had thought it was the J pipe, done them before(once on this one), so that what I did....but it was not the leak.
So.....I am "assuming" its the manifold gasket. Can't think of anyplace else for it to leak. I have listened with some hose but its a PITA to get it down to the manifold.
I suppose its possible its leaking out of the air rail or something(not sure how) isn't there a check valve?. I did remove the smog pump a few years ago, replaced with idler.
I was going to do it myself with a buddy...so I got all the OEM parts needed....but I am going to have it done I think.
Quite possible. The metal rings that surround each exhaust port opening on the manifold gasket can literally creep (if that is the correct term) out away from the gasket material when the engine exhaust gets too hot for too long. The metal sealing ring on the manifold gasket can end up being deformed almost 1.5X it's original size in such a hideous and utterly grotesque manner that the sight of it can make normally civilized men run out of the garage and into the house out of sheer horror. It does not seem possible how it could grow in such a way. But oddly enough.... it can.....and when the metal sealing ring on the manifold gasket starts to deform.....there will be a leak.
Also check the exhaust downpipe below the manifold. Mine cracked just below the flange that bolts to the exhaust manifold. My local exhaust shop guru was able to identify the leak after he put my 60 on a lift. He used a stethoscope. Some have a smoke machine.
Where may be the best place to get an intake and exhaust manifold? I know new ones are NLA. Is it basically scouring the classifieds for someone parting out a rig, Cruiserparts, ebay, or does someone "know a guy"? My intake manifold is cracked and I could get it welded, but I'd like to go back with an unwelded one and then keep the welded one as a spare. Or is that just silly?
My intake manifold is cracked and I could get it welded, but I'd like to go back with an unwelded one and then keep the welded one as a spare. Or is that just silly?Fair enough Hank14. Thanks!
Ask in the classifieds section.
So, a few questions with some images
1. my Horn springs and clips were pretty much non existent...just checking to make sure that they go on in order of the multi hex spring and then circular on top?
2. I am curious if those that had their exhaust manifolds bead blasted and if they thought it was worth it?
3. When you have them machined...did you have horns mounted or off to do separate? I am concerned that they might shift in machining....
4. I am looking for the Torque for the Manifolds to the engine as well as the tightening pattern.
5. I need the Torques and pattern of the mounting of the two manifolds together....Cannot seem to find them.
I am set on gaskets, RTV Seal, bolts, springs/coils for horns, Welding of cracks, Heat insulator block off plate...etc.
Any Help would be great! Thanks.
1. my Horn springs and clips were pretty much non existent...just checking to make sure that they go on in order of the multi hex spring and then circular on top?
2. I am curious if those that had their exhaust manifolds bead blasted and if they thought it was worth it?
3. When you have them machined...did you have horns mounted or off to do separate? I am concerned that they might shift in machining....
4. I am looking for the Torque for the Manifolds to the engine as well as the tightening pattern.
5. I need the Torques and pattern of the mounting of the two manifolds together....Cannot seem to find them.
I am set on gaskets, RTV Seal, bolts, springs/coils for horns, Welding of cracks, Heat insulator block off plate...etc.
Any Help would be great! Thanks.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
1. Yes. Springs then rings on top.
2. No opinion. Edit: @NeverGiveUpYota used some sort of molasses home moonshine to clean up her exhaust manifold. It turned out pretty well. Maybe she can chime in. Painting the EM is a waste, even high temp paint flakes right off in a few weeks. I suggest leaving it be and enjoy the natural patina.
3. Horns must be attached. The machinist must tack them in place and resurface. This is the difficult part in finding a shop that can do it. Also have the bolt holes machined flat as well. It's very important to find a shop that has some experience with these manifolds. Most will turn you away.
4.
5. I'm not sure there's a torque pattern for mating the two manifolds together. I think you can just cross cross and snug the bolts Gudentight. I'd just duplicate the torque specs above to be safe, since the components are essentially the same. Anyone?
Hope this helps. Good luck.
2. No opinion. Edit: @NeverGiveUpYota used some sort of molasses home moonshine to clean up her exhaust manifold. It turned out pretty well. Maybe she can chime in. Painting the EM is a waste, even high temp paint flakes right off in a few weeks. I suggest leaving it be and enjoy the natural patina.
3. Horns must be attached. The machinist must tack them in place and resurface. This is the difficult part in finding a shop that can do it. Also have the bolt holes machined flat as well. It's very important to find a shop that has some experience with these manifolds. Most will turn you away.
4.
5. I'm not sure there's a torque pattern for mating the two manifolds together. I think you can just cross cross and snug the bolts Gudentight. I'd just duplicate the torque specs above to be safe, since the components are essentially the same. Anyone?
Hope this helps. Good luck.
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I used Por15 High-temp Exhaust paint (didn't even follow the directions well) and it's held up amazingly, though now, after about 8 years, I'm starting to see some rust bleed through.
