How quiet can a new suspension be? (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
It makes the rumble with the hubs in or out, 2WD or 4WD. I spent a LOT of time getting the pinion angles worked out and have zero vibration at speed. I replaced the U Joints (Matsuba) as part of the suspension geometry set up. Thanks for the suggestions!
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Are the U joints in time?
- Thread starter
- #24
wow... quite the range in prices!
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Yeah, trying to isolate noises is annoying.
- Thread starter
- #26
In time? Perhaps you meant in tune? I had them balanced. One question I had was: If the shop that balanced them would notice if the main splined joint is loose at all... I would assume this would be caught in the balancing process?
- Thread starter
- #27
So time consuming without some way of isolating it! I chased a nasty chirp for almost all summer last year. Turned out to be one of bolts holding the 4Plus tire carrier to my cross member was rubbing against the metal part of a body mount... easy fix.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The yokes need to be in alignment with each other. They're probably OK because you would likely have a vibration.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ah right, yes, they are aligned properly. The fact that it runs quiet on tarmac with very little vibration from the drive train, and only rumbles on rough roads, seems to indicate something is loose.
Same. Normally when something like this pops up I say good luck, but I don't have many rattles. I also hate rattles, and have sought out to remedy them.
Grab onto anything and everything and give it an appropriate wiggle or shake. Sometimes a tap with a rubber mallet will expose things.
The intermittent ones behind the dash induce the most anger.
The hardtop fasteners like to back out regularly. They don't really go loose, but a 1/8 turn on a little ratchet goes a long ways.
Should've came up. I don't remember the criteria, but some driveshafts are balanced with the joints not in sync. I don't think it applies to a 40. And l, they're the size of a baby arm anyways and I'd think it'd take a lot to feel it if it was remotely close to being in margin
- Thread starter
- #32
The two factors that most influenced my driveline vibrations after installing the EMU lift kit were 1) the U-Joint bearings and 2) getting the right shims added to the spring perches. The final coup de gras for vibrations was updating the diffs with ARB lockers and new ring and pinion gears and balanced drive lines. Very smooth on the tarmac!
So, I think this discussion dropped the drivelines down the list of possible sources of my rumble.
Suspension noise?!?!? I can’t hear the suspension over everything else…
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Time, tune, no. He means are they in phase, where the ujoints line up exactly when looking down the length of the driveshaft. If the removeable end is reinserted in the splines a bit off, they can definitely make a noise/vibration.
Or perhaps it's the missing 10mm socket you've been looking for?
Or perhaps it's the missing 10mm socket you've been looking for?
After removing the top and all the doors (including the tailgate) mine got better.
Removing the roll cage and gas tank and adding sheets of 1/16 inch neoprene between the mounts on the cage, tank and tank cover and the body also helped.
Now, I'm looking at the exhaust that the PO welded to the frame wondering how much better it might be if there were proper rubber isolators in the hangers, or if "fixing" that incorrectly might just make it worse.
Removing the roll cage and gas tank and adding sheets of 1/16 inch neoprene between the mounts on the cage, tank and tank cover and the body also helped.
Now, I'm looking at the exhaust that the PO welded to the frame wondering how much better it might be if there were proper rubber isolators in the hangers, or if "fixing" that incorrectly might just make it worse.
- Thread starter
- #36
I started jiggling around with stuff more... the rear barn door latch rattles like crazy actually! Next chance I get, I'll have a buddy ride back there and muffle stuff.
