Bump stops hitting springs (1 Viewer)

[Slomo]

Exactly, I have yet to have vibration with my castor plates but I am sure it is coming. I figure I will use it untill it dies then re-do with a DC.

landtank's idea on the castor plates is an excellent one. I am curious to see if it affects driveline vibration differently than the traditional castor plates. Logic would say no since the end angle is the same but by rotating the axle on a different axis you never know.

 

[landtank]

just to be clear on the DC shaft. The angle at the front axle should be so that there is no angularity at that u-joint, the pinion is straight with the drive shaft. All the angularity is at the Double Cardon joint which automatically makes those two joints equal.

When you are in the 3.5"-4.5" range you are at a sweet spot where you can get the best of both worlds, ideal caster and ideal DC shaft alignment.

The other thing my plate does is rotate the axle on it's center which minimizes the amount of angle at the Double Cardon which further helps reduce possible vibrations.

If your waiting for my truck to have a vibration problem it already happened. 30k miles of improper greasing destroyed the DC. A rebuilt shaft and all is well again.

 

[Slomo]

just to be clear on the DC shaft. The angle at the front axle should be so that there is no angularity at that u-joint, the pinion is straight with the drive shaft. All the angularity is at the Double Cardon joint which automatically makes those two joints equal.

When you are in the 3.5"-4.5" range you are at a sweet spot where you can get the best of both worlds, ideal caster and ideal DC shaft alignment.

I was under the impression that all three ujoints were supposed to be at the same angle to eliminate the vibes. That makes sense, good to know. This also bodes well if I follow through with the 1" spacers I have been considering.

The other thing my plate does is rotate the axle on it's center which minimizes the amount of angle at the Double Cardon which further helps reduce possible vibrations.

Forgot, the axis would indeed be different.

If your waiting for my truck to have a vibration problem it already happened. 30k miles of improper greasing destroyed the DC. A rebuilt shaft and all is well again.

I was refering to mine to having the vibration problem since I am procrastinating on the DC front shaft untill I absolutely have to. Makes your plates sound even better than they already did.

 

[Lugboot]

I obviously need to spend some time laying under my truck on a creeper. Now I am wondering how my current driveshaft config is looking compared to where it will go when the caster is corrected. This is fun--I'm learning new stuff every day.

On another note, XXXR installed MAF drop brackets and he says the truck drives better but he will be getting caster readings. That should tell the story. I'm curious to see if the MAF brackets and Toyota bushings will result in a truck back within caster specs. He was at my readings of near zero caster with the OME CC bushings as well.

This discussion is definitely helping me be prepared for possible scenarios post-caster correction. Thanks again, guys.

 

[alia176]

I had the same rubbing problem on both the front Slee 4" springs using caster plates. Simple solution is to grind the offending lip in question!

Here's the area where rubbing took place:

The offending lip (grind the area between the two tick marks):

Ground lip:

No more rubbing on spring compression.

 

[landtank]

that's all well and good Alia but it's like having a sticky door in an old house.

The foundation has settled some and instead of jacking up the house to correct it you start cutting the top of the door off at an angle.

If that works for you great, but it points to an underlying issue with how the spring perches are aligned to one another and how the spring operates through it's range of motion.

 

[alia176]

that's all well and good Alia but it's like having a sticky door in an old house.

The foundation has settled some and instead of jacking up the house to correct it you start cutting the top of the door off at an angle.

If that works for you great, but it points to an underlying issue with how the spring perches are aligned to one another and how the spring operates through it's range of motion.

Rick,

That's the result of using caster plates! These plates twist the axle housing for better caster and this is the side effect. The more caster you want, the closer this lip will come to the spring. You have no other way to fix the rubbage unless you change the way caster correction is addressed.

No, my spring perch plates haven't changed or modified and the bump stop is fine too. Everything is where they're suppose to be just like uncle Toyota designed it. We're just twisting the axle housing while everything else is remaining constant. If you twist the axle housing enough, you'll see a bow in the spring as well.

Let's not open up the "cut and turn" discussion here.

 

[landtank]

I realize this is what you get when installing Slee's plates.