cable locker adjustments
- Thread starter rick_d
- Start date
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Have a rig in the shop with lockers, will look it over tomorrow morning and get back to you tomorrow night.
You have probably ready tried this but have you tried using something like a crowbar to push in and disengage the actuations lever?
Just a shortern solution but it would allow you to drive the cruiser tomorrow if need be.
Just a shortern solution but it would allow you to drive the cruiser tomorrow if need be.
drive it locked who cares. least its working right?
That doesn't make sense- if it was working, it would be lock and unlock.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Did you do that PacToy recomend . ? try to unlock manual ? just to know i fthe hole lcoker engage and disengage mechanism still funtion fine ..
- Thread starter
- #8
so the rear won't disengage by about 1cm swing on the diff side lever arm (actual push back on cable toward the diff). I was going to spend some time this late afternoon on it, but the batteries were doa and had to deal with them first.
looks like there are nuts under the lever (dash side) that provide some adjustment. I'll try getting the slop out of them in the am.
looks like there are nuts under the lever (dash side) that provide some adjustment. I'll try getting the slop out of them in the am.
Rick,
You can engage and dis-engage your cable lockers with a crowbar or a hefty flathead screwdriver. If you really, really can't make it happen this way AFTER you lifted both rear wheels off the ground then you have something really wrong. I don't see that happening as the cables lockers are bullet proof and can always be man handled via the dis-engage/engage lever.
I don't see that happening but it can always happen. Many(not really but a few) wheelers that I know of don't even run the cables but just engage and dis-engage in this fasion. It works. If it is not working for you, you have major problems internally.
Please keep us posted. this is unusual if as described.
Good Luck,
Randy
- Thread starter
- #10
History:
I bought a set of used cable lockers from G&S last year (?) installed in a rolling sheet xJ74 metal carcass. The xJ74 carcass went to a friend, and I drove to his place and installed the axles in the summer. I had not been able to hook the cables up until the last few weeks and did not conduct the final install until a few days ago.
Problem:
The cables and lockers were factory installed in another frame and transported to my truck. Errors in dimensions, age, PO's misguided adjustments, something- made the rear locker cable once installed in my truck not fit right. The lever arm on the diff actuator was not disengaging by approx 1 cm of throw. For troubleshooting, I did pry the lever to cut off the locking cog by hand. Only when fully shut is a mechanical advantage system needed to break the lock. I had asked for the Owners manual adjustment information as the FSM for north america has nothing.
Solution:
The cab lever handle to cable attachment is via a locking pin (with hoop bent, so they are reusable), washer, a plastic inner bushing, and the cable end which is an eye ring. A 10mm nut locks the eye to the main cable cover. Loosen the 10mm nut. Remove the locking pin and washer and slide the eye/bushing combo off the handle. I needed "positive" cable action on the other end of the cable so I guessed with 8 half turns "out" on the eye ring. I replaced in reverse order and went for a test run. I am disengaging now, but takes a little more time that I expect- so back out after a little more coffee to do two more turns to get things absolute.
I bought a set of used cable lockers from G&S last year (?) installed in a rolling sheet xJ74 metal carcass. The xJ74 carcass went to a friend, and I drove to his place and installed the axles in the summer. I had not been able to hook the cables up until the last few weeks and did not conduct the final install until a few days ago.
Problem:
The cables and lockers were factory installed in another frame and transported to my truck. Errors in dimensions, age, PO's misguided adjustments, something- made the rear locker cable once installed in my truck not fit right. The lever arm on the diff actuator was not disengaging by approx 1 cm of throw. For troubleshooting, I did pry the lever to cut off the locking cog by hand. Only when fully shut is a mechanical advantage system needed to break the lock. I had asked for the Owners manual adjustment information as the FSM for north america has nothing.
Solution:
The cab lever handle to cable attachment is via a locking pin (with hoop bent, so they are reusable), washer, a plastic inner bushing, and the cable end which is an eye ring. A 10mm nut locks the eye to the main cable cover. Loosen the 10mm nut. Remove the locking pin and washer and slide the eye/bushing combo off the handle. I needed "positive" cable action on the other end of the cable so I guessed with 8 half turns "out" on the eye ring. I replaced in reverse order and went for a test run. I am disengaging now, but takes a little more time that I expect- so back out after a little more coffee to do two more turns to get things absolute.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
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- 558
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- 8,122
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- Kamloops, BC Canada
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- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
I was out playing in the 61 and the cable locker ulocks quite quickly in comarision to the elocker, it appears?
crushers
post ho
an e/locker takes a couple seconds to activate and unless the 2 big teeth are aligned it won't lock...simally if there is bindage on the teeth the e/locker will disengage elec but untill the bindage is gone the teeth will stay engaged...
stupid question... did you change your right hand drive shaft?
the original drive shaft is short of spline for your locker ring...
the original drive shaft is short of spline for your locker ring...
