Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

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Stupid question, you did have VATS removed correct?
 
offr0adlim0 said:
Stupid question, you did have VATS removed correct?
Click to expand...

I had the same thought.

The computer was done by the same place that did the harness, so I would certainly hope that would have been removed. I can't imagine they ever leave it in.

Is there any way to test it?

I've got all the wires needed to run hooked up per the wire labels and the instructions. My 12V run/start is spliced into the cig lighter, which only gets power in run & start.

The cranking signal comes from a sensor, right?

The fuses are all intact.

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Bomar said:
Ice day work?
Click to expand...

Pass! I don't feel like crawling around out there today!

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see if you have 12volts at the fuel pump when you first turn key to run, if not then you will have to go back and look at your ign on connection and if there are any relays in the mix. Of course you should have good grounds. as I recall I used the + wire that use to feed the coil for my ign on source, but there are other sources too. You could have a bad fuel pump...doubtful but part of the mix. If you have 12volts at the fuel pump...then I would hot wire the fuel pump to see if it works and you should be able to hear it run or feel it when it initially starts if you are there by it.

As I recall the PCM needs to know that you have ign on then it "engages" the fuel pump circuit. I'm not sure if the PCM is looking for a set voltage beyond 12 volts....not a lot of amps cross the cig lighter wire. If you run into problems..try and hot wire the ign on from the battery with a jumper to just test that you have an operational circuit...and the fuel pump powers up.
 
FJ60Cam said:
The cranking signal comes from a sensor, right?
Click to expand...

On the AFI setup the cranking signal is taken from the terminal on the starter solenoid. This terminal gets 12V from the ignition switch when it's in the start position. Although referenced, I don't see that wire in the diagram you posted above. As mentioned though, I would think the pump would still prime as long as your start/run 12V source was good (I also took that from the positive side of the coil).
 
Crank sensor is located between the starter and engine in the side of the block. Your running a later model did you properly eliminate the DOD? Check for power at fuel pump, crank sensor. You can also plug in a simple obdII scanner and receive the codes.

If pump is getting power check for fuel at the fuel rail. Don't overlook the simple things. 90% of all issues are something simple.
 
offr0adlim0 said:
Crank sensor is located between the starter and engine in the side of the block. Your running a later model did you properly eliminate the DOD? Check for power at fuel pump, crank sensor. You can also plug in a simple obdII scanner and receive the codes.

If pump is getting power check for fuel at the fuel rail. Don't overlook the simple things. 90% of all issues are something simple.
Click to expand...

I didn't physically remove any DOD parts, other than the oil pressure sensor. I'm assuming it is turned off in the computer. It never came up in the discussion (and I didn't know to ask).

Knowns: the harness itself has good power and ground. The engine, frame and body are grounded, the starter works. There's no pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. All the fuses are intact.

The fuel pump "should" be getting power straight from the harness, via the relay.

Is it possible my 12V run/ start connection isn't sending enough juice to trigger the ignition & fuel pump relays?
 
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tcb said:
If all else fails, start smashing stuff with a BFH.
Click to expand...

You know what they say... if a hammer don't fix it, it's an electrical problem.
 
If the fuel pump is not getting power and is wired up correctly then it sounds like it is in theft mode.
 
you can run a jumper wire off the battery to test feed your ign on signal wire (off the engine harness), with key on...you should see 12 volts at the fuel pump...(a test light is the easy indicator). I would check that first off. As noted check the dumb stuff first. I would be tempted to hot wire the fuel pump first of all to make sure it works...(just for the hell of it) before I did anything else.
 
I went out and hot wired the 12V signal wire. It made the relays click (same as how I had it hooked up), and a few other faint noises that makes me think things are indeed coming to life.

I'm going to hot wire the fuel pump and look at the connections real good and see what happens. I could have just buggered the hot connection and it's shorting out on the pump body. It was dark and cold when I hooked it up. I'm guessing that's where my problem is. That seems more likely than a harness/computer shop as detail oriented as this one sending out a computer without removing VATS.
 
Ae you sure that the cig lighter maintains 12v while cranking?
 
I might have found the problem. I went out and hot wired the pump direct to the battery. Nothing. I checked my hot wire and the ground I ran to the pump and got 11.9 V. I checked the hot wire and the + terminal of the pump (nothing connected to it) and got 11.9 V.

I then called my son to come out and turn the key. I measured the voltage on my + wire to the pump from the harness. I got 11.9V for a few seconds and then went back down (priming). Also got voltage while he cranked it.

So, the system appears to working correctly, but the pump has an internal short.
 
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sounds like you might have found the easy answer...hope so (bad fuel pump). I've used an external walbro fuel pump on my truck all this time since my engine swap...no problems at all (still using the same one I installed at day one). Anyway hope that's your problem...at least for the sake of finding out.

I had a few gremlins with mine...one of which was getting the air out of the cooling system...(i resorted to taking the water neck off my 5.7 and filling up the engine with coolant) then going through the normal process of burping etc.... So if I ever drain the coolant I resort to this same process...and I need to get one of those "cool" funnels too.

Other issue I had was some wiring issues with the PCM and my harness....resolved later by finding out the harness only worked with a specfic year range of 5.7 vortecs...not all the ones offered.
 
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