Builds Building the BJZ43 = FJ43 + FJZ80 + BJ75 :) (2 Viewers)

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Could be interested in the whole interior. Can’t PM you. Lmk.
Long gone, funnily enough I couldn't give most of it away at the time.
 
Ok gunna take a few weeks off while I do some more side work to fund the next phase of the build.

Have to stick this into something cool and make it go vroom vroom

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1HDT ?

Nice :cool:
 
Ah, the missing crossover pipe threw me off.
 
The plan at this stage is that I will do the SUMO Gears which are on the truck from @cruiseroutfit and then run the BJZ43 and see how it goes. Once I know if I am changing R&P's I will pull the diff's and rebuild them with or without a change. I have 4.56, 4.88 and 5.29's on the shelf and if I need to I will just try them all and find out what makes the 3B the happiest. Same with the Sumo's if I find the 4:1 with the 8% reduction in Hi doesn't work for me I will just pull them and swap to the 3:1 .

Yeah I will keep the 4.11 till I drive it. The sumo gears from


Lol .. yeah to clarify I am Australian and we call what we have at a home a Shed and a Commercial Estate a Shop. So by my standards I have a shed in my yard but I must admit it is probably far from a home setup and I do everything in house from CNC Machining and Plasma Cutting to Powder Coating, Sand Blasting, Mig , Tig etc etc. Although I no longer do it full time I still build a few rides for select people each year.

Sorry if it sounded like I was going to do this in a 2 car garage with the wife yelling at me from the kitchen, I can't even see teh Kitchen from the "Shop " :)
and a sweet Gantry overhead lifting system
 
It has nothing to do with fab skills, if you wanted to use the 40 chassis you would just 3 link the front and 4 link the rear and run coil overs. It would be a complete waste of effort trying to use the 80 series stuff on a 40 chassis as you would have to redo the geometry anyway and nothing to be gained. If you used a stock 80's diff you could avoid radius arm brackets etc but the 80 series suspension geometry in a compromise of what you could do if you didn't use it.

I am using 80 series chassis and suspension to get the additional benefits and strength the chassis as a whole provides not just to get coils.

In regards to the front wheel placement that is just bad work on the builders behalf and not getting center line. The BJZ43 has the front wheel in the exact same place as the stock 40 series . Guys that are putting it to far back usually do it as they are trying to copy what they have seen as far as front body mounts go and there are a number of photos on google that show it in the wrong or deceiving position.

the Center of Axle on a 40 series is 900mm from the front door seam and in factory shackle fwd it only goes fwd from there. With the radius arm front it will have a slightly different arc but the radius arm mount is not to far off the rear fixed end of the leaf pack so apart from leaf compression it is not to far off the same arc.

All that being said the look and feel is a very personnel thing and I have seen a few leaf 40's where people have moved front axles fwd to get a better approach angle and made the car look like s*** yet the owner loved it. I am hopeful the end result of my BJZ43 build will be a fairly well proportioned and ascetically correct build with relatively stock 80 series stuff suck as power steering, sway bars and handling. Of course being 8" or so wider in teh track will be harder to make look right than the wheel base so I accept that will make it look Non 40 .

I guess time will tell and the end results will be judged at the time of completion :)
Reilly liking this build and your thought process. I have all way been of the though it has to look right to be right
 
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I'll likely never have the skills to pull something like this off but subscribed to enjoy it. Thanks for the great follow along!
 
So things are running a little slow but with 80 series number two dieing last night for the other build I snuck back onto the BJZ43 to have a look at the rear bar.

It will be plate design with some lights and tow hitch etc. I will also put side hitches in for recovery points and high lift points.

Still a bit to do but getting there, will be 3/16 HR mainly with some 1/4" and 1/2" mounting flanges.
It will tie into the rear chassis section that is being modified to give more clearance.

Since I am using HR she will just get the mig treatment like the chassis.

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Boss
 

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