Can someone help me with upgrading to a newer igniter coil? (2 Viewers)

[Last Flight Out]

I think it may be time to update my Ignition/Coil unit and just need some guidance on what would be the best option for a non-brainer swap with minimal headaches. Was hoping someone can chime in here and help guide me. And yes, "if it aint broke" does apply here, but I am updating everything that affects my starting optimization as it has become very lethargic these days....sometimes barely turning over (with full battery charge, etc).

To date, I have replaced all the below with all Toyota OEM parts:

• Plugs, wires, standard distributor+rotor
• Fuel pump, filter, misc rubber lines
• To be installed in next 2 weeks: 28100-60070-84 Toyota Reman RG starter, new battery cable leads, grounding leads (from @Fourrunner)
• Truck was desmogged last year with carb rebuild from @AccGarage

I have the original ballast style coil igniter and know that you can no longer get this original setup. I understand now you can go with a DENSO ignition coil with internal resistor (029700-5251??) as a standard replacement. My questions are:

1. Do you just forego the ballast all together with this option?
2. What do you do with the single JIS JDM Lance type green connector lead to the distributor base (see pics below)
3. What do you do with the two JIS JDM Lance type green connectors leads with the (white and brown with fabric covering) - these may be power and ground for the ballast?
4. Anything else I need to think about before upgrading to a newer DENSO unit?

Many thanks for any input you can provide!

 

[GA Architect]

OEM Coil: 90919-02113 (8/80 - 8/87)

 

[Last Flight Out]

OEM Coil: 90919-02113 (8/80 - 8/87)

Thanks man. Assuming this foregoes the ballast, what about the power and distributor connectors?

 

[Last Flight Out]

I think I was confusing myself with this…can you simply replace the coil and keep the igniter and connections (on top) as is?

 

[jembourbe]

Yes.

 

[Spike Strip]

I think I was confusing myself with this…can you simply replace the coil and keep the igniter and connections (on top) as is?

Yes - Simply remove the plastic cap and remove the small nuts on each terminal of the coil. Keep track of what goes where. Take pix if you need to. Clean the corrosion off the small O-ring connectors and put it all back together. These 'Igniters' are grounded to the body. Make sure all grounds are clean and making good contact.

Might want to disconnect the NEG battery terminal while doing this, just to be safe.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Yes - Simply remove the plastic cap and remove the small nuts on each terminal of the coil. Keep track of what goes where. Take pix if you need to. Clean the corrosion off the small O-ring connectors and put it all back together. These 'Igniters' are grounded to the body. Make sure all grounds are clean and making good contact.

Might want to disconnect the NEG battery terminal while doing this, just to be safe.

Many thanks Spike - Perfect will do all that....do the igniters go bad at all? I just researched a bit more and apparently on the later FJ40s, these no longer had ballasts and were a bit more robust. I am installing a new OEM starter soon and just want a stronger start. Not sure if the igniter has any impact on that.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Be sure and document what you did and write down the part #'s. Someone some day will be glad you did; it might even be you in a decade or two.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Be sure and document what you did and write down the part #'s. Someone some day will be glad you did; it might even be you in a decade or two.

Already on it!

 

[Spike Strip]

Many thanks Spike - Perfect will do all that....do the igniters go bad at all? I just researched a bit more and apparently on the later FJ40s, these no longer had ballasts and were a bit more robust. I am installing a new OEM starter soon and just want a stronger start. Not sure if the igniter has any impact on that.

Igniters do go bad, but very very rarely. There's some tests in the FSM. But they either fail or work - never known of one to have intermittent issues. BTW, this is the same igniter as on 81-87 USA FJ60s.

Coil is an 'Internal Ballast' type. No external ballast needed. Denso coil is very robust.

Depending on your skill level, there are some threads on cleaning and refurbishing that late igniter with new heat sink grease aka heat transfer compound. Igniters' greatest enemy is heat. Installing a FJ60 Dizzy - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm

If you want a stronger start, good place to start is to upgrade ALL your battery cables and Body/Chassis Ground cables (there's kits available from various vendors @ToyotaMatt Vintageteqparts.com comes to mind), and make sure all grounds on Frame, body, etc are clean and anti-seized.

 

[GA Architect]

Installing a FJ60 Dizzy - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm

If you want a stronger start, good place to start is to upgrade ALL your battery cables and Body/Chassis Ground cables ...

When I switched to the FJ60 big cap electronic dizzy set-up, that is the exact thread I used..........I also installed a new OEM coil and upgraded all my battery cables for good measure.

@Last Flight Out - you got this.

 

[Last Flight Out]

When I switched to the FJ60 big cap electronic dizzy set-up, that is the exact thread I used..........I also installed a new OEM coil and upgraded all my battery cables for good measure.

@Last Flight Out - you got this.

I’m trying to figure out if I am missing a ground lead to my head near #5. In older FJ40’s I’ve seen a lead from this threaded hole to the firewall, but not sure if they stopped this with the 80’s. Anyone confirm?

 

[Spike Strip]

There should be a ground from the Cyl head to the firewall/cowl. Cable upgrade kit will include it.

Isn't there a threaded hole right at the # 6 cyl corner ? Hidden in your photo.

Right next to (at 3 o'clock) the hole with red arrow, is the oil galley plug. Looks original. If original, and you're unfamiliar with it, do a search about it's possible issues.

 

[Last Flight Out]

There should be a ground from the Cyl head to the firewall/cowl. Cable upgrade kit will include it.

Isn't there a threaded hole right at the # 6 cyl corner ? Hidden in your photo.

Right next to (at 3 o'clock) the hole with red arrow, is the oil galley plug. Looks original. If original, and you're unfamiliar with it, do a search about it's possible issues.

Meaning the ever leaking oil galley plugs? I’ll check but head looks dry. May post a pic here later for some thoughts.

 

[cruisermatt]

If your engine runs at all then your coil/ignitor itself has nothing to do with your engine not being able to start.

 

[Last Flight Out]

If your engine runs at all then your coil/ignitor itself has nothing to do with your engine not being able to start.

Agreed but it is getting harder to start. Like slower turns when I am starting from cold start, pumps, then choke out. I’ll start with cleaning up grounds and replacing starter as it is easy to do…and some new wires from @forrunner

 

[cruisermatt]

Agreed but it is getting harder to start. Like slower turns when I am starting from cold start, pumps, then choke out. I’ll start with cleaning up grounds and replacing starter as it is easy to do…and some new wires from @forrunner

If it is not cranking properly that is an issue with your starter or associated wiring connections.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Good eye @Spike Strip … will need to get this rectified soon. I don’t drive it a lot but want to make sure it is fixed the right way

 

[Last Flight Out]

Closing this one out and as always, thank you for your help- especially @GA Architect wjo literally has every Toyota part number memorized!