Its weld through in the sense that it will strike an arc. The weld will not be pretty though. Youre doing the right thing welding it bare metal haha
Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss" (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter BurntToast
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Its weld through in the sense that it will strike an arc. The weld will not be pretty though. Youre doing the right thing welding it bare metal haha
- Thread starter
- #262
I think I remembered how to MIG maybe halfway through getting the plates on…. eh they are hot and worked fine. Added two rosette welds cause my engineer brain said to. Hopefully tomorrow will get the engine placement finalized and mounts burned in.
- Thread starter
- #263
Big day for me, long time coming. Engine is in and sitting on its own (minus trans x member TBD design)
thanks to all the guys here that have helped along the way, y’all are amazing
steel it plus a radiator to help dry up
thanks to all the guys here that have helped along the way, y’all are amazing
steel it plus a radiator to help dry up
Hell yeah, man. Looks awesome in there.
I ended up deleting my LSPV as well. Here are a few pics of what I ended up with. Once you get under there and look around it will make sense. I added a manual wildwood proportioning valve up near my master cylinder. Pretty sure @dbbowen told me that he modified an LSPV to be always at a set front/rear distribution, too. Can't remember exactly.
This is looking towards the rear passenger drum/frame rail from in front of the rear axle.
Looking up at the capped tee and new hard line
Oh yeah, on my firstgen 4runner I cut the rod to be about 6 inches to a foot off of the LSPV and disconnected the side from the axle and threw it away. I used an adjustable turnbuckle with an eyelet on one end and a jaw on the other to make it adjustable. I basically drilled a hole in the floorboard of my truck, put a rivnut in there and bolted in an eyelet. I attached the jaw end to the eyelet attached to the floor of the truck, and then i put the rod in the eyelet and welded it so it wouldnt move.
Once thats done you can just turn the body of the turnbuckle to adjust how much bias goes to the front or the rear of your brakes. When you find a good adjustment you like, just put some loctite on the threads of the turnbuckle or tack weld it and it will never change ever. All together it cost me like $10
The one i used was similar to the second one from the left, just like way way way smaller
Once thats done you can just turn the body of the turnbuckle to adjust how much bias goes to the front or the rear of your brakes. When you find a good adjustment you like, just put some loctite on the threads of the turnbuckle or tack weld it and it will never change ever. All together it cost me like $10
The one i used was similar to the second one from the left, just like way way way smaller
- Thread starter
- #268
Started laying out the custom crossmember. Using the old one to get some datums and mocking up placement. Spray painted over the old one onto some butcher paper to get the mounting pattern
Some CAD renderings. Right now its CNC'd plate, welded up.
Some CAD renderings. Right now its CNC'd plate, welded up.
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Why not just use the stock crossmember with the plates I already make? Accomplishes the same thing and will be way more slimmer.
Also, what’s with the boxed-in center tabs on the motor mounts?
Also, what’s with the boxed-in center tabs on the motor mounts?
- Thread starter
- #270
I just like designing stuff. This one drops the same as the factory one. I may end up bailing on the idea but this is what I do in my day job. I'm also brain storming tie-ins for skid plates, etc also.
The box-in was me using an excuse to add minor stiffness where its not even needed to practice my terrible welding skills
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- #271
I’m actively ignoring electrical so I’m painting unnecessary things
And was then tired of old valve covers and brackets being dirty enough that I just bought some
And was then tired of old valve covers and brackets being dirty enough that I just bought some
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
Did you go with holley?
- Thread starter
- #273
Summit, but probably should have gone Holley. I didnt like that the powdercoat on the Summit was in the oring groove. Maybe Holley doesnt do that. If it leaks I'll worry about it then though
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
It’s still in the groove on the holley. Ive had zero issues with it.
- Thread starter
- #275
Good to know but annoying, read any Parker manual on seals and even a student would know not to put that there. Whatever, onto the next problem!
Those look exactly like the holley ones I have too..
All black everything under the hood. Its the only way. I was trying to find someone to Black anodize my radiator and shroud but no one locally in Memphis could do it because it was too big
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- #277
100% anything I can reasonably get to bare metal and cleaned up gets prepped and painted. It’s the only way
Dude those look awesome. I had them in my cart for like 6 months. I had top stop the bleed somewhere, and those didn't make it. Now I am regretting it haha.
Thats lookin tidy. I like the mechanical look of leaving the coil packs exposed. depending on which wire harness you bought. wiring is not that bad. more or less just plug and play.
- Thread starter
- #280
Figured out that with this pan kit you have to knock out a freeze plug from inside the oil pan. So that came off and now we have oil level.
Anyone know if this is stock? I plan to run the 80 rear and upgrades fronts, guess I’ll keep this until I get the new brakes and axle in
Dipping my toes into electrical. Cleaning and re wrapping the t case sensors in Tesa tape
Anyone know if this is stock? I plan to run the 80 rear and upgrades fronts, guess I’ll keep this until I get the new brakes and axle in
Dipping my toes into electrical. Cleaning and re wrapping the t case sensors in Tesa tape
