California engine swap (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
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11
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74
Location
los angeles
So I have a 78fj40 with no engine, I really want to put a different engine besides the 2f primarily because the 2f is 40 years old and parts are too readily available. I would like to be able to go up to any part store and get a part. Since im planning on taking this on road trips.
So what Engine have you guys swapped into your 40s and what did you need to do to make it happen here in California and pass smog? Also how much did it cost for the build.
Gas or Diesel I'm open to both
 
^^^ what he said. If you care to send me your snail mail address I'll send you a freebie copy of the Downey V8 installation instruction manual. I think you would be very happy with the 4L60E automatic transmission that comes behind the LS motor, it has a lower first gear, an overdrive high gear, torque multiplication at the torque converter, better hill climber than a stick, and zero shifting. Also, Cali lets you put a newer engine into an older car, provided you use all of the emissions equipment that came with the newer motor, sooooo you'll need to grab the cat. converters, air cleaner, etc. with the new motor.
 
If you decide to keep your current frame for the swap, DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH, and get the facts, there is plenty of urban legend floating around. While California allows later model engines to be installed in older vehicles, there are SPECIFIC requirements. While most of them are easy to accommodate just be sure you know exactly what has to be done. Good luck!
 
I had a 69 FJ40 with a 5.3 and 4L60E in it, @Downey is correct, it's a great combo. The problem is, it is very LONG. The AA adapter to a 3-speed case adds I think 4.5". Do a lot of measurements with your radiator in place to move the motor/trans as far forward as possible. It will help with your rear shaft angle, and reduce heat soak from heads being too close to the firewall. I also used 60 springs to move my rear axle back a few inches.

Since yours is a 78 and you are in Cali, you might want to look for a car motor. I doubt the stock truck/SUV exhaust manifolds will fit between the frame rails without moving the engine up way too high and you can't change the position of the catalytic convertor as it attaches to the manifold per most SMOG referees. The cars tend to have much more compact manifolds and cats. Also you will need the car low profile transmission pan to clear the front shaft.
 
While the GM motor is fine , there is a new Cummins perfect for this vehicle. And it is highly supported. Cummins 2.8.

cummins.PNG
 
In CA you will need to get approval by a REFEREE for a engine that wasn't available in your Make/Model (Like on a jeep you CAN swap a 2.5L 4cyl for a 4.0L I6 if they were both offered in the same vehicle new from the factory, assuming same year and all equipment was in place)

Also worth noting you MUST unstall equal or NEWER engine. not that you plan to, but a 60's era V8 or F engine would violate the law.

For me, its not worth it. I only buy 75' or older classics in Cali, or just accept what my rigs are for what they are.

its unfortunate, but to have ZERO regulation on a pre '76 is just too appealing. This is why I ended up with my '71

Remember when you swap in a newer motor, and get it approved by a referee, it will STILL need to be smogged every 2 years...
 
The price point on that Cummins is damn near outrageous...IMO
 
If you haven't already explored this site, I would encourage you to do so. The complications can be as mundane as using LS exhaust manifolds on an LM engine, or which aftermarket parts are allowed on which engine. While they may fit, the question is: will the BAR referee and the rules allow them? You need to know the factual answers before forking out the cash. Take your documentation to the referee station when you get to that point.

https://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php
 
I don't know how up to date this info is but when I put a SBC in my '73 back in the mid 80's (lived in So. Cal. at the time) I used a '73 Chevy donor vehicle. By that I mean that I needed all the smog equipment that was present on the same year vehicle I was swaping the motor from. So take a look at what smog equipment was on a '78 Chevy and you will get an idea for what is needed. The first few years I had to return to the referee station for smog checks until they made me a new plate listing my vehicle as having a 350 cu. in. motor with air pump, EGR valve etc. so a regular testing station could test it.

As far as cost goes it all depends on what parts you use.
 
The price point on that Cummins is damn near outrageous...IMO


Well, I suppose that is subjective. Cummins is a very good engine and will probably go somewhere between 500,000 and 1,000,000 miles. I know an LS will not do that without large issues. I know that for the price you can say just put another engine in it , but some people want the long term reliability of a single engine.

Comparing some turnkey crate engines like an LS , it is actually pretty close in price to the cummins. The Cummins is turnkey as well.


ls.PNG
 
As far a know that engine is not 50 states legal.....
Also, the kit to install that engine under your rig just about doubles the price.... I'm thinking this is due to it being a new toy in the market place....

I installed a used Gen lll engine/ tranny from eBay.... some 11 years ago..... i have travel well over 130k on it..... All for 3k... !!

if it was to go out.. i would probably rebuild it, and, or put a late model LS in it..... that would be the cheapest and most practical thing to do.... these engines rock...
 
Read the site @reddingcruiser mentioned above.
Call Georg at Valley Hybrids (650) 576-2023. He has done smog legal swaps successfully. You may even want to have him do it for you.
Then decide what you want to do.
 
Thanks for all the info. Keep it coming. I'll be going to the junk yard sometime this week to look for possible engines. My budget isn't that big maybe 4-5k give or take, also since I'm still sorta new at this stuff a engine that'll be easy to install would be best.
Another thing on my mind is the wiring harness. How am I going to make the new one compatible with all the gauge's and other old electrical stuff in the cruiser?
 
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The new harness will be standalone, and doesn’t integrate with the existing wiring.

To make the stock gauges work, you can put the temp & oil pressure senders from the old motor into the new one. The rest will still work.

For accurately checking of the vitals, you’ll want to put a scan gauge in the glove box or get an OBD dongle and a phone app.

The engine & transmission, harness (if you buy a new one), and adapter are the big ticket items. The rest adds up quickly!
 
Howell EFI harnesses are 50 - state legal for smog, others may be as well.

I've mentioned this in other threads, but you may consider having the PCM "reprogrammed" to delete non-essential items such as door alarms, ABS, seat belts, etc. to avoid a life time of error codes from sensors that no longer exist.
 
Try this thread (Warning: shameless plug). 2x on the in-tank pump. In-line pumps are prone to heating, and that shortens their life expectancy. That's why the OEM pumps for fuel injection systems are in the tank.

My LM7/4L60e Build
 

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