Where does the spring go?
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement
- Thread starter chukiechz
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Can you please tell me more about the spring(s) that hold that brass colored clip in. I didnt see any in the old one. Is it just one spring? Where does it go? Thanks
I've gone digging through this thread rabbit hole as well and am on the hunt for a 7850A that I pulled out of my '99 LC, but from everything that I've found no one has discussed what the difference between the A's and B's are. I can find plenty of the B's online through amazon and retail parts dealers, but for the life of me CANNOT find an A - are these interchangeable without the parasitic battery draw? I know I need the rod for the manual tilt, but I can't seem to find a difference between 7850A and 7850B - or a link/search result for an A. I still need to dig out the other piece, but since I now know exactly what I need, I thought I'd start the hunt to purchase it.
I’m going to order this for my 99 LX470. Had the part break tonight.
It’s a tiny little thing the sits below the brass piece. It initially didn’t want to come out of the old rod, but I used a pick tool (that I also used to get the old rod out) to free the spring.
Check the area around where you took the brass out in case it fell out without you noticing maybe?
The purple arrow points to where the spring pushes back on the brass piece.
Good evening. Had this happen today with my 02 LC 100 VX and given location of car at shopping mall in 43Celcius I had to have a key guy help asap.
He ended up removing the whole ignition cylinder and locking mechanism (punched the anti-theft bolts out) and left me with just the switch and the ignition ring that reads the chip in the key so that I could start the car with a screwdriver and limp home.
He's ordering the part (took the VIN and he has been warned about the possibility of Parasitic power drain issue if wrong one used).
What I found worrying and could not find on the thread here, is when we drove home the car had virtually no power, the HVAC system was dead and none of the electric windows worked nor did the car's lights. Any idea why this may be?
When I went back later to the car to see if anything obvious was unplugged, the indicators worked again and the lights, but when I tried to start the car the ignition switch had unfortunately sprung apart (see pictures). But weirdly all electronics that I could work with ignition off, seemed to work now.
Any ideas?
Key guy said he'll try and repair switch first as new one may not be necessary.
And whilst I am bothering you all, does anyone know why the central locking would stop working when it's very warm outside and the car has been in the sun? Apparently there's a module behind the cubby that may be related to this problem?
Thanks for your time!
He ended up removing the whole ignition cylinder and locking mechanism (punched the anti-theft bolts out) and left me with just the switch and the ignition ring that reads the chip in the key so that I could start the car with a screwdriver and limp home.
He's ordering the part (took the VIN and he has been warned about the possibility of Parasitic power drain issue if wrong one used).
What I found worrying and could not find on the thread here, is when we drove home the car had virtually no power, the HVAC system was dead and none of the electric windows worked nor did the car's lights. Any idea why this may be?
When I went back later to the car to see if anything obvious was unplugged, the indicators worked again and the lights, but when I tried to start the car the ignition switch had unfortunately sprung apart (see pictures). But weirdly all electronics that I could work with ignition off, seemed to work now.
Any ideas?
Key guy said he'll try and repair switch first as new one may not be necessary.
And whilst I am bothering you all, does anyone know why the central locking would stop working when it's very warm outside and the car has been in the sun? Apparently there's a module behind the cubby that may be related to this problem?
Thanks for your time!
How did that process work out? My 2000 LX470 ignition wouldn’t turn last night.
I’m curious as to what the timing was from order to arrival with these guys and if you were happy with the part.
Thanks!
Shows out of stock so you might want to hit ebay.
New member here, and just got done with fixing this problem. 2000 LC, 173,000 miles. Much gratitude for all of the advice on here. I never would have been able to complete this without all of your help.
What I learned:
Follow the video. It will get you there.
I did not have to remove the seat or the air duct.
I had to remove the screws completely on the white piece in order to fish out the broken piece. It did not come apart and was very easy to put back in.
Most importantly, for the replacement piece, when I removed my broken one, it was stamped 7850A. I could not find a replacement. The only one I could find was the Turkish one on Amazon stamped 7850B. I decided to try it and it worked perfectly. I still don’t know what the difference is. Total cost, about $30 (20 for the part, and 10 for a new set of picks because I couldn’t find mine). Took me about 2 hours of working time (over several days due to researching the correct part and waiting for the part to be delivered). I worked slow, recording video of every step so I could put it back together again in case it all went bad). I could probably do it in less than 30 minutes now if I had the part on hand, and I am no mechanic. I can, however, follow instructions, and the instructions in the video were fantastic.
Just wanted to post my experience hoping it helps somebody else. Again, a huge thanks to all for your help in getting this done. Well over $1,000 saved in repair costs.
Erik
What I learned:
Follow the video. It will get you there.
I did not have to remove the seat or the air duct.
I had to remove the screws completely on the white piece in order to fish out the broken piece. It did not come apart and was very easy to put back in.
Most importantly, for the replacement piece, when I removed my broken one, it was stamped 7850A. I could not find a replacement. The only one I could find was the Turkish one on Amazon stamped 7850B. I decided to try it and it worked perfectly. I still don’t know what the difference is. Total cost, about $30 (20 for the part, and 10 for a new set of picks because I couldn’t find mine). Took me about 2 hours of working time (over several days due to researching the correct part and waiting for the part to be delivered). I worked slow, recording video of every step so I could put it back together again in case it all went bad). I could probably do it in less than 30 minutes now if I had the part on hand, and I am no mechanic. I can, however, follow instructions, and the instructions in the video were fantastic.
Just wanted to post my experience hoping it helps somebody else. Again, a huge thanks to all for your help in getting this done. Well over $1,000 saved in repair costs.
Erik
The black plug goes to the temperature sensor. The lighted key ring is a smaller white plug.
Thank you, now to find that plug.
Fixed tgat. Back together. No turn signals. Tomorrow.
Any chance you have a write up on the reassembly
of the brass and spring. My smaller srping came out and am not sure how to reassemble. Looking for some straight forward guidance.
When I was removing the brass, my small spring came out and I am not sure how to position it to go back in properly. By chance can you describe it, or do you have any pics showing the process? This is the last bit of info I am needing to reassemble. Any info is welcomed
Any info on switching the brass is welcomed. Looking for where the tiny spring goes, mine came out when was taking it apart. Luckly I found the tiny spring. But I am not sure how it goes back together.
Do you know if the Lexus part is the 7853A instead of the 7853B? I am replacing a broken one out of my 01 LX and it has the 7853B part number on it. My understanding is that this should cause a parasitic draw yet I have not had issues with the battery so....
SOrry dude - I don't remember that detail.
Has anyone else had this happen where the new shaft was put in 180 deg off and locking the steering wheel? Any other input on if I can fix without removing the column such as above?
Thanks
Update. I have a 2003 just so everyone knows, and the cam i bought is the 2061A I believe, but as a assembly from partssoup. As for my question above got into it earlier and just took the back white piece off. Yesterday with the broken cam the job was 4 hours, today it took 45 minutes. I had my ignition in the acc position when i turned car off still. Removed everything and was able to rotate the new cam out with the back white piece removed. (A very helpful youtube video said not to do this, but if you are already up under the dash on your back its not hard to get remove, just make double check orientation of everything before/after). Also once I removed the lock, I turned the cam to the off position which released my locked steering column, then pulled the cam out. Looked it over then put back together and rotated 180 from first position, matched with the white box on back to ACC position and reassembled. I say all this because a forum member said they had to remove the column for this same issue… so i just wanted others to know there is hope to not have to pull the assembly out if you accidentally do this like i did.
I just replaced the ignition barrel rod thingy in my 2001 LX. The broken part I took out was 7853A. The new part that I used the 7853B from Amazon. I needed to file down the tip that inserts into the ignition switch at bottom of barrel and it seems to work fine.
With old rod and white ignition switch in hand, flrst notice the fit and depth of how the old part fit into the ignition. Then file new part cutting down the area shown in red to narrow it a bit to fit like old part. Very easy.
With old rod and white ignition switch in hand, flrst notice the fit and depth of how the old part fit into the ignition. Then file new part cutting down the area shown in red to narrow it a bit to fit like old part. Very easy.
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