Well I can't believe I sold The King (2001LC Thunder Cloud NO NAV ), He's be with me near 14 years and has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had the pleasure of owning & driving.
When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most, like what's failing" they said nothing just PM stuff. I asked the Service manager, he said same, only PM stuff. I asked a Toyota shop foreman, and again only PM stuff. That held true for the most part over the years, say two TSB's.
I had a Toyota Dealer replace of fluids as they replaced one exhaust manifold (TSB)(PO had other done). A year later I had buzzing sound when e-brake on. Dealer fix by replacing left cowling Junction block (TSB). Neither the exhaust manifold nor the Junction was paid for by me
Shortly after buying The King, I had a few holes in the leather repaired, paint less dent work done, a minor dent in drives door repaired. Non of which can any sign of be found today. A few years later I had to replace the antenna mast. Other than that I can't think of much else other than PM stuff for the most part. Except maybe drive belt Idler & tensioner bearings which is kind of a PM item. I did replaced both front o2's, but they weren't bad. I was looking for reason MPG was dropping. MPG is great for 2UZ-fe 4sp, better than most report at ~15 long term average, but dropping form 16+ MPG over time. Someone here suggested I try swapping out o2s so I gave it a try, but didn't make any difference.
I worked to keep well tuned, in part because MPG drop. A drop in MPG indicates engine not running at peak. I also did all PM maintenance items in the SMG that Toyota puts out for the 2001LC, over the next ~120K miles.
After all these years I think I may know why my mileage has drop a bit. It's likely the fuel injector (FI) and fuel pressure regulator (FPR). I don;'t have a CEL nor does Techstrem indicate any issue. But there is not much left it could be, and I've learned poor FI's & FPR function do yield poor MPG. So these aren't some things that need done, but are on my wish list to get done.
Anyway; I had planed on keeping The King for life. But after buying two more series 100, arguably the rarest 100 finds in the lower 48, which stretching my wallet a bit. I decided I'd sell first I received an offer on. @sammybones made me on and offer on The King and deposit has been received, so we've a deal and The King's going to a new home.
I'll use the funds form the sale of The King to restore The Unicorn (07LC w/127K Silver no factory NAV) which promises to be my most interesting restore project to date. It should be very cool for those that like heavy duty mechanic work!
The Black Knight (06LC w/58Grant Black Pearl) will move into shop, in front of the Unicorn, even though it was bought after it. It's the cleanest rig I've ever seen, so I should be able to get it done before winter arrives. Even though it's supper clean, it still will get the full treatment, but I doubt it will need many extras.
But first before new owner take delivery, I wanted to take care of a tiny spot of paint bubbling (rust sign) above windshield on The King. I didn't want it going out of here with a potential problem in the making.
First year I noticed:
A year or two year later:
I scraped the bubbling paint away to see what I'm dealing with:
The windshield is and issues in the 100 series. If any paint bubbling seen, even the tiniest spec if found around windshield you can bet rust is starting to take hold under molding/windshield. The sooner you address the less damage to deal with.
I took mine to a body shop and they said it's not bad enough to deal with,,,wrong. Although rust did not perforate metal "yet" it did leave some pitting once ground out.
Obviously the older the rig the more chance of rust. But it seems this is less of and issue after 2005. I say this not due to age, which obviously plays a roll, but Toyota may have made some adjustment to the manufacturing process. Toyota settled a "rust" class action that only 2005 and up can make a claim from what I've heard. I've notice bare metal chips in paint on the 2006 & 2007 models, don't seem to develop rust as fast as older models. This makes me think Toyota legal team navigated the cut off date carefully.
The argument of why we have windshield rust issue is two sided. One side says it windshield installers, the other states it a design issue. To date, I've only seen in windshield that have been replaced. It's not to say factory installs don't have any issue. It just what I'm seeing is installer nicks paint during removing of urethane with a razor blade. The body has some bump out along roof line under windshield molding and tight spaces along sides and roof line. Any nick not treated, no matter how small, will start the rusting process.
Newer vehicles have been design more open and flat under windshield and around molding. They also have less molding. This make windshield removal easier and less like to be nicked. So design was changed. So do we have a design issue, yes in this respect.
The another design issue has to due with three things: The metal, paint and design. Does the 100 series lend itself to rust around/under windshield organically, perhaps. If those here in mud that have factory windshield report issues with rust or without we would then have data points to gain a better understanding.
You'll see in The King's thread I just started, I'm coating with POR-15. Bye Bye to The King I've not much experience with paint, but POR claims it will not chip or nick. This should stop any future damage from the average install job. It also in encapsulates the metal in a water poor barrier, which stop risk future rust is the thinking.
It has also been said we've a problem in the pinch weld, where the body parts join under the windshield and in the rain gutter. This I did not see any sign of in The King. I've also pulled halve a dozen inside cabin windshield side moldings, and did not see any sign of this.
When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most, like what's failing" they said nothing just PM stuff. I asked the Service manager, he said same, only PM stuff. I asked a Toyota shop foreman, and again only PM stuff. That held true for the most part over the years, say two TSB's.
I had a Toyota Dealer replace of fluids as they replaced one exhaust manifold (TSB)(PO had other done). A year later I had buzzing sound when e-brake on. Dealer fix by replacing left cowling Junction block (TSB). Neither the exhaust manifold nor the Junction was paid for by me
Shortly after buying The King, I had a few holes in the leather repaired, paint less dent work done, a minor dent in drives door repaired. Non of which can any sign of be found today. A few years later I had to replace the antenna mast. Other than that I can't think of much else other than PM stuff for the most part. Except maybe drive belt Idler & tensioner bearings which is kind of a PM item. I did replaced both front o2's, but they weren't bad. I was looking for reason MPG was dropping. MPG is great for 2UZ-fe 4sp, better than most report at ~15 long term average, but dropping form 16+ MPG over time. Someone here suggested I try swapping out o2s so I gave it a try, but didn't make any difference.
I worked to keep well tuned, in part because MPG drop. A drop in MPG indicates engine not running at peak. I also did all PM maintenance items in the SMG that Toyota puts out for the 2001LC, over the next ~120K miles.
After all these years I think I may know why my mileage has drop a bit. It's likely the fuel injector (FI) and fuel pressure regulator (FPR). I don;'t have a CEL nor does Techstrem indicate any issue. But there is not much left it could be, and I've learned poor FI's & FPR function do yield poor MPG. So these aren't some things that need done, but are on my wish list to get done.
Anyway; I had planed on keeping The King for life. But after buying two more series 100, arguably the rarest 100 finds in the lower 48, which stretching my wallet a bit. I decided I'd sell first I received an offer on. @sammybones made me on and offer on The King and deposit has been received, so we've a deal and The King's going to a new home.
I'll use the funds form the sale of The King to restore The Unicorn (07LC w/127K Silver no factory NAV) which promises to be my most interesting restore project to date. It should be very cool for those that like heavy duty mechanic work!
The Black Knight (06LC w/58Grant Black Pearl) will move into shop, in front of the Unicorn, even though it was bought after it. It's the cleanest rig I've ever seen, so I should be able to get it done before winter arrives. Even though it's supper clean, it still will get the full treatment, but I doubt it will need many extras.
But first before new owner take delivery, I wanted to take care of a tiny spot of paint bubbling (rust sign) above windshield on The King. I didn't want it going out of here with a potential problem in the making.
First year I noticed:
A year or two year later:
I scraped the bubbling paint away to see what I'm dealing with:
The windshield is and issues in the 100 series. If any paint bubbling seen, even the tiniest spec if found around windshield you can bet rust is starting to take hold under molding/windshield. The sooner you address the less damage to deal with.
I took mine to a body shop and they said it's not bad enough to deal with,,,wrong. Although rust did not perforate metal "yet" it did leave some pitting once ground out.
Obviously the older the rig the more chance of rust. But it seems this is less of and issue after 2005. I say this not due to age, which obviously plays a roll, but Toyota may have made some adjustment to the manufacturing process. Toyota settled a "rust" class action that only 2005 and up can make a claim from what I've heard. I've notice bare metal chips in paint on the 2006 & 2007 models, don't seem to develop rust as fast as older models. This makes me think Toyota legal team navigated the cut off date carefully.
The argument of why we have windshield rust issue is two sided. One side says it windshield installers, the other states it a design issue. To date, I've only seen in windshield that have been replaced. It's not to say factory installs don't have any issue. It just what I'm seeing is installer nicks paint during removing of urethane with a razor blade. The body has some bump out along roof line under windshield molding and tight spaces along sides and roof line. Any nick not treated, no matter how small, will start the rusting process.
Newer vehicles have been design more open and flat under windshield and around molding. They also have less molding. This make windshield removal easier and less like to be nicked. So design was changed. So do we have a design issue, yes in this respect.
The another design issue has to due with three things: The metal, paint and design. Does the 100 series lend itself to rust around/under windshield organically, perhaps. If those here in mud that have factory windshield report issues with rust or without we would then have data points to gain a better understanding.
You'll see in The King's thread I just started, I'm coating with POR-15. Bye Bye to The King I've not much experience with paint, but POR claims it will not chip or nick. This should stop any future damage from the average install job. It also in encapsulates the metal in a water poor barrier, which stop risk future rust is the thinking.
It has also been said we've a problem in the pinch weld, where the body parts join under the windshield and in the rain gutter. This I did not see any sign of in The King. I've also pulled halve a dozen inside cabin windshield side moldings, and did not see any sign of this.
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