Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss" (7 Viewers)

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Working on the pedal. Saw a similar cut and modification here somewhere on Mud.

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And back to SendCutSend for more parts. This time the pedal adapter. @cruisermatt let me know if you are interested for your one project.

Template from a thin 3d print to prove it out

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SendCutSend will install 1/4-20 studs. Length not representative of the actual 3/4" length they will be.

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Also put on the Eaton relay box for lights, fans, etc.

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Killswitch development complete. Next is implementation. This concept is based on a post from @adamsfly here. I am using OEM relays that arent needed in the LS swap, so it should look OEM under there.


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I am an idiot and figured I could use the relay box for my fans. Turns out the ECM switches ground and the relay box is bussed ground. So the fans get their own setup…

Current list the relay box will be useful for:
  • Fog Lights
  • Offroad lights (TBD)
  • High Beams for new headlights (old harness will trigger relays)
  • Low beams for new headlights
 
Wouldn’t you only need to switch two terminals in that Bussman box to switch the relay triggers?
 
Awesome. How different was your lengths from stock? Did you need the front narrower as well?

I’ll have to measure the stock ones but ended up with a 29.5” front and a 40” rear. Went with the narrow 2” thick wall front based on TW recommendation

Also the front DC has a literal millimeter of clearance :rofl:

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No need for a DC on the front of a 60.


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Based on the angle calcs I did, the axle points nearly directly towards the tcase output, and my tcase output it pointed ~3deg upward. TW agreed DC would be best. That would break the "textbook" traditional driveshaft mantra, but if it works it works 🤷‍♂️

Maybe it doesnt matter as much as I think? Ill let you know if i get vibration issues

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Yes you are correct, but in practice (and
from my experience) there are tons of rigs running around that “should” have a DC according to the chart, but don’t. Virtually all FJ80’s with a basic lift, pretty much every Land Rover defender and discovery, etc. including several of my own. If the joints are in good shape and not an extreme angle it is almost always fine.
You don’t have a lot of angle at all. I guarantee you could put a standard DS in there and be completely fine up to 70-80mph. Not that you should need to in a 62 since they are part-time.
 
Good reference for future dudes doing this effort, thanks Matt. I have some probably wrong, but related axle vibration scars from my TJ jeep days, but those driveshafts are significantly shorter than these.

DC shaft cost about $75 more than the non DC
 
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Worked on A/C today. New condenser and hoses from ColdHose. Fit is great. I cut off the rubber tabs from my toast OEM one, flipped them 90deg, welded flat bar between them. Perfect mounting spot for the universal 16x26. Universal Parallel Flow 16x26 Condenser - https://coldhose.com/products/universal-parallel-flow-16x24-condenser?variant=35532204572832

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Front end looking tidy. I don’t love the PS cooler attachment with their thru zips, but it works. Hoses to the compressor and drier look perfect length


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Right now the compressor clutch output from the stock Toyota harness is going to a hi/lo binary then to the compressor clutch. As far as I know this should work as is. We shall see
 
I don't have many pictures of the after, but fully rebuilt with new foams the blower, heater, and AC boxes. Glad I did too, lots of crap in them.

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Got a Fog light switch from @red66toy CruiserCult, should work perfect.

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ECM mount borrowed from Stoffregen Motorsports. Dude knows how to build a 6Xs.

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Wiring is 90%. Once I get the seat heater harness finalized Ill button this up until I pick a stereo system.......


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