Builds - 1997 FZJ80 in Colorado

[NorCalFJ100]

@ZIFFFZJ80 any info on where to get that? I'm using some double sided adhesive and it keeps coming off!! Haha. I love it being there though. Looks clean and out of the way.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

If you have a 3D printer I can post the stl file

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

The bracket and associated parts for my alternator upgrade arrived from @Photoman today. Looking forward to getting everything installed.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Not a whole lot to report, but I installed a rear power panel in the ARB drawers and swapped out my leaking oil cap.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Today I replaced my old cracked V belts, replaced both idler pulleys, and upgraded to the 150 amp alternator. Those belts were about to let go and I didn’t want to chance it during my upcoming continental divide trip. The new pulleys also eliminated an annoying ticking/tapping noise.

Once I removed the battery box, I was greeted with the POs sketchy wiring job - complete with melting insulation, char marks, and melting relays....

The alternator upgrade was fairly straightforward once I got in there. I can answer any questions for anyone planning on this mod.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Got my Solvefunction front fender caps installed. These seem pretty stout for a 3D printed part and the fit was spot on. Hopefully they'll withstand the test of time.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Finally found the last part to complete my dual filler assembly for the sub tank. I think I have everything at this point and I’m pretty stoked to start piecing everything together.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

I just got back from running the Colorado portion of the “Enchanted Rockies Trail”. It look me about 5 days and I covered over 500 miles of trails. I ended up traveling north to south, starting in RMNP and ending in the great sand dunes. Aside from a couple small little things (cracked and rattling exhaust shield and blew out exhaust gasket), the cruiser performed flawlessly. These are awesome trucks.

 

[SNLC]

I have had multiple awnings. Quick and simple like you got is the best for me. And the price difference between that style and the fancy ones is large.

Cheers

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Yeah, I think I spent just over $100 and it’s held up to wind and rain like a champ.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

While on my trip it became apparent that I needed to extend my rear bump stops and front sway bar brackets. Of course 2/4 rear bolts snapped so most of the time was spend drilling and re tapping.... I also replaced my old OME steering damper with a Fox to round out the rest of my Fox setup. It’s slightly too short and impacts turning radius a little bit.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Yeah, I think I spent just over $100 and it’s held up to wind and rain like a champ.

Which manufacturer? Inquiring minds would like to know.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Yescom on Amazon. No, you won’t get name brand street cred and I’m sure the warranty is non existent, but it’s been fine. Looks like the price went up a bit, but still seems like a decent deal.

 

[ItsBavid]

View attachment 2314110Well here's the final list. I also installed Trailspec hood vents that I had sitting around for a while. Fingers crossed that my oil leak stops.

Replaced all vacuum hoses
Cleaned and painted valve cover
Replaced valve cover gasket
Replaced spark plug tube gaskets (6)
Resealed semicircular camshaft plugs
Cleaned throttle body and passages
Replaced both throttle body heater by-pass hoses
Replaced vacuum check valve
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced spark plug wires
Replaced throttle body gasket
Replaced small water by-pass hoses (3)
Replaced hood struts

Nice work! Do you remember which hood vent kit you got from them? Also was it a straight forward install? You didn't have to cut the supports in the hood right?

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

I believe it’s the only one they sell for the 80 series. It comes with templates, but it’s still a bit nerve racking to cut a giant hole in the hood. I used an air saw. You do cut the supports in the middle. They claim the frame of the vent adds the rigidity back. The adhesive on most of my OEM supports had failed, so it was a bit flexible at first. I had to reattach everything with betaseal and it retained about 85% rigidity.

 

[ItsBavid]

I believe it’s the only one they sell for the 80 series. It comes with templates, but it’s still a bit nerve racking to cut a giant hole in the hood. I used an air saw. You do cut the supports in the middle. They claim the frame of the vent adds the rigidity back. The adhesive on most of my OEM supports had failed, so it was a bit flexible at first. I had to reattach everything with betaseal and it retained about 85% rigidity.

Good to know. I can only imagine how nerve wrecking it is. I'm about to drill a tiny hole for my antenna wire and I'm freaking out about it . TrackSpecs site didn't have Toyota listed so I just searched "Land cruiser" and it popped up. Keep up the good work man! Your 80 looks great

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

I redid my aux fan install this afternoon. I had it wired to an interior switch, but I decided to wire it to the A/C pressure sensor as SUMOTOY did in his ABCs of cooling thread. It works great and the fan stays on after I shutdown the truck for 2-3 minutes as it cools. The aforementioned thread didn’t have any pictures, so I took some of the install

Here is the sensor location behind the drivers headlight.

The connector on the harness has provisions for 4 pins, but only two are used. The sensor has 4 pins. Two are blocked with rubber plugs. In order to install the new terminals, the white retainer needs to be popped straight up. It doesn’t come out.

I have an old wiring harness that i scavenged the terminals from, but now you can wire the relay to the sensor.

On the relay, pin 30 and pin 85 are tied together and go to a fused always on battery source. Pin 87 goes to the positive fan lead, and pin 86 goes to one of the new pressure sensor pins you wired in. It doesn’t matter which one.
Now you tie the other pressure sensor wire and the negative fan lead together and ground to chassis.

As per SUMOTOY, tapping aux fan relay ground into the unused medium pressure will allow aux fan activation at 192psi>. Which means exactly that if high pressure cutout switch is triggered, the fan is still running. It also means when A/C is switched off all together, the fan will drop the condenser down to 156psi, and shut off.

This also acts as an afterrun cooling circuit, since you can use battery power to the relay, not any other switched power. Run the truck to the store, shut it down, the fan runs until the high presssure is down to 156psi, then shuts off (10seconds - 3 minutes depending on how hot the condenser is). Come back out, start the truck, turn on the A/C, instant cold.

Hope that helps anyone looking to do this.

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Not too much to add recently. I’ve gone on a few weekend trips and everything seems to be in top shape. I added a raingler “attic” to help with interior organization. I was also thinking about replacing the heater control valve, but I’m not sure if it’s original. Any way to tell from the pic?

 

[ZIFFFZJ80]

Upgraded to a hard shell tent from Denver Outfitters over the weekend.

Also got a special delivery from South Africa - Escape gear seat covers! Pretty excited to get these installed.

 

[Crush 4]

Upgraded to a hard shell tent from Denver Outfitters over the weekend.
View attachment 2450045

Also got a special delivery from South Africa - Escape gear seat covers! Pretty excited to get these installed.
View attachment 2450044

I’ll be curious about the RTT. What made you choose that one