Bushing Overhaul, Chapter 1 (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter C6H12O6
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Akella
SILVER Star
When i got price quote for these bushings, price was higher than oem set. I read good reviews of these bushings, but i think it is impossible to beat OEM quality and longevity.
But what flexes the best on the trails?
Akella
SILVER Star
How i know OEM Rubber flex the best. correct me if am wrong.
I'd like to see some bottom line $$$ numbers too. I assume my 15 year old, 144,000 mile bushings are due for replacement. I'd like to make the smart choice with replacements. That means price v. longevity as well as ride comfort.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I'm so OCD. I spray the P out of them with silicone every few months.
Akella
SILVER Star
how i remember all bushings were about 400-450. Need to dig into invoices.
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
What was your tab for doing this? I'm inclined to use OEM when I do mine, as I KNOW they will last a long time, and I think the rubber will allow for better flex over Poly. I also hear too many stories about how poly just flat does not last. My truck has 223K on the clock, I assume on the original bushings, I'd really prefer not to do it again...
I don't remember. I did the panhards and rear uppers last year. They were so past done after 20 years. I did all the lowers this month. I also bought all new hardware because I live on the East coast. I had to cut the lower bolts in 3rds to get them out. Luckily the caster bushing spacers were still in reasonable shape and didn't bond to the bolt. I replaced the hardware on those anyway.
With the discounts from your favorite parts guy, it really makes no sense to go aftermarket. Price it out. It's not stuff you replace every year.
I have the 6" Slee kit with Poly bushings in the lower rear arms, and I bought OEM part #48702-60040 to replace them.
Turns out my Lower Slee Arms (Rear) have a bushing diameter of 1.975" and not the 2.185" that the bushings I ordered have.
The bushings with the 1.97" diameter happen to be the Upper Control arms (rear) as part # 48702-60031.
another bit of trivia: I found them on NewEgg.com for 11 bucks a piece. Way better price than the 46 bucks a pop from Mr. T.
Anyone else with these have this issue? to be clear, my arms are a few years old and have the original soft bushings that Slee offered, not the link I pasted above.
AND, they performed awesome thru the Rubicon, or pulling a trailer and at highway speeds. They just didn't outlive my cruiser, nor did I expect them too.
Turns out my Lower Slee Arms (Rear) have a bushing diameter of 1.975" and not the 2.185" that the bushings I ordered have.
The bushings with the 1.97" diameter happen to be the Upper Control arms (rear) as part # 48702-60031.
another bit of trivia: I found them on NewEgg.com for 11 bucks a piece. Way better price than the 46 bucks a pop from Mr. T.
Anyone else with these have this issue? to be clear, my arms are a few years old and have the original soft bushings that Slee offered, not the link I pasted above.
AND, they performed awesome thru the Rubicon, or pulling a trailer and at highway speeds. They just didn't outlive my cruiser, nor did I expect them too.
Did the bushing replacement on my land rover disco...not a job I'd wanna repeat...replaced with OEM rubber...60 ton press and sockets getting launched isn't a good time....truck rode mucho better for it...
As my cruiser sits now I'd tackle it...but the ride seems good enough for me given the big mud terrains....in the near future I'll jump on it
As my cruiser sits now I'd tackle it...but the ride seems good enough for me given the big mud terrains....in the near future I'll jump on it
inkpot
SILVER Star
[QUOTE="another bit of trivia: I found them on NewEgg.com for 11 bucks a piece. Way better price than the 46 bucks a pop from Mr. T. A.[/QUOTE]
Good luck with those bushings from NewEgg. They are FEBEST, NOT OEM. I have tried some inexpensive bushings from several suppliers including RockAuto, and they all fell apart within a year. John
Good luck with those bushings from NewEgg. They are FEBEST, NOT OEM. I have tried some inexpensive bushings from several suppliers including RockAuto, and they all fell apart within a year. John
Beej
GOLD Star
Op, what was the cost of the new bolts after the originals would not tighten? These are really beefy bolts. Did you go back to mr. T or source from the hardware store?
I'm doing all of my rear suspension bushings with OEM. I'd hate to add even more cost to the job although Partsouq was HALF the price the dealer wanted at about $25 a bushing.
Also, do the bushings need to be oriented one way or another?
Nice thread. Thanks for pics.
I'm doing all of my rear suspension bushings with OEM. I'd hate to add even more cost to the job although Partsouq was HALF the price the dealer wanted at about $25 a bushing.
Also, do the bushings need to be oriented one way or another?
Nice thread. Thanks for pics.
The rear lower control arm bushings need to be orientated. Axle side one way and frame side another. It's in the fsm. I don't know about the cost of bolts.
Can you elaborate on the orientation? About to reattach my rear lower control arms. As far as I can tell the bushings are exactly the same except for two small nipples on one side of the bushing.
hoser
SILVER Star
Here...
One thing all owner need to be aware of, seeing as these trucks are now all over 20 years old, and have changed hands who knows how many times, and been worked on by who knows who. When working on these trucks, don't assume any nut, or bolt you remove from your truck is the original correct hardware. The reason I say this, I just helped a friend do a front axle rebuild along with front brakes. When we replaced one of the calipers we had a problem with one of the caliper mounting bolts not wanting to torque to spec. That bolt snapped off, upon inspection we found that "someone" sometime in the past had replaced the correct high strength bolt with a lower strength one. So for your safety it pays to check all your hardware before you reinstall it!
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alia176
SILVER Star
Another thing to remember is that the suspension hardware have bolt heads or flanged nuts with teeth that helps with maintaining the proper torque. So, don't put your socket on those items and loosen. If you do, you'll decrease the ability of that hardware to maintain the correct torque due to the teeth being worn down. The FSM tells you where to put your socket on for loosening/tightening.
