Otherwise it’s not good for welding
Builds Building the BJZ43 = FJ43 + FJZ80 + BJ75 :)
- Thread starter YoYoHo
- Start date
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- Tags
- fj43 bj43 bj44 fj44 fzj80
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- Thread starter
- #82
I will just section it and box it to suit.
- Thread starter
- #83
Joining the chassis is simple enough just some sectioning, sleeving and boxing. The area will be plenty strong enough when I am done and fit the wheel base I am after.
Tank5
SILVER Star
0p0
I am enjoying following along. I wish I could move through a project this fast. I have to ask though and don't mean to side track the thread. In regards to swapping 80 series suspension on to a 40 series frame, when you say you wouldn't do it again, does that statement have anything to do with the performance after you were done? I have a plan to mount all the 80 series suspension on a 45 chassis I have. I agree that the 80 frame is superior to the 40 series frame. I want to keep the 45 frame with the body to maintain some authenticity. I already have 80 series parts to do this. I also agree or feel that swapping the suspension is going to be more work than swapping a body on an 80 chassis. I am also planning to use 60 width axles, narrowed 80 in the rear and 60 front.
Since you have done this I would really like to hear more about your experience doing this.
done yet? 
- Thread starter
- #86
Ok bit bust in my real job being end of 1/4 etc but did manage to cut some steal and make some adjustments.
What you won't see is the several mock ups and checks and lots of measuring but the end result of the wheel base is done and now I have pulled it apart again to drop on the rails , double check alignment and section / sleeve / fischer plate and weld out.
Once that is done I will remove that horrible ass end bar and mock up the wheel areas to give a better prospective.
All starting to come together
What you won't see is the several mock ups and checks and lots of measuring but the end result of the wheel base is done and now I have pulled it apart again to drop on the rails , double check alignment and section / sleeve / fischer plate and weld out.
Once that is done I will remove that horrible ass end bar and mock up the wheel areas to give a better prospective.
All starting to come together
I'd really appreciate detailed photos of your 3B -> 80 Series engine mounts if you could manage it. keep up the awesome work
- Thread starter
- #88
Sure I will post the DXF's as well when I am done.I'd really appreciate detailed photos of your 3B -> 80 Series engine mounts if you could manage it. keep up the awesome work
Keep up the progress! Really digging the combo!
It was great to meet a fellow Mud member, and thanks again!
It was great to meet a fellow Mud member, and thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #91
Ok so with the wheel base decided I took it outside and pressure cleaned its greasy ass. This baby had so much oil on it that the underside of the carpet was oiled lol. Not good for the 80 series but very good for the chassis .
I must say the Hotsy on Max heat and pressure made short work of the clean up.
I must say the Hotsy on Max heat and pressure made short work of the clean up.
- Thread starter
- #92
From here pictures get a bit scarce as I was in a rush to get the chassis welded out so I could get it back under the body.
Since I was sectioning the chassis to get it to where I wanted I removed the wheels and lifted it onto the fixture table, squared it up, bolted it down, checked it and then took a sheet of 3/16 and made some boxing plates and welded it out as much as I could on the table and then put the wheel back on, moved it back to the lift and lifted it up with the fork lift and welded out the bottom plates.
Luckily I haven't bobbed it yet so the rear over hang worked out sweet. Once I finished welding it out I removed the last of my cross boxing alignments and got ready to do body mounts.
To do this I put the body back on and started measuring again.
This also meant I needed to get the engine and transmission in place so I could get that mocked up. So the mighty 3B came out to play and had its H55 bolted up. At this stage I am using an alloy housing from a later transmission but they are 5 degree off straight and I think that will annoy me so may swap back to cast .
Since I was sectioning the chassis to get it to where I wanted I removed the wheels and lifted it onto the fixture table, squared it up, bolted it down, checked it and then took a sheet of 3/16 and made some boxing plates and welded it out as much as I could on the table and then put the wheel back on, moved it back to the lift and lifted it up with the fork lift and welded out the bottom plates.
Luckily I haven't bobbed it yet so the rear over hang worked out sweet. Once I finished welding it out I removed the last of my cross boxing alignments and got ready to do body mounts.
To do this I put the body back on and started measuring again.
This also meant I needed to get the engine and transmission in place so I could get that mocked up. So the mighty 3B came out to play and had its H55 bolted up. At this stage I am using an alloy housing from a later transmission but they are 5 degree off straight and I think that will annoy me so may swap back to cast .
- Thread starter
- #93
After some measuring which was mainly based on rear of head to fire wall and the required 70mm distance I mocked up some quick off set mounts to hold it in place. As you can see she sits a long way back from the stock FJZ80 Mounts. In fact looking at the pictures they are pretty much in line with my fan belts lol
- Thread starter
- #94
Wit the engine in place I could finally make some front body mounts and get the 43 body in place. Now I looked around a lot and asked a lot of questions but I didnt really like the answers I was getting so I took measurements to fender center again and mocked it up to double check my 900mm to wheel center and front body seam. I was happy with it so time to burn some mounts. Was good to get the FJ43 in its final resting place.
Body mounts are 3/16" HR I still had on the plasma from the Fischer plates and chassis boxing, that'll do
Body mounts are 3/16" HR I still had on the plasma from the Fischer plates and chassis boxing, that'll do
- Thread starter
- #95
So with that done time to turn my attention to the rear body mounts ..... now this is where I hit a bit of a snag lol .......
As I looked into the rear of the tub I found a bit of an issue with getting to the rear body bolts. You see I took them off from underneath with a rattle gun and vise grips. Never really looked in the back. Sure I know it had some PO Love but .....
Seems that love extended to welding tread plate over the damn access holes .... so now it was decision time .... did I just make a hole to get to them and continue on my happy way or did I remove the rear floor and fix it correctly ..
As I looked into the rear of the tub I found a bit of an issue with getting to the rear body bolts. You see I took them off from underneath with a rattle gun and vise grips. Never really looked in the back. Sure I know it had some PO Love but .....
Seems that love extended to welding tread plate over the damn access holes .... so now it was decision time .... did I just make a hole to get to them and continue on my happy way or did I remove the rear floor and fix it correctly ..
- Thread starter
- #96
Well as you can see the PO put in a new fuel sender and to get to it is looks like he cut it out with a drill ... lol
Now as much as I wanted to keep going I knew it would just bug me and I had a few other plans so it was time to play peek a boo ....
Luckily his decision to put the tread plate over it was about as good as his ability to weld it so it wasn't a complete disaster but it did show the rear floor was foo bar and would need to be replaced.
Oh well now I was this far into it I guess I will move some mounts and make some modifications to better suit the rear seat configuration and roll cage feet plates etc etc .
Will it ever end
Now as much as I wanted to keep going I knew it would just bug me and I had a few other plans so it was time to play peek a boo ....
Luckily his decision to put the tread plate over it was about as good as his ability to weld it so it wasn't a complete disaster but it did show the rear floor was foo bar and would need to be replaced.
Oh well now I was this far into it I guess I will move some mounts and make some modifications to better suit the rear seat configuration and roll cage feet plates etc etc .
Will it ever end
- Thread starter
- #97
Just jumping back a few posts I had some questions about the actual shortening the chassis. When I was doing it I had some time constraints and funnily enough didn't really stop to take pictures ( one of the downfall of a smart phone not what you use when you have a leather apron and gloves on lol ) . Anyway I will try and explain it a bit better.
I cut the chassis on a bent part of the chassis and this means nothing would line up. I didn't really care as I was planning on sectioning and boxing. Now it is important to understand you can not MAKE steel so you will always end up with multiple joins and wedges. That is why when I section something like an 80 series chassis which is boxed I always box it as it allows me to get the strength back and spread any fatigue over a larger area.
To box you need to be careful you don't distort or twist so you need to have a weld process and evenly apply welds to pull and push. Again with the 80 series chassis that thing is rock solid so you have very little issue.
I did find one picture of it when I had pulled it in which should show you what it looked like. I then slip internal plates in and weld them then add external plates.
you can see some square plates welded on to hold it and keep it in place. These get removed and where for alignment control while I moved it.
I then draw up the section I want and make some 3/16 plates to box it in.
I literally use the picture profile to trace and scale and then cut that on the plasma, that is why i took the picture.
Having the plasma means I am not constrained to easy shapes so I can just trace the rail profile.
I cut the chassis on a bent part of the chassis and this means nothing would line up. I didn't really care as I was planning on sectioning and boxing. Now it is important to understand you can not MAKE steel so you will always end up with multiple joins and wedges. That is why when I section something like an 80 series chassis which is boxed I always box it as it allows me to get the strength back and spread any fatigue over a larger area.
To box you need to be careful you don't distort or twist so you need to have a weld process and evenly apply welds to pull and push. Again with the 80 series chassis that thing is rock solid so you have very little issue.
I did find one picture of it when I had pulled it in which should show you what it looked like. I then slip internal plates in and weld them then add external plates.
you can see some square plates welded on to hold it and keep it in place. These get removed and where for alignment control while I moved it.
I then draw up the section I want and make some 3/16 plates to box it in.
I literally use the picture profile to trace and scale and then cut that on the plasma, that is why i took the picture.
Having the plasma means I am not constrained to easy shapes so I can just trace the rail profile.
- Thread starter
- #98
Not sure it will help anyone else but happy to send out the cut files, Mud will not let me upload DXF or ZIP Files . Keep in mind they were for my sectioning and are not a CAD model etc. If you look above you will see the areas where the pivot points are cleared. This allows me to weld onto the pivot point welds and thus tie them together.
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Could be interested in the whole interior. Can’t PM you. Lmk.
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Exactly what i did for the fj62 body on fjz80 frame build, except we built an internal sleeve, and then gusset welded it.
result: unless you know where you’re looking, you can’t find the seam.
