Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)

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About to attempt this, not the most mechanically gifted person in the world but the youtube video is pretty damn helpful. Also dont want to pay $750 to get it fixed
 
I think I went trough this whole thread, and if I understand correctly, for the 2003 and up LC we need to buy the whole bracket part # 45280-60610 if the rod breaks? No replacement from ebay or other sources? Maybe I missed it, but did any of the aftermarket rods fits a 2005 LC ignition?

Not planning on braking anything, just making sure, since if there's an aftermarket $20 part that can save your a$$ in case the rod breaks, it's a no brainer to carry a spare..
 
Thank you @kingdom77 for the tip on the cut socket. I went to harbor freight and bought the long locking pliers but couldn’t get anywhere near enough torque. This is what mine ended up looking like. 10mm with 2 faces worth of cut out. Part is on order and the fun part is still to come but at least it’s home.

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Mine is a 2003 and there are a couple differences between this one and the one in the video. I’ll take some photos as I work through for others with 2003+

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This is a bitch to get the broken piece out, i was able to rotate it back towards "neutral" if that makes sense but it doesnt budge at all. I am attempting to move that little slide that locks it in but I would expect a little bit of play even with it in place.
 
Does anyone have advice on why the broken piece won't come out? It seems "locked" in. I pulled the white end off like 1/10th of an inch off the rear of the ignition housing.



If anyone runs into this, I took off the white portion on the back of the ignition cylinder and that’s what kept it from coming out. Super easy to put the white part back on too
 
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Y’all are awesome, I got it back up and running. Overall not the worst job once you know what you’re doing.

If anyone has questions about the fix let me know
 
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Dang I just joined the club on this one myself. My daughter heard a sound when she turned the key on our 2003 Land Cruiser with 180000 mi., and then the dreaded key turning freely.

Question I’m trying to answer is will the part 7853B fit 2003 model with auto tilt? All the places I see selling it say it fits 1997-2002.

Rant: This repair is a bit beyond my skill and time so I had truck towed to dealer and told them what the issue was. Service rep says yeah I’ll pass that on to the tech. They “fixed” it by replacing the ignition cylinder, keyed the new cyl to my old key and then were shocked when the truck would not start. Service tech tells me a part inside the ignition assembly is “shattered”. I went down and took a look and the barrel rod is broken in same place as others here have shown. Dealer says they’ve never seen anything like it. Arrrrgh.

Anyway, I’m trying to convince them they can just replace the barrel rod and not replace the entire assembly that connects to the steering column. That would run $1000 or so.

Thanks! I learned a ton about this issue and wish I would have tried the fix myself at home!
 
Dang I just joined the club on this one myself. My daughter heard a sound when she turned the key on our 2003 Land Cruiser with 180000 mi., and then the dreaded key turning freely.

Question I’m trying to answer is will the part 7853B fit 2003 model with auto tilt? All the places I see selling it say it fits 1997-2002.

Rant: This repair is a bit beyond my skill and time so I had truck towed to dealer and told them what the issue was. Service rep says yeah I’ll pass that on to the tech. They “fixed” it by replacing the ignition cylinder, keyed the new cyl to my old key and then were shocked when the truck would not start. Service tech tells me a part inside the ignition assembly is “shattered”. I went down and took a look and the barrel rod is broken in same place as others here have shown. Dealer says they’ve never seen anything like it. Arrrrgh.

Anyway, I’m trying to convince them they can just replace the barrel rod and not replace the entire assembly that connects to the steering column. That would run $1000 or so.

Thanks! I learned a ton about this issue and wish I would have tried the fix myself at home!

If you have a screw driver, a 10mm socket (I think, maybe not) and some long needle nose pliers or hemostats, you can do this yourself.

Take pictures, organize or label fasteners, and follow the step by steps here to replace the rod.

You could buy on of the ebay rods and compare it to the stock one to see if it fits your model.
 
I'm going to add to post #33 for clarity. You do NOT need to remove the plastic white housing on the back of the assembly, just unscrew 1/16" or so. DO NOT screw this housing back tight until you have inserted new rod. I learned this the hard way.

Here's the simple way to avoid the 180 degree off problem. Insert the new rod with brass flange at 12 o'clock.

With needle nose pliers, rotate slightly counter clockwise to seat the nub in the back of housing. Then spin clockwise to 4 or 5 o'clock position. That simple. The proper aligment is the brass flange at the 4 o'clock position. Insert key assembly, and bam, the rig comes to life and you'll know immediately.

You can practice this on the new assembly housing before the real thing, as you own a housing that you won't need. Just play with it to see proper alignment. The steering lock flange is not an issue, you do not need to depress it, even if you could.
I appreciate this post from Porter as accurate. After I finished everything in the main youtube video "LX470 Broken Ignition" For me, I was able to replace the screws one at a time for future by using a socket head cap screw 12 mm length and M4.7 spec (from hardware store). I also practiced putting the cam into the right place as above.

My first challenge was removing the new camshaft from the new steering lock assembly.. by pushing the button that locks the steering in the new part, it loosens the camshaft. https://youtu.be/hSjEVGr7w6k

during the cam removal - finally got that stubborn broken old piece out. I had accidentally locked steering wheel (which then made the inner pin mechanism stuck) which could be unlocked by jerking wheel with pushing in inner pin mechanism. Once done, loosened back screws more, and got old piece out. To get out, its a dark art - but basically used hook tool and just jimmied it until it moved the old broken cam, but took time. It finally went to 90 degrees and finally out. Now for the reassembly part. Patience is key.​

 
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Mine is a 2003 and there are a couple differences between this one and the one in the video. I’ll take some photos as I work through for others with 2003+

View attachment 3305232
What was your solution for replacement of the barrel rod? Toyota is saying that I need this part 69057-60551 the cylinder lock assembly. I can't get a straight answer whether said part number includes the barrel rod. My broken one looks exactly like the one pictured here. See Photo!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to replace it with the strongest one that I can buy. Fortunately, this broke in my garage instead of somewhere else!

image.jpg
 
What was your solution for replacement of the barrel rod? Toyota is saying that I need this part 69057-60551 the cylinder lock assembly. I can't get a straight answer whether said part number includes the barrel rod. My broken one looks exactly like the one pictured here. See Photo!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to replace it with the strongest one that I can buy. Fortunately, this broke in my garage instead of somewhere else!

View attachment 3422791
I had to bite the bullet and bought the whole assembly as I was in tight spot with time short and other projects in spades. Toyota dealership would not replace only the barrel rod, said it was unpossible, my links to this forum notwithstanding. I have the old cylinder lock assembly if you want it, no barrel rod. In Utah. Mine is a 2003.
 
Here’s what I got for my 2000 lx470

This part number is for those of us who have a power telescoping & tilt column. The whole assembly comes with the rod. You can get it from partsouq in about a week from the UAE, that’s where I got mine.
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I just replaced mine this week. Some people say not to remove the ignition module off the back of the assembly, but I had to remove mine so I could get the broken piece indexed properly to remove it. I wasted an hour trying to do it without removing the ignition module. The most difficult part was getting the upper screw back in it to reassemble.
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I had to bite the bullet and bought the whole assembly as I was in tight spot with time short and other projects in spades. Toyota dealership would not replace only the barrel rod, said it was unpossible, my links to this forum notwithstanding. I have the old cylinder lock assembly if you want it, no barrel rod. In Utah. Mine is a 2003.
I just pulled the trigger on the bracket assembly too. $344 at Bell Lexus Scottsdale, AZ. It will be here tomorrow. Camelback Toy was much more expensive.
 
I just replaced mine this week. Some people say not to remove the ignition module off the back of the assembly, but I had to remove mine so I could get the broken piece indexed properly to remove it. I wasted an hour trying to do it without removing the ignition module. The most difficult part was getting the upper screw back in it to reassemble.
View attachment 3422810
same experience here. I had to remove the backing of the white piece.
 
Here’s what you’ll need.

This part number is for those of us who have a power telescoping & told column. The whole assembly comes with the rod. You can get it from partsouq in about a week from the UAE, that’s where I got mine.
View attachment 3422809
For those with a 2003 and up, the part number was 45280-60610, or at least that's what I had to order for mine. The shank part in 60610 was definitely beefier than the original.
 

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