About to attempt this, not the most mechanically gifted person in the world but the youtube video is pretty damn helpful. Also dont want to pay $750 to get it fixed
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It’s a pretty easy fix. Getting the old part out is the hardest part.About to attempt this, not the most mechanically gifted person in the world but the youtube video is pretty damn helpful. Also dont want to pay $750 to get it fixed
Dang I just joined the club on this one myself. My daughter heard a sound when she turned the key on our 2003 Land Cruiser with 180000 mi., and then the dreaded key turning freely.
Question I’m trying to answer is will the part 7853B fit 2003 model with auto tilt? All the places I see selling it say it fits 1997-2002.
Rant: This repair is a bit beyond my skill and time so I had truck towed to dealer and told them what the issue was. Service rep says yeah I’ll pass that on to the tech. They “fixed” it by replacing the ignition cylinder, keyed the new cyl to my old key and then were shocked when the truck would not start. Service tech tells me a part inside the ignition assembly is “shattered”. I went down and took a look and the barrel rod is broken in same place as others here have shown. Dealer says they’ve never seen anything like it. Arrrrgh.
Anyway, I’m trying to convince them they can just replace the barrel rod and not replace the entire assembly that connects to the steering column. That would run $1000 or so.
Thanks! I learned a ton about this issue and wish I would have tried the fix myself at home!
I appreciate this post from Porter as accurate. After I finished everything in the main youtube video "LX470 Broken Ignition" For me, I was able to replace the screws one at a time for future by using a socket head cap screw 12 mm length and M4.7 spec (from hardware store). I also practiced putting the cam into the right place as above.I'm going to add to post #33 for clarity. You do NOT need to remove the plastic white housing on the back of the assembly, just unscrew 1/16" or so. DO NOT screw this housing back tight until you have inserted new rod. I learned this the hard way.
Here's the simple way to avoid the 180 degree off problem. Insert the new rod with brass flange at 12 o'clock.
With needle nose pliers, rotate slightly counter clockwise to seat the nub in the back of housing. Then spin clockwise to 4 or 5 o'clock position. That simple. The proper aligment is the brass flange at the 4 o'clock position. Insert key assembly, and bam, the rig comes to life and you'll know immediately.
You can practice this on the new assembly housing before the real thing, as you own a housing that you won't need. Just play with it to see proper alignment. The steering lock flange is not an issue, you do not need to depress it, even if you could.
What was your solution for replacement of the barrel rod? Toyota is saying that I need this part 69057-60551 the cylinder lock assembly. I can't get a straight answer whether said part number includes the barrel rod. My broken one looks exactly like the one pictured here. See Photo!Mine is a 2003 and there are a couple differences between this one and the one in the video. I’ll take some photos as I work through for others with 2003+
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I had to bite the bullet and bought the whole assembly as I was in tight spot with time short and other projects in spades. Toyota dealership would not replace only the barrel rod, said it was unpossible, my links to this forum notwithstanding. I have the old cylinder lock assembly if you want it, no barrel rod. In Utah. Mine is a 2003.What was your solution for replacement of the barrel rod? Toyota is saying that I need this part 69057-60551 the cylinder lock assembly. I can't get a straight answer whether said part number includes the barrel rod. My broken one looks exactly like the one pictured here. See Photo!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to replace it with the strongest one that I can buy. Fortunately, this broke in my garage instead of somewhere else!
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I just pulled the trigger on the bracket assembly too. $344 at Bell Lexus Scottsdale, AZ. It will be here tomorrow. Camelback Toy was much more expensive.I had to bite the bullet and bought the whole assembly as I was in tight spot with time short and other projects in spades. Toyota dealership would not replace only the barrel rod, said it was unpossible, my links to this forum notwithstanding. I have the old cylinder lock assembly if you want it, no barrel rod. In Utah. Mine is a 2003.
same experience here. I had to remove the backing of the white piece.I just replaced mine this week. Some people say not to remove the ignition module off the back of the assembly, but I had to remove mine so I could get the broken piece indexed properly to remove it. I wasted an hour trying to do it without removing the ignition module. The most difficult part was getting the upper screw back in it to reassemble.
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For those with a 2003 and up, the part number was 45280-60610, or at least that's what I had to order for mine. The shank part in 60610 was definitely beefier than the original.Here’s what you’ll need.
This part number is for those of us who have a power telescoping & told column. The whole assembly comes with the rod. You can get it from partsouq in about a week from the UAE, that’s where I got mine.
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