Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (4 Viewers)

[fussychicken]

I’ve read through this thread backwards and forwards a few times and my head hurts. So many different numbers flying around.

So far I’ve seen 6 “rod numbers” mentioned:

• 7850A - This is apparently the one for manual tilt (aka Land Cruisers) (But I think only 1998-2002?)
• 7850B - Another poster says this is identical to 7850A. (But I think only 1998-2002?)
• 7853A - Some people say this is the one needed for power tilt (aka LX 470). (But probably not for 2003+?) This one is ~$120 on ebay.
• 7853B - But some people say this is the same as 7853A. (But probably not for 2003+?) This one is much cheaper, only ~$20 on ebay.
• 2061A - Some people say this is what you find in the 2003+ manual tilt (aka Land Cruisers). It is not clear if this is what 2003+ power tilt needs as well?
• 2061B - I saw a picture in this thread with someone that had a busted B. Probably the same as 2061A? This one can be found on ebay.

And here are the Toyota Part Numbers I’ve seen for the whole assembly:

• 45280-60460: Amayama says for Land Cruiser - 01.1998 - 07.2002
• 45280-60510: Amayama says for LX470 04.1998 - 01.2002
• 45280-60610: Amayama says for Land Cruiser - 08.2002 - 12.2007 (Amayama also says this is for LX470 - 04.2005 - 04.2007. But I did a search on Partsouq for a 2003 LX and it shows this number too)

I think in the end you just have to do like others have mentioned and just pull the rod out and see your rod number. Nevertheless, I feel like we are really close to the “truth” here. Again, PLEASE do your own checking here, but I THINK this might be the decoder ring:

	Rod Number	Toyota Assembly
1998-2002 LC (Manual Tilt)	7850A or 7850B	45280-60460
1998-2002 LX (Power Tilt)	7853A or 7853B	45280-60510
2003+ LC (and probably LX?)	2061A or 2061B	45280-60610

Very open to feedback here! Hopefully we can figure out all the right numbers...

 

[fussychicken]

And just a thought on the difference between the A and B rods. Maybe B means that is the updated rod? Or maybe it means something else... (Maybe something like different suppliers to Toyota?)

This post from a few years ago shows a B rod that is thicker than an A rod. But that might just be coincidence?

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

For anyone needing this later. Ignition Key. Key wouldn't come out of ACC position when got home tonight. I've had it break completely before. Don't want to force turn it and break get key or the cylinder. . I OCD'd about it a few months ago and took it out to locksmith, he said I was good but...

forum.ih8mud.com

And besides, it might not matter as it seems like B rods are snapping too?

 

[arthbkins]

I’ve read through this thread backwards and forwards a few times and my head hurts. So many different numbers flying around.

So far I’ve seen 6 “rod numbers” mentioned:

• 7850B - This is apparently the one for manual tilt (aka Land Cruisers) (But I think only 1998-2002?)
• 7850A - Another poster says this is identical to 7850B. (But I think only 1998-2002?)
• 7853A - Some people say this is the one needed for power tilt (aka LX 470). (But probably not for 2003+?) This one is ~$120 on ebay.
• 7853B - But some people say this is the same as 7853A. (But probably not for 2003+?) This one is much cheaper, only ~$20 on ebay.
• 2061A - Some people say this is what you find in the 2003+ manual tilt (aka Land Cruisers). It is not clear if this is what 2003+ power tilt needs as well?
• 2061B - I saw a picture in this thread with someone that had a busted B

And here are the Toyota Part Numbers I’ve seen for the whole assembly:

• 45280-60460: Amayama says for Land Cruiser - 01.1998 - 07.2002
• 45280-60510: Amayama says for LX470 04.1998 - 01.2002
• 45280-60610: Amayama says for Land Cruiser - 08.2002 - 12.2007 (Amayama also says this is for LX470 - 04.2005 - 04.2007. But I did a search on Partsouq for a 2003 LX and it shows this number too)

I think in the end you just have to do like others have mentioned and just pull the rod out and see your rod number. Nevertheless, I feel like we are really close to the “truth” here. Again, PLEASE do your own checking here, but I THINK this might be the decoder ring:

	Rod Number	Toyota Assembly
1998-2002 LC	7850A or 7850B	45280-60460
1998-2002 LX	7853A or 7853B	45280-60510
2003+ LC (and probably LX?)	2061A or 2061B	45280-60610

Very open to feedback here! Hopefully we can figure out all the right numbers...

@fussychicken Thank you for the effort here! I'd also really like to know the decoder because parts take a long time to arrive and I want to order a backup for my 2003 LX470 but don't know which rod to order.

What I can contribute is that this eBay seller (see link below and image pasted here) claims the difference between rod number 7853A and 7850B is that 7853A is for power adjust steering wheels and 7850B is for manual adjust steering wheels. I messaged the seller a while ago to see if they knew exact rod for my truck and they didn't, they suggested taking it apart to see what's stamped on it. But maybe A is for power adjust steering wheels and B for manual adjust steering wheels.

Fits 98-02 LX 470 /Land Cruiser A/Tilt Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod #7853A | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/363292362697?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-v9vlrzdS-O&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[fussychicken]

Yeah, I think it is pretty clear from other posts that there is a difference between 7850x (A or B) and 7853x (A or B).

But for you with a 2003, it seems like you are going to be 2061x (A or B). That lines up with the Toyota part number which appears to be the same for all 2003+ models.

And yeah, from what I've seen, there doesn't appear to be a "secondary market" on ebay for the 2061A rod, but there does appear to be for the 2061B rod: 2061b toyota for sale | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=2061b+toyota

 

[arthbkins]

Another eBay listing here for a "B" part saying it's only suitable for vehicles with "manually adjustable steering" so another hint that "A" may be for automatic adjustable steering wheels, "B" for manual.

Fits Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod for Toyota or Lexus Stamped #7850B | eBay

Stamped #7850B. Fits Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod for. 1998-2007 Toyota or 1998-2004 Lexus. Lexus LX470 UJ100 1998-2008. Lexus RX300 MCU15 1998-2003. Toyota 1998-2007. Toyota Camry XV40 2006–2011.

www.ebay.com

 

[fussychicken]

I'm actually not sure if the ebay guys are right here. I think what makes that manual is because it is 7850x.

I'm pretty sure looking at photos in this thread that the number is what makes them different between manual and power tilt. I don't think we know the difference between A and B yet.

Post showing A&B as basically the same (but B looks reinforced):

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

For anyone needing this later. Ignition Key. Key wouldn't come out of ACC position when got home tonight. I've had it break completely before. Don't want to force turn it and break get key or the cylinder. . I OCD'd about it a few months ago and took it out to locksmith, he said I was good but...

forum.ih8mud.com

Another post showing A&B as the same:

Ignition switch cam replacement

So where's the best place to pick up a new Cam? Ebay? I thought I heard on a Vid, that there is an updated one that's reinforced, or thicker at the common break point... but all the ebay ones I saw looked the same. Also, is there any difference in Cams from early model to the later ones...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[backhouse]

I'm actually not sure if the ebay guys are right here. I think what makes that manual is because it is 7850x.

I'm pretty sure looking at photos in this thread that the number is what makes them different between manual and power tilt. I don't think we know the difference between A and B yet.

Post showing A&B as basically the same (but B looks reinforced):

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

For anyone needing this later. Ignition Key. Key wouldn't come out of ACC position when got home tonight. I've had it break completely before. Don't want to force turn it and break get key or the cylinder. . I OCD'd about it a few months ago and took it out to locksmith, he said I was good but...

forum.ih8mud.com

Another post showing A&B as the same:

Ignition switch cam replacement

So where's the best place to pick up a new Cam? Ebay? I thought I heard on a Vid, that there is an updated one that's reinforced, or thicker at the common break point... but all the ebay ones I saw looked the same. Also, is there any difference in Cams from early model to the later ones...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[backhouse]

I ordered directly from the lexus dealer for my 2001 LX470 with auto tilt. Here is the part number . It is a toyota branded part and the cylinder is marked "a". it isntalled perfectly in my car. The cylinder I replaced was also stamped A and "skinnier" in places. I have an extra "a" stamped cylinder if anyone needs it!

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
45280-60510​	Upper Bracket​	$219.92​	1​	$219.92​

 

[arthbkins]

Yeah, I think it is pretty clear from other posts that there is a difference between 7850x (A or B) and 7853x (A or B).

But for you with a 2003, it seems like you are going to be 2061x (A or B). That lines up with the Toyota part number which appears to be the same for all 2003+ models.

And yeah, from what I've seen, there doesn't appear to be a "secondary market" on ebay for the 2061A rod, but there does appear to be for the 2061B rod: 2061b toyota for sale | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=2061b+toyota

Another clue, this Amazon listing (see link) for one stamped with "2061B" has a comment from someone saying it worked on their 2003 LX470

https://a.co/d/1QiZ5KR

 

[changingground]

I’ve yet to get the broken pice out, but before I get caught up in installation, here’s a shot of the old, broken piece alongside the new part, extracted from the assembly purchased through PartSouq. Notice the 2061 A on both parts. Also, in the 4th picture, note the thickened rod, just above where the old part snapped. For the record, mine is a 2003 LX470 with power steering wheel adjustment. At first, I didn’t see the way to remove the new rod from the whole assembly. Turns out you grab the brass tab on the rod (inside the lock cylinder) and pulling with light tension as you rotate the rod until the tab fits through the keyed hole in the back- see second picture. I too am disappointed to be throwing away the cast body of the part, but searching via my VIN on the PartSouq database seemed the best way to be sure I was getting the right part.
Time to remove the ductwork and remove the ignition switch so that I can extract the broken bit.

note, edited to show both broken pieces. Fishing the broken end out of the cylinder was not easy or quick. But being without a car, and not relishing the idea of a bike ride across town 10 miles to maybe get a better tool didn’t seem like a good plan.

 

[Live to Ski]

I’ve yet to get the broken pice out, but before I get caught up in installation, here’s a shot of the old, broken piece alongside the new part, extracted from the assembly purchased through PartSouq. Notice the 2061 A on both parts. Also, in the 4th picture, note the thickened rod, just above where the old part snapped. For the record, mine is a 2003 LX470 with power steering wheel adjustment. At first, I didn’t see the way to remove the new rod from the whole assembly. Turns out you grab the brass tab on the rod (inside the lock cylinder) and pulling with light tension as you rotate the rod until the tab fits through the keyed hole in the back- see second picture. I too am disappointed to be throwing away the cast body of the part, but searching via my VIN on the PartSouq database seemed the best way to be sure I was getting the right part.
Time to remove the ductwork and remove the ignition switch so that I can extract the broken bit.

note, edited to show both broken pieces. Fishing the broken end out of the cylinder was not easy or quick. But being without a car, and not relishing the idea of a bike ride across town 10 miles to maybe get a better tool didn’t seem like a good plan.

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that original design indicates to me either a) design to anticipatge vehicle life (200k miles or ?), b) shoddy design work, or c) rushed design work.

stress concentration (at sharp corners) is taught as engineering 101.

I'm going with option a.

that's not my story and i'm not sticking to it

 

[fussychicken]

Nice, thanks for the pictures @changingground! This makes is pretty clear there can be design differences between rods with identical rod numbers. To your point, the new one has a nicer design by the stress point with a smooth ramp up.

This is starting to make me think the difference between A and B might be something like a different supplier or something. Nothing to do with design.

Even with this though, I think my "decoder ring" chart above still stands. You can find either an A or B in your truck, and as long as you stick with the correct rod number, it doesn't matter if you have an A or B.

 

[Red Merle]

Hi Everyone,

I joined this club and I am having a tough time getting the new piece in and I realized that mine must have broken before and now I don't have the larger of the two little springs for the brass plates. Does anyone know where I could get on of those?

 

[Jczajka]

Hi Everyone,

I joined this club and I am having a tough time getting the new piece in and I realized that mine must have broken before and now I don't have the larger of the two little springs for the brass plates. Does anyone know where I could get on of those?

Take apart some pens or mechanical pencils in the house?

Maybe find a used lock that could even be broken.

 

[Red Merle]

Take apart some pens or mechanical pencils in the house?

Maybe find a used lock that could even be broken.

I do have the old one! I couldn't see it in there, but it was!

 

[lesgarten]

Is this something that should be addressed as preventative maintenance? Is the new piece/replacement stronger?

 

[zgfiredude]

I think the jury is out on strength or improvements, but it's a good idea to have on your radar.

I am going to do mine as preventative and save the original unbroken part for an emergency.

 

[Red Merle]

I finally got it done. I had a heck of a time getting the old broken piece out and then getting the new one in all the way. I ended up taking the ignition switch off and that made it easier to get the new one seated properly.

 

[ktmracer01]

I finally got it done. I had a heck of a time getting the old broken piece out and then getting the new one in all the way. I ended up taking the ignition switch off and that made it easier to get the new one seated properly.

That was the best way to go. I don't know why so many guys are afraid of removing the ignition module off the back to get it indexed properly.

 

[Red Merle]

That was the best way to go. I don't know why so many guys are afraid of removing the ignition module off the back to get it indexed properly.

Yeah, it wasn't that bad. I was struggling, partly because I didn't really know what I was doing but also because if you look at the part, It has to go in pretty far and I wasn't able to get it in until I took the switch off. Even then, I had trouble getting the new part in but I eventually got it it to slip right in and then was able to clock it so that it was in the ACC position and then it all went right together. I wasted a lot of time trying to push the little spring loaded tab in the bottom of the of the cylinder aside but as it turned out that really wasn't needed.