Yup, I had the sticker warning label on mine and the tech blew right through it and broke the linkage. There are so many warnings on everything now they have become meaningless.
Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ttrmike
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I got out of my voluntary self quarantine this week and took my LC to a dealer to have the fresh/recirc flap fixed. They charged me $88 to diagnose what I told them was wrong......another dealer broke the mechanism while changing the filter. They said it would be a $2500 plus tax and shop fees repair. Toyota won’t pay for it under my 8/125K Toyota Vehicle Service Agreement because it was damaged, not a defect. I will not take the truck back to the dealer that broke it because over the years they have proved to be incompetent and dishonest. I’m mad at myself for ever letting the first dealer touch the truck. No way would I let them take apart the dash. I told the dealer I worked with today I had no idea it was that costly a repair and would need to try a fix myself before spending that kind of money. So, $88, half a tank of gas, and a days worth of driving time poorer, I’m back to reading the repair threads on this mess on Mud this evening hoping to figure out a permanent fix. In the meantime, my ‘17 LC with only 45,000 miles is stuck in recirc mode because some tech blew right through the sticker I had on the door saying to put the system in recirc. If I come up with something creative for a fix, I’ll post photos because I’m certain I won’t be the last owner to have an ignorant tech do $2500+ in damage in 2 seconds changing a $20 filter.
As an update. My 5 minute epoxy fix for the door is still working great.
How did you reach the epoxy in there? What kind did you use? Was your flap connection completely fractured?
I want to do this on my 2014....
Thanks. I already ordered and received the good 2-part 3M (primer and glue) stuff I learned about earlier in this thread in anticipation of Toyota denying my "claim". And sure, enough, today they denied any help with the fix, stating it was the responsibility of the dealer that broke it. I suppose that's true, but since I refuse to take my LC back to that dealer, I'm on my own. In the next couple days I'll get into it and see what all is broken. So far, I can see the door hinge is cracked apart, but there may be other damage. This thread and the other poll thread will be invaluable to guide me.
I used the 5 minute epoxy referenced earlier in this thread. With the self mixing tube extension, its plenty long enough to get to the joint with the glove box empty. Make sure you get it where it needs to go inside the joint and don't bond the lid to the box bottom. Have a few q-tips handy. Literally took some contact cleaner to remove the lube on the joint, 30 seconds to shoot the epoxy, 5 minutes to clean up and make sure the epoxy stayed where it belonged. Been through 100*F+ summers and -20*F winters in Colorado. No issues whatsoever. My joint was completely broken on the side by the actuator. Flap was just flopping around. Epoxied in correct position and all good.
I’m bloodied, double pissed, and successful. Bloodied because some of those plastic and metal edges in the HVAC blend door interior are sharp and part of the time I couldn't wear gloves. Double pissed because 1) I spent an entire day fixing damage done (and denied) in seconds by an ignorant dealer service tech and 2) because Toyota corporate could not have cared less (even on a ’17 covered by both maintenance and service agreements with TFS). And successful because I have a repaired and reinforced recirc/fresh blend door hinge/mechanism that works perfectly. The bushes outside my garage door are defoliated from the cursing during the repair.
Kudos in spades to MUD members who pioneered fixes and took the time to post. I used the posted technique of cutting a small triangle out of the left hand filter frame (tiny hacksaw with 1/4” strokes) to remove the blend door and the 2 part Scotch Weld posted on MUD to glue broken parts back together, with reinforcements. Mine was one of the worst cases I’ve seen from the standpoint of damage. What I have now is likely stronger than the original.
There are only 2 long term damages. One is my 35 year relationship with Toyota. Mistakes I can live with…..we all screw up. Not caring and denial is another thing. The other damage is to the service history of my truck. The second dealer who confirmed the damage for Toyota corporate and estimated a $2500 repair wrote the diagnosis in the service history. I’ll add my own record about it being fixed into My Toyota but future buyers who look only at dealer service records will wonder why it was seemingly not fixed.
Anyway, it’s done and I sure appreciate MUD. The repair was SO MUCH easier with the threads and posts of others. Thank you.
Kudos in spades to MUD members who pioneered fixes and took the time to post. I used the posted technique of cutting a small triangle out of the left hand filter frame (tiny hacksaw with 1/4” strokes) to remove the blend door and the 2 part Scotch Weld posted on MUD to glue broken parts back together, with reinforcements. Mine was one of the worst cases I’ve seen from the standpoint of damage. What I have now is likely stronger than the original.
There are only 2 long term damages. One is my 35 year relationship with Toyota. Mistakes I can live with…..we all screw up. Not caring and denial is another thing. The other damage is to the service history of my truck. The second dealer who confirmed the damage for Toyota corporate and estimated a $2500 repair wrote the diagnosis in the service history. I’ll add my own record about it being fixed into My Toyota but future buyers who look only at dealer service records will wonder why it was seemingly not fixed.
Anyway, it’s done and I sure appreciate MUD. The repair was SO MUCH easier with the threads and posts of others. Thank you.
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Sorry to hear this.
I put the battery to my dash cams in front of the hvac access door along with a note stating there are"expensive electronics that can only be moved by the owner."
Update 09/20/20:
When I took the cruiser a few weeks ago for the seat-belt recall, I told the Toyota service rep to not check any fluids, tire pressure, or air filters. He asked why. I told him besides the fact if someone else fills a fluid then I can't track who much is filled, the hvac cover can easily be broken. He understood the hvac cover issue and said nothing will be done but the recall. We were both happy.
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My 13’s Flappy door will close, but not open. I can lift it open easily and then it closes with the button. Only half broken. Anyone else have this situation?
The control mechanism could allow for this if the hole where the flat-sided control pin goes in is only cracked on one side. That type of break might make it easier to fix in place? You can see the mechanism if you put the HVAC in recirc, remove the filter, and get a flashlight on the right side of the filter tray about halfway down. Watch what happens when you change from recirc to fresh and see what's cracked/broken.
Question for this group...especially those who have ventured into fixing this issue.
After realizing that my recirc door was not functioning, I realized that the right side pin was actually missing. When taking the access door off below the glove box , low and behold the pin fell out. Any experience on how to reconnect? Easy fix? Luckily my door hinge doesn't look broken, so if I can get this reconnected I hope I'll be back in business.
After realizing that my recirc door was not functioning, I realized that the right side pin was actually missing. When taking the access door off below the glove box , low and behold the pin fell out. Any experience on how to reconnect? Easy fix? Luckily my door hinge doesn't look broken, so if I can get this reconnected I hope I'll be back in business.
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The good news is the pin-lever is intact. If the parts that this pin connects with are also intact, then it should all go back together in good order.
Step 1: remove the front bumper, engine, firewall, and a/c lines....
This happened to me when I forced upon the hvac flap noy knowing the consequences. After you repair this, I highly recommend you put a small sign in front of the access panel to prevent any mechanic from accessing the area. I have my dash cams battery in front of the access panel with a sign telling mechanics to keep out.
I was able to re-attach the pin to the flap by only removing the access panel. I might have used a long screw driver to line things up, but there are no special tools required. It took me about an hour. Inspect the holes where the pin is attached to, along with where the flap should be (according to the switch on the dash), so you know exactly how it should all fit before you begin.
This is frustrating. Many here have walked this road... and survived!
bloc
SILVER Star
I’ve said this a bunch but it is worth repeating, if you bring your cruiser or LX in for service lock the glove box and keep the key blade with you. This way they physically can’t get access to do the damage in the first place. Some techs will barge right past warning labels.
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Yes, much better way to go, and a good reminder for me.
You’ve likely figured this out long ago @Sandroad but for others, that wire sits on top of the lowest panel removed from under the glove box. There are two secure locations for the wiring to be placed, one at the end and one where the foam is wrapped further up the wire.
There is also another shorter wire connected to the passenger footwell light in that panel too.
That is if my memory is correct from the last time I was in there.
Being a relatively new owner to the 200, I was ignorant enough to think 'it's just a filter, what can go wrong?' and forced the door open thinking it was just flap to house the cabin filter.
Took car to Toyota for ac issue who diagnosed this issue which is unrelated.
Took glove box out last night and discovered I wasn't as lucky as some and the whole bottom part of my door is broken off and missing.
Thinking I could maybe 3d print a new door, I gave up on that idea as I don't have a 3d printer.
I used the next thing I could think of. Being a sparky, I have plenty laying around.
Single strand on 10mm2 copper molded to shape and reinforce the broken insert.
Seems to be working. Gave additional support with silicone.
Hopefully it holds. Should have read the warning sticker on the first flappy bit
Took car to Toyota for ac issue who diagnosed this issue which is unrelated.
Took glove box out last night and discovered I wasn't as lucky as some and the whole bottom part of my door is broken off and missing.
Thinking I could maybe 3d print a new door, I gave up on that idea as I don't have a 3d printer.
I used the next thing I could think of. Being a sparky, I have plenty laying around.
Single strand on 10mm2 copper molded to shape and reinforce the broken insert.
Seems to be working. Gave additional support with silicone.
Hopefully it holds. Should have read the warning sticker on the first flappy bit
