Also, with a factory Toyota FF you risk shearing the axle studs on the end of the axle shaft. So
ARB studs, Long axles with 4 additional dowels or larger studs will pretty much solve this issue.
Can a semi floater be converted to a FF axle? (1 Viewer)
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ARB studs, Long axles with 4 additional dowels or larger studs will pretty much solve this issue.
- Thread starter
- #42
With broken studs one wouldn't be "dead in the water". Would they?
I've heard that the factory Toyota FF has a smaller cross-section than a SF axle, so the "strength" is roughly equivalent. Don't know for certain though. Also, with a factory Toyota FF you risk shearing the axle studs on the end of the axle shaft. So
Not dead in water. I managed to break them on one side... Axle started to walk out... Pulled it out... Stuffed a plastic bag in the hole... Locked in the front hubs... Drove to work... Drove home.
coleman2347
Ole Jarhead
This tread got me to thinking, always dangerous. so went to garage today, pulled out the old ff 70 rear end and am putting it on the BJ40 tomorrow, already got a 70 front axle for the disc brakes so now they match...Thanks guys..Lee
they(down under) sell a kit to upgrade the axle to hub studs and pins to 10 mil. the same size that hold the diff to the housing. I have them on mine and have not had any issues since. as said before do not use
any type of sealant between the axle and hub.
any type of sealant between the axle and hub.
Right, just wanted to bring it up as part of the discussion.
A couple of comments I should make since I make these flanges...
1st off, someone quoted $1400ish for converting to everything new and compared it to buying a used FF setup? How is that a fair comparison? Also, where is your parts source for an axle never sold in the US? This is simply a bad comparison since I have never met an owner that didn't have tons of used parts and sources for more. This is $250 in common parts used at the most except the axles and for the axles try Branik Motorsports for a much better price with the best quality.
2nd, a FF is stronger in that it is not pre-loaded with the vehicle weight. Pure and simple...
3rd point, How are disc brakes worse in snow and ice and an enviornment that salts the roads? The backing plate alone would rust away before anything disc related. And when adjusted properly how are they actually any different except that you stop in a shorter distance?
Enough said...And don't forget the MUD10 discount code when you order them
1st off, someone quoted $1400ish for converting to everything new and compared it to buying a used FF setup? How is that a fair comparison? Also, where is your parts source for an axle never sold in the US? This is simply a bad comparison since I have never met an owner that didn't have tons of used parts and sources for more. This is $250 in common parts used at the most except the axles and for the axles try Branik Motorsports for a much better price with the best quality.
2nd, a FF is stronger in that it is not pre-loaded with the vehicle weight. Pure and simple...
3rd point, How are disc brakes worse in snow and ice and an enviornment that salts the roads? The backing plate alone would rust away before anything disc related. And when adjusted properly how are they actually any different except that you stop in a shorter distance?
Enough said...And don't forget the MUD10 discount code when you order them
Enough said...And don't forget the MUD10 discount code when you order them
Awesome.
Plenty of folks besides me really appreciate when a vendor chimes in on technical discussions. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #49
SOR will have my parts and axle, when in stock. Buying used is a non issue with me. My Ebay account proves that. Drums on the back doesnt bother me.
A couple of comments I should make since I make these flanges...
1st off, someone quoted $1400ish for converting to everything new and compared it to buying a used FF setup? How is that a fair comparison? Also, where is your parts source for an axle never sold in the US? This is simply a bad comparison since I have never met an owner that didn't have tons of used parts and sources for more. This is $250 in common parts used at the most except the axles and for the axles try Branik Motorsports for a much better price with the best quality.
2nd, a FF is stronger in that it is not pre-loaded with the vehicle weight. Pure and simple...
3rd point, How are disc brakes worse in snow and ice and an enviornment that salts the roads? The backing plate alone would rust away before anything disc related. And when adjusted properly how are they actually any different except that you stop in a shorter distance?
Enough said...And don't forget the MUD10 discount code when you order them
If you run a 45 with drum brakes in the rear, you'll need an adjustable proportioning valve to balance your brake bias front to rear. Without one, the rear brakes WILL lock every time you step on them with ANY force.
Been there, done that.
- Thread starter
- #51
Thought that is with discs in the rear.
FF drums on a 45 are much wider and more powerful than stock 40 drums. I had added a stock proportioning valve when I converted to front discs. When I swapped in a 45 FF rear axle, the rear was locking up... Until I swapped in a Willwood adjustable proportioning valve. Problem solved.
Ran it that way for a few years, and then swapped discs into the rear.
Enclosed workings (for the most part) vs. exposed workings in a position that sees lots of salt spray kicked up by the front tires. Dealing with seized bits on the front brakes was bad enough when I first got my cruiser.
We don't see as much salt here, but I've had far more trouble with siezed bits on drum brakes than with Discs. The only moving parts with Toyota Discs are the pistons and the pads. The pistons should be sealed by the boots, and the pads only slide on the pins... which could easily be replaced with Stainles Steel rod.
My experience has been that stock front Brake shoes were down to metal in 20,000 miles. I replaced them with discs and I've now got 75,000 miles on the first set of brake pads... which were only $21 for the set. The discs don't require the periodic adjustments that were manditory to keep the drums opperational. I found adjusting the rears to be a minor inconvience, the fronts, required adjustment every time I turned around.
Is your truck of course, so do what you feel is best. I know many others are happy with their drums.
^Yup, I agree.
I also have a 45 FF rear. The drums work fine (except dunked in water/mud), so I run them. I just did some brake work on it. This time around I was able to rebuild one of the oddball 1 1/8" cylinders. Next time I may well swap over to disk brakes (but I should probably get around to switching to front disks first
). The stock 45 cylinders and wide shoes are not so easy to source or cheap as the SF counterparts.
If I had a 70 FF under there, I'd likely keep it stock drums, since the parts are common with the later 40/60 series SF rears. Easy to get and fairly cheap.
Dan F, I can certainly see the place for your product and you make some good points as to its merrits
. My comments were directed at rockdoc since he specifically was wanting drums. For a 60 I'd actually look to install an 80 FF, narrowed or not But that would be with disk brakes
I also have a 45 FF rear. The drums work fine (except dunked in water/mud), so I run them. I just did some brake work on it. This time around I was able to rebuild one of the oddball 1 1/8" cylinders. Next time I may well swap over to disk brakes (but I should probably get around to switching to front disks first
). The stock 45 cylinders and wide shoes are not so easy to source or cheap as the SF counterparts.If I had a 70 FF under there, I'd likely keep it stock drums, since the parts are common with the later 40/60 series SF rears. Easy to get and fairly cheap.
Dan F, I can certainly see the place for your product and you make some good points as to its merrits
. My comments were directed at rockdoc since he specifically was wanting drums. For a 60 I'd actually look to install an 80 FF, narrowed or not But that would be with disk brakes
Mud_Guppie
EBI Cruisers
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I have a few full float FJ45 diffs if you want one. As well, I may be pulling the FF from my FJ40. It's been converted to Disks and has an antiwrap bar installed. I run 37's with a V8 and detroit locker, I've double up on the dowls and it seems to be holding fine.
1978freebornred
78 fj40 LE and 79 fj40 LE w/ stock ac
im geussing you want full floating to increase towing capacity? how much would that be?
- Thread starter
- #58
Chips, beer and a fishing rod. That is why I have to have one. I also think is should of had one in the USA in the beginning and I believe that it wont devalue too much since I will keep the old stuff.. IDK.
I personally would never tow with an 89" WB. You would increase capacity but my goal would simply be strength and inexpensive disc brakes.
Thats fine...
But at what price. SOR has always been known to bring in interesting items but the price has never been bargain basement...
But at what price. SOR has always been known to bring in interesting items but the price has never been bargain basement...
