Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

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Amen.

What's your labor rate to do #2?

I had that thought, and planned on trying to guess how many hours I've got in it. But if you have to ask...
 
Looking good Cam. Lots of so called, "professional shops" work would not be as good.

Thanks!

I've redone several things because I wasn't totally happy with how they looked. I decided not to let any of that slide on this project.
 
I just went back and guesstimated how much time I've spent. So far, counting Rob's help, I'm at between 100-130 hours in. I'm guessing I have another 10 or so plus exhaust. I won't even try to guess how many hours I spent researching 'mud and elsewhere (I'd probably get fired.)

I'd like to think another 60/62 would take a lot less. (ahem... Bomar...cough)
 
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I saw this on some other threads, so you don't lose your brakes if you stall (hopefully a non-issue with the auto), you need a check valve on the vacuum line from the intake to the brake booster. Here that is, shown with the reducer needed to connect the two lines...

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I may have spread some bad info. It seems there's already a check valve in the Toyota brake booster....in the 60 series, at least.
 
I didn't have much time today, but was able to get the ground cables, big starter cable, and alternator wires run. All by using and re-routing the stock cables and GM alt wire. No modifying or crimping new ends, so that was very nice.

Then things took a turn for the worse when I went to put in my new PS hose. I stripped the AN fitting in the gear box end. I have a new one ordered from PSC, but for the (hopeful) startup tomorrow, I welded the unused low pressure fitting to the stripped one to give me the two needed ends. I'm lucky I at least had that.

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With any luck, tomorrow's first post will be a startup video.
 
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Thanks for linking this thread! It reads like a 'how to' for exactly what I'm trying to do to mine.

You are sooo close - you must be dying to fire it.

Again lots of great info here and I hope you don't mind if I hit you up with lots of questions.

The first one...got a part # for the fittings you used in this post?

Thanks!

Ed

Like I said before, I had to overthink the fuel fittings because it was new territory for me.

Here's the new filter/pressure regulator & it's fittings...

View attachment 1004227

These fittings have two o-rings that make the seal, and usually a plastic clip that holds them on the hard pipe. The plastic clip made me paranoid, so I opted for the kind that screw together.

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Thanks for linking this thread! It reads like a 'how to' for exactly what I'm trying to do to mine.

You are sooo close - you must be dying to fire it.

Again lots of great info here and I hope you don't mind if I hit you up with lots of questions.

The first one...got a part # for the fittings you used in this post?

Thanks!

Ed

Thanks! Holler anytime you have a question.

I used Russell 640940, 644110, and 644120 on the filter/regulator and a second 644120 on the fuel rail.
 
Well, hmmmph. I wired up everything I think I need to start it, and it's not firing.

It turns over just fine and I think I smell gas (need another person to turn the key while I check the fuel pump to make sure it's running), but there's no hint of a spark.

Any quick ideas before I dump the water out of the radiator & block (freezing temps on the way)?

I don't have a code reader to plug in.

It isn't making any weird noises or anything.
 
I had my wife start it while I checked the fuel pump, and it did not prime, nor did it feel like it was running while starting. So that gives me something to investigate.

It wants to start. I can feel it.
 
if you turn the key to on...the fuel pump should run for a few seconds and cut off... when you turn key to start, fuel pump suppose to come on and stay on. Might check wiring at fuel pump and potentially your source for ign on.....that tells the ECM to turn on the fuel pump.

The first part is easy to test...you could use a test light to see if power at fuel pump for that first couple of sec when ign turned on...then if not..potentially you've got a wiring issue to solve... can do that test without having to start engine.
 
Fuel pump relay? There could be an issue with the ignition source as well, but if it's not priming I'd make sure the pump is properly grounded and getting 12v before going any further.
 

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