California failed SMOG - HELP! (4 Viewers)

[spreadhead14]

I bought a 1984 FJ60 from out of state and it’s failed SMOG twice already. Now it’s blacklisted as a “gross polluter” and has be star certified moving forward. I’ve taken it to 2 different shops here in San Diego and nobody can seem to help. I’ve called around no one works on these old carburetors. I HAVE to get this smogged so I can get tags. I’m in a desperate situation and need help. Does anyone know of a shop in the San Diego area that could help me? I’ve chatted with SD Trux but they want $2,000 to get it to pass but it’s not a permanent solution. Is that my only option?

 

[PBcuiser]

how do your readings compare to other threads on here where people have also failed testing? Posting up a pic of what the out of spec readings are could help. There is an emissions factory service manual available as a PDF somewhere on here that would be helpful to you too

 

[salvage60]

Pictures of the engine bay and your test data will help us sort it out. Not easy but I have passed in San Diego for 27 years.

 

[jmcclusk]

Valley Hybrids up in Stockton. They live and breathe Land Cruisers.

 

[2mbb]

get a copy of the Toyota 2F Engine Emission Control Repair Manual. You can download a PDF from the "Resources" tab above or maybe find a print version on ebay. You need to have all the components to pass the visual and all the systems need to be in working order to pass the tail pipe test. As mentioned above, pictures of your engine and a picture of your test report will help assess what the issue might be.

Hopefully someone for the SD area will post up with local mechanics that know smog...

 

[Spike Strip]

I bought a 1984 FJ60 from out of state and it’s failed SMOG twice already. Now it’s blacklisted as a “gross polluter” and has be star certified moving forward. I’ve taken it to 2 different shops here in San Diego and nobody can seem to help. I’ve called around no one works on these old carburetors. I HAVE to get this smogged so I can get tags. I’m in a desperate situation and need help. Does anyone know of a shop in the San Diego area that could help me? I’ve chatted with SD Trux but they want $2,000 to get it to pass but it’s not a permanent solution. Is that my only option?

First, buy a silver star subscription ($20/yr) so you can easily post unlimited pix. You're going to need this.

You've given us essentially no useful information about your situation so this is where pix are necessary.

Posting a scan or pic of your test results will start in the right direction.

If you're handy and can read, you can follow the Emissions Factory Manual as it has a step-by-step process for going through the individual emissions systems and testing for function. No special tools needed except for a Multimeter helps. It's not hard, just takes a while to understand and a lot of time to test, that's why the shop is quoting you such a high amount. People here can walk you through steps you have trouble with.

If emissions components are missing, that's an automatic fail. Doesn't matter what comes out the tail pipe. That's why we need pix.

If you're not able to work on the truck yourself, then your only other choice is to find a mechanic. I don't know of any in SD, but if you want a recommendation in the Los Angeles area, there are a couple I'd trust.

 

[OSS]

I recommend following @Spike Strip 's advice.
Also @2mbb is a treasure chest of excellent information

 

[spreadhead14]

Okay, here is the smog report. I’ll take pictures of the engine bay this evening.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Disclaimer: I've never worked on a gasoline cruiser with emissions gear.

1) %O2 is zero, does this mean the air pump isn't working? I assume that this will make HC high given the idea of the air pump is to promote further combustion of unburnt fuel which should also improve CO?
2) Do you know what your timing is at?

 

[vipergrhd]

Okay, here is the smog report. I’ll take pictures of the engine bay this evening.

View attachment 3921083

Is this a loaded test (Dyno)? Your reading is just as bad as mine but you don't have a Nox reading, my CO readings are very close to yours but my HC are borderline line failure. I rebuilt the carb about a year ago and I could not get the readings below 5%.

 

[Spike Strip]

Your O2 is zero. This is a fairly common problem. Air Injection is not working and that affects the other systems. Air Injection is the smog pump, air rail on the head, and that mass of valves on the driver's fender and hoses. First thing to tackle.

Pix are mandatory now to see if components are missing damaged etc.

 

[CRZR45]

My 2c.. Full tuneup.. OEM parts.. Cap ,Rotor, wires , plugs, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter. Replace all vacuum lines, oil change . Then follow emissions manual and make sure all systems are functioning correctly. It should pass after that. I have been down this rabbit hole with my FJ60.

 

[spreadhead14]

And here is the engine bay. All new exhaust, catalytic converter, egr gaskets and new J pipe, new exhaust manifold gaskets and new oil cooler. Fresh oil change, new oil pan and gasket.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Is the cat new since the previous test or was it replaced beforehand?

 

[spreadhead14]

Everything was done before the tests.

 

[Spike Strip]

The good news is it looks like you have a nice complete unmolested FJ60, in the engine bay at least. Ah, the beauty of looking at that almost incomprehensible mass of wires tubes and valves!

However, and this is not a small thing, you need to get the correct hold-down wing-nut for the air cleaner, above the carburetor. That nut is letting in a surprisingly large amount of unfiltered air as well as moisture into the carb. Also, I can't quite tell from the pic, but the rubber gasket that goes around the top of the carb and the opening of the air cleaner is either missing or not installed properly. That, too, if it's missing, lets in unfiltered air.

As far as emissions go, you have to start by figuring out why the O2 is at zero. That's an 'Air Injection System' issue. Below is a link to the FSM you need if you haven't already found it:

FSM - 2F Engine Emission Control, 1981, 36043E

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OSS]

As Spike mentioned - your air pump/smog pump (Air Injection System) is not working.
If it was, you'd see some O2 in the exhaust and yours had none.
If the AI system isn't working correctly - you aren't going to pass.
The catalytic converter needs oxygen to work efficiently and the way it gets it is from the air injection system.

 

[OSS]

The air pumps definitely don't last forever. Your issue -could be- as simple as replacing the air pump. If its the original pump, its 41 years old. Sometimes when they die, they seize (while you're driving) and cause biblical mayhem in the engine bay.
Since you're in CA and you likely don't have a record of an air pump replacement, I'd replace it anyway just for peace of mind. Also it will take one unknown variable out of the equation.

 

[1973Guppie]

talked to this gentlemen today I think, I would also recommend (along with all the great advice here) having the carb tuned properly if that has not been done....

 

[Spike Strip]

Just a guess here, but that carburetor looks too clean, and the foil sticker on the diaphragm looks too clean, to have not been replaced with a factory Carburetor sometime in the last 10 years or so? I would not be surprised if the cap over the mixture screw is still there.

First thing, without question, is to get the AI functioning and check for correct functioning of the ABV assembly. Then, see where the other parameters land and go from there.