Shows it as a motor on the later models, I would presume they are the same.
Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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Shows it as a motor on the later models, I would presume they are the same.
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- #62
Thank you Adam, very nice of you to say. It was a pleasure dealing with you as well.
Funny, as I think about The King with me over past ~14 years; I rarely if ever used the Radio, Auto climate control or lumbar after first year or so. Once I had seat & steering where confront-able for me, I don't think I touched them again. Maybe it just lack of use like the CDL button, these rig's do like to be used!
One thing I do like with the newer models is the hands free blue tooth, that is a worthwhile upgrade IMHO.
BTW @sammybones: I added the three button garage door opener. I also added cabin air filters face plate (door) behind glove box. The filters in now are newer.
I see same in 01 FSM. FSM also refers to "move forward", and "moves to release". So seems it's a motor moving a support. Not conclusive but does make one think mechanical movement rather than inflate.
Be interesting to see what you find Adam.
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- #63
FWIW: I Just wanted to let those that may be interest to know/see/follow, I've started on a 07LC Unicorn restore project. It has a blown engine I must deal with first!
Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
I'm about to start this windshield repair on my 2000 LC. A few questions for you:
How do you remove the side molding (post #27)? I'm hoping it can be re-used (it's expensive) and will likely be in better shape if I carefully remove it instead of the windshield guy.
That side molding also transitions up onto the roof and up there it is held down with 2-sided tape?
What is the part number of the over-sized rivets (post #37)?
How do you remove the side molding (post #27)? I'm hoping it can be re-used (it's expensive) and will likely be in better shape if I carefully remove it instead of the windshield guy.
That side molding also transitions up onto the roof and up there it is held down with 2-sided tape?
What is the part number of the over-sized rivets (post #37)?
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- #65
You'll see a rubber strip about 1" wide and 24" long under modeling. Pull it out, pulling it over windshield. This will reveal 4 holes in factory molding along sides of windshield. Drill out the rivets or remove screws. Use small drill bits and don't punch or drill holes larger in "A" pillar.
I use a carbon fiber scarper from HF, to slid under model in rain gutter to aid in releasing two sided tape holding it down. Often, installers, will put black poly in the rain gutter to glue down molding, bad idea. I use same scraper to clean black poly, being careful not to damage paint. To re-stick the double sided tape in rain gutter, It must be very clean and paint smooth.
Most will just grab the molding once rivets out and yank up, pulling to release tap or glue. That is fine, but often this will spring the metal back bone of molding. If sprung must be replaced with new OEM ~$150. If good use highend 3M double side tape from body or paint store.
Often installer will pry on "A" pillar to pop out. This is because they do not known how it fasten or it's been glued in. They pry with metal tools and damage the paint and "A" pillar body work. or They damage the rivet holes, pull out leaving a bump that will hold out modeling from fitting flush.
I use a carbon fiber scarper from HF, to slid under model in rain gutter to aid in releasing two sided tape holding it down. Often, installers, will put black poly in the rain gutter to glue down molding, bad idea. I use same scraper to clean black poly, being careful not to damage paint. To re-stick the double sided tape in rain gutter, It must be very clean and paint smooth.
Most will just grab the molding once rivets out and yank up, pulling to release tap or glue. That is fine, but often this will spring the metal back bone of molding. If sprung must be replaced with new OEM ~$150. If good use highend 3M double side tape from body or paint store.
Often installer will pry on "A" pillar to pop out. This is because they do not known how it fasten or it's been glued in. They pry with metal tools and damage the paint and "A" pillar body work. or They damage the rivet holes, pull out leaving a bump that will hold out modeling from fitting flush.
Thanks! And what was the hand-written part number of the oversized rivets in post #37?
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- #67
That was written by Parts counter guy. Looks like 90269-05034. They have a few different size at Toyota/Lexus Dealerships parts. Also the windshield installer have many rivets to choose from.
If holes haven't been drill-out to a large size you'll just order using your VIN # to get stock size. If drilled out you need to match to hole size. If drill out paint the bare metal in hole with either epoxy primer or por-15.
If holes haven't been drill-out to a large size you'll just order using your VIN # to get stock size. If drilled out you need to match to hole size. If drill out paint the bare metal in hole with either epoxy primer or por-15.
I'm facing some windshield rust repair on my Black Garnet Pearl 05 LC100 that I bought in August. Previous owner had a replacement done that was all kinds of messed up.
I need to replace both left and right moldings, and I think I want to replace the parallel moldings in the raingutter. They are a bit hardened and I don't think they are seated properly.
I know you said the part numbers vary on the moldings, and I found the PN for the moldings (left and right) themselves. What I can’t find a number for (or a name descriptor either) is for the strip in the rain gutter next to the molding.
Any guidance on the name or part number for the piece with the star from your picture Of the King?
I need to replace both left and right moldings, and I think I want to replace the parallel moldings in the raingutter. They are a bit hardened and I don't think they are seated properly.
I know you said the part numbers vary on the moldings, and I found the PN for the moldings (left and right) themselves. What I can’t find a number for (or a name descriptor either) is for the strip in the rain gutter next to the molding.
Any guidance on the name or part number for the piece with the star from your picture Of the King?
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
I have the OEM right, left, top and bottom molding in stock with great discount. =)
It’s all one piece/one part.
- Thread starter
- #71
Yep that is one side molding piece, just looks like two in pictures.
But inside the side molding is one more molding. It's just a strip of rubber "L" shaped. It covers rivets. Your old ones should be fine.
But inside the side molding is one more molding. It's just a strip of rubber "L" shaped. It covers rivets. Your old ones should be fine.
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- #72
I may need some. I'm doing at least 3 windshield this winter and spring. Shoot me a price per side.
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One is fine. The other is entirely missing.
Underneath those, there are exactly zero rivets. Monkeys would have done a better replacement job than whoever got hold of this rig previously.
I'm going to need a set of the four pieces here soon, could you send me price and availability? Thanks!
Long story, long...
I recently found water on the DS. I found several places where water was coming in.
I found water coming down the B pillar. I found out that the roof rack bolts were the culprits. When I bought the truck, it had no weather strip. I removed the rack, installed the weather strips and re-sealed all 18 bolts.
Since I fixed that, I found the (2) two rear pop-out windows and rear tailgate were dripping some water (a few drops only). These last three were just twigs/leaves and the seals were not sitting properly.
And lastly the sunroof seal. I ordered the new seal and in the meantime I used vinyl wrapping to seal the rear of the sunroof.
Now... The one I cannot find is one that is leaking behind the DS quarter panel. There's a foam in there that was drenched when I noticed a few drops on the floorboard.
This seems to be recent... There's no rust anywhere and the wiring is all dry. The water is behind the wire loom.
I don't see the windshield being the issue... I may be wrong.
Any ideas? I'm out of them.
I recently found water on the DS. I found several places where water was coming in.
I found water coming down the B pillar. I found out that the roof rack bolts were the culprits. When I bought the truck, it had no weather strip. I removed the rack, installed the weather strips and re-sealed all 18 bolts.
Since I fixed that, I found the (2) two rear pop-out windows and rear tailgate were dripping some water (a few drops only). These last three were just twigs/leaves and the seals were not sitting properly.
And lastly the sunroof seal. I ordered the new seal and in the meantime I used vinyl wrapping to seal the rear of the sunroof.
Now... The one I cannot find is one that is leaking behind the DS quarter panel. There's a foam in there that was drenched when I noticed a few drops on the floorboard.
This seems to be recent... There's no rust anywhere and the wiring is all dry. The water is behind the wire loom.
I don't see the windshield being the issue... I may be wrong.
Any ideas? I'm out of them.
- Thread starter
- #77
"Now... The one I cannot find is one that is leaking behind the DS quarter panel. There's a foam in there that was drenched when I noticed a few drops on the floorboard."
To be clear: DS quarter panel, is very rear fender above and back of rear DS tire.
By having vehicle angled with rear lower than front and run a sprinkler on rear of roof area may help isolate. Than move sprinkler to center roof, then front roof. Repeat with front of vehicle lower, starting at front.
I can only think of 3 places water can enter from getting into the rear 1/4 panel. Assuming sun roof drains have been check for clear flow, and so not puddle around inside of sun roof.
1) Roof rack bolts. With aftermarket roof rack I've added 3M seam sealer. Sealer flows well enough to seep into threads of bolt and seal.
2) Tail lights. They have a seal. if ever removed the foam seal is often damaged. Replace the foam or use butyl. This would only get water into lower area of rear 1/4 and usually not onto carpet. This one can fill the 1/4 tips.
3) Third brake light often leak. Here I replace or use butyl to seal some just seal around it, not removing. This leak well get floor carpet at rear gate wet. Typically we'll see water trail on inside hatch glass.
Inspecting a 100 series for "LEAKS" "Yeaks"
As many of you know, my hobby is to inspect and work on 100 and 200 series. Late last week while I was waiting on brake master cylinder. Another local with an 05LX w/147K stopped by. He doesn't wrench and has been taking his rig to a local Toyota specialty shop and Lexus Dealership to get all...
forum.ih8mud.com
new third upper brake light, would you add a strip of silicone?
Just wondering if I should add a dab of silicone or rtv to a new third upper brake light. I see having this truck long term. I used rtv and silicone to fix last year when I should have just got a new light for 145 dollars in the first place. I takes hours to remove smoothed silicone off paint...
forum.ih8mud.com
Windshield leaks and others testing/inspecting with interior molding off windshield. So you can see the seal of black poly glass to body. Also by foaming around outside boarder of windshield than blowing HP around inside to see if foam bubbles. You can also put blower (leaf blower) in window tape in to seal window and run AC/Heat full blast with outside air circulation in. Anyway you can build pressure inside so that air seascape from leaks. Than soap up or spray windshield glass cleaner foam around windshield and any point that could be a leak.
Yes... Meant the front fender... Sorry.
Good catch.
Good catch.
Paul, Sorry for the confusion.
The water is on the DS footwell.
Excellent information on these two Threads.
The water is on the DS footwell.
Excellent information on these two Threads.
JakeTheSnakeNH
GOLD Star
View attachment 2630727Is that a missing bung in the picture right next to the “59”? Looks like pavement visible below.
