Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod Repair - Steering wheel locked

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 21, 2025
Threads
1
Messages
4
Location
San Jose, CA
Car: 2001 Lexus LX470, replacement part 7853B

Turned my key to start my car one day and the ignition lock cylinder barrel rod broke. Was following a video here and got all the way through removing the lodged end of the rod. As I was about to insert the new rod, I turned the wheel to get a better look down the barrel and it locked on me. Now the steering lock will not release. I have tried wiggling the wheel and starting the car with a flathead screwdriver, but the steering lock will not release. I can even start the car, shift it into Drive but I cannot steer or replace the ignition rod.

Does anyone know how to manually unlock the steering lock?

The wheel moves slightly counterclockwise but will not unlock even when the ignition is turned to start the car.

The circled red locking mechanism moves a tiny bit, but not enough to insert the new rod.

IMG_7619.webp


IMG_7618.webp
 
Where are you sourcing your replacement rod? I have been looking for the best recommendation. Common issue, but having trouble understanding the proper part for the solution...
 
Where are you sourcing your replacement rod? I have been looking for the best recommendation. Common issue, but having trouble understanding the proper part for the solution...
BROSSBSP36 Ignition Lock Cylinder... Amazon.com: BSP36 Steering Wheel Ignition Lock Barrel Cylinder Shaft Rod 7853B Compatible With T.oyot.a Land Cruiser 100 L.exu.s LX470 UZJ100 1998-2002 : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A14YCF8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this Amazon part. Works perfectly fine. The reviews are correct that you might have to file some poorly machined parts down, but it’s not difficult to do with a small file.

The fit is exactly right for a 2001 Lx470. Car has been running great. Just make sure your part number is exactly the same. I believe the Land Cruiser might be a slightly different part number. 7853B is for the LX
 
BROSSBSP36 Ignition Lock Cylinder... Amazon.com: BSP36 Steering Wheel Ignition Lock Barrel Cylinder Shaft Rod 7853B Compatible With T.oyot.a Land Cruiser 100 L.exu.s LX470 UZJ100 1998-2002 : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A14YCF8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this Amazon part. Works perfectly fine. The reviews are correct that you might have to file some poorly machined parts down, but it’s not difficult to do with a small file.

The fit is exactly right for a 2001 Lx470. Car has been running great. Just make sure your part number is exactly the same. I believe the Land Cruiser might be a slightly different part number. 7853B is for the LX
I think I need the 7843A, that is the part I am having trouble finding.
 
When using a 90 degree pick to hold the steering wheel lock to the right and clear the way for removing the broken piece down in the cylinder, one can insert a straight pick in the top slot to hold the brass lock over to the right. This allows for removing the broken piece from the bottom of the cylinder... I also found it super helpful to just remove the white cap assembly that does the actual vehicle start...
 
Cylinder rod broke on my 2000 lx. Got the replacement from eBay. Installed new rod and car will turn over but not crank. It’s got similar characteristics to trying to crank the car with a key that is not programmed. Any insight on this? Wondering if maybe the install is wrong? It did give me a little trouble putting the new cylinder back in but I believe it’s correct.
 
Cylinder rod broke on my 2000 lx. Got the replacement from eBay. Installed new rod and car will turn over but not crank. It’s got similar characteristics to trying to crank the car with a key that is not programmed. Any insight on this? Wondering if maybe the install is wrong? It did give me a little trouble putting the new cylinder back in but I believe it’s correct.
Make sure you have the physical key fob next to the plastic piece that glows green. This is the piece that reads the RFID from the fob. Should fix the issue

Make sure you have the physical key fob next to the plastic piece that glows green. This is the piece that reads the RFID from the fob. Should fix the issue
I'm assuming you haven't put everything back together yet and tried to start without the plastic piece around the key hole that reads the fob
 
Make sure you have the physical key fob next to the plastic piece that glows green. This is the piece that reads the RFID from the fob. Should fix the issue


I'm assuming you haven't put everything back together yet and tried to start without the plastic piece around the key hole that reads the fob
Ah yeah I haven’t. I do have the original fob that’s what I’ve been using and no I haven’t put it all back together just put the new rod in then the key cylinder and tried to crank. Didn’t want to put everything back together and it not be right. I’ll throw the ring on this afternoon and see what happens and report back. Thanks
 
Make sure you have the physical key fob next to the plastic piece that glows green. This is the piece that reads the RFID from the fob. Should fix the issue


I'm assuming you haven't put everything back together yet and tried to start without the plastic piece around the key hole that reads the fob
You were right. I put the plastic piece that glows green back on and it crunk right up. Now my only issue is that the wheel lock wants to lock when I turn to the right. Whenever I take the key out I can turn the wheel all the way back to the left to straighten it out. It does not lock with the key out only with the key in even when crunk up.
 
Back
Top Bottom