Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

I've had good luck filling the (Toyota) cooling system by loosening the hose clamp on the upper radiator hose and sliding a screwdriver between the hose and neck to let the air out. I've never had to burp after that.

Are the V8's more difficult?

Georg mentioned one of these...

Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gTQ4ub0T1N54D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gTQ4ub0T1N54D

I can say the 5.7 vortec wants to get a big air pocket in the engine for some reason when the coolant is drained...I'm sure this is not unique to the 5.7 or V8's, but it seemed to take forever in bleeding the system and at the time I was not seeing the thermostat cycle...so the process above is what I do....basically filling the system with as much coolant as it will take and then filling the engine as far as it will go (through the water neck on the intake) and then starting from there. I find that this works best for me or my setup...the engine holds a good bit of coolant by itself.

(I take the thermostat housing/water neck & thermostat out) and fill up through the resulting "hole" in the intake, makes the process work so much faster. Of course it might be smart to install some type of bleeder in the cooling system but I've not gotten to that level.

I let my truck run 30 min or more and kept seeing temp spikes on the gauge (false readings based on air pockets) and I knew for sure the thermostat was not cycling...so the above solved it for me.

Yes I need to get one of those funnels too.

 

[NIGHTMARE]

 

[FJ60Cam]

I have my new fuel pump, I'm just waiting on some cooperative weather. We've had sleet & freezing rain all week. Today it is 60 and a monsoon.

I'm shooting for tomorrow. I need a shop!

 

[Bomar]

Better hurry....late Sunday more icey crap headed your way.

 

[NIGHTMARE]

Yep, this coming week is going worse than this week was.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Just throwing this out for the info...

Here's the AN pressure side fitting for Toyota steering boxes. You want a 16mm x 1.5 mm inverted flare to either AN or JIC 37 degree flare (same thing for our purposes.)

Next time I would have just bought the two fittings for the box and pump and had a hose shop make the hose w/AN fittings. Or just had a hose made with the box and pump fittings on it and bypass the AN adapters.

Here's a tool I made for the block drain. It's a 17mm hex - just weld a 17mm (wrench size) nut & bolt together from your old Toyota nut & bolt stash. I still had to heat the drain plug pretty good and use a breaker bar to get it loose.

It's a good sized hole, so be ready to get a faceful of coolant.

The plan is to start it up with water to flush everything, drain, then fill with coolant.

 

[FJ60Cam]

It also looks like FJ62 driveshafts are a direct bolt in for me. With a little foresight, one could actually plan it that way.

If anyone has a spare set laying around, the front especially, let me know.

 

[FJ60Cam]

It's ALIVE!!!

 

[FJ60Cam]

 

[third coast cruisers]

Awesome!!!

 

[fountainhead]

Badass.

 

[FJ60Cam]

As evidenced by the video, it fired right up. The pedal wire mod worked too.

I'm actually using the original fuel pump that I bought. I have absolutely no idea why it didn't work the first time. Maybe my ground wasn't good, even though it looked good on the multimeter.

I really think the motor just wanted Dirty Rob present for the first fire. He wasn't last time, but was today. That's the only logical explanation.

I bench tested the new one before I took the old one out and it worked. I tested the old one once I took it out, and it worked. I'll just keep the other in the truck for a spare, since I was planning on doing that anyway.

I had the harness 12V signal wire hot wired for the test fire. This made the fuel pump run continuously, which was good for the initial prime.

I have it connected it to the old coil + wire and run back into the cab for a permanent connection. As Fireman suggested, the cig lighter doesn't stay hot while cranking.

(Over simplified) To do list:
- wire in new brake switch for torque converter unlock while braking
- put the carpet & seats back in
- slight re-modification to the t-case shifter
- final design tweaks to rear crossmember
- get driveshafts shortened / stretched
- exhaust
- peel out

 

[Elbert]

good deal. whats the difference between the driveshafts on a fj62 and 60?

 

[FJ60Cam]

Here's the measurements I received for an FJ62 w/ a 3" lift.

However, I'd like to retract my earlier statement. They might work, but I'm measuring 37.5" for my rear.

The front, I'm going to have skinny tube lengthened (to clear the trans pan), so a stock wouldn't work.

The rear is cheap to modify, so probably not worth trying to find one from a 62.

 

[FJ60Cam]

The fuel pump is silent BTW. Of course you can't hear it over open headers, but it's barely audible when priming.

 

[FJ60Cam]

I got the passenger fender wires cleaned up. Everything is now run inside the fender. It still needs to be cleaned up and made permanent, and I still need to route the AC hoses through there.

Most of the leftover real estate will be used up by the windshield washer bottle and my ARB compressor.

Drivers side is pretty much done too. I just need a grommet for the hole in the firewall. The old hole for the clutch master was perfect for passing through the pedal wires, OBD port, and the other needed wires.

 

[Bomar]

Pimp tight.

 

[wngrog]

Hard core cold wrenchingwrenching

 

[FJ60Cam]

Hard ccore cccold wrwrwrwrwrenchchchchchchchching

This weather is a total buzzkill.

 

[FJ60Cam]

This applies to Gen IV 5.3's only (2007-ish and later for the truck motors)

...Your running a later model did you properly eliminate the DOD?...

As Rob mentioned, the newer motors have DOD (displacement on demand).

Honestly, I didn't really know much about this system when I bought the motor. But reading about it on the Internet will have you paranoid to run one. At a minimum, they often consume oil. Worst case is early engine failure.

If you want to read about how it is supposed to work, here's an article. If you search for DOD failures, there are plenty out there.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/0405sc-gmdod/#__federated=1

Its kinda like reading about 80 series head gaskets on 'mud, except there are a lot more 5.3s and 5.3 forums out there. I have no idea what the actual failure rate is.

You can buy kits to delete the DOD lifters, and you have to swap the cam, de-program it, and a few other things which completely eliminates it from the motor.

You can also have it simply programmed out of the tune, which deactivates the solenoids for the oil flow, and the lifters act like normal lifters.

Most people reported that simply deactivating it puts a stop to the oil consumption. It should stop the problems that lead to failure as well. Most also report no change in gas mileage.

I did call and talk to the peeps that did my computer and he looked back in his files and verified that it is turned off. (my new harness doesn't have the plugs for those sensors anyway, Ive heard it would throw a code and run in limp mode if not programmed out)

I feel cautiously optimistic since I've turned it off and the motor doesn't have high miles. It does have enough miles for the problem to have surfaced though.

I'm just throwing this out there as something to chew on since as the supply of used motors will gradually get replaced with these, it's something to keep in the back of your mind when shopping for one.