Building Bulletproof Axles (8 Viewers)

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Every truck with 'full width' axles has a corresponding skinnier rear. Gm 69.5/67, dodge 67.5/65, ford 69.5/67...

Tighter steering radius. it seemed to help in all my builds except the 'silver bullet' Tacoma which was 72.5/72.5(and sucked balls in the tight stuff).
Do you mean the path taken by the vehicle tends to consume less space? Turning radius should be the same.
 
Do you mean the path taken by the vehicle tends to consume less space? Turning radius should be the same.
Yeah. Drive it in the sand and look at the tires path(es) and measure the radius kinda thing.
 
An increase from 30 spline to 32 spline toy shafts should see an increase in strength of about 20%.

A factory toy 30 spline vs a 300m HT 30 spline is near double in tensile strength.

If you have good functioning reliable Elockers I'd stuff 300m in there and forget about the twisted shaft mess/rumor and hunting down uzj diff parts.

5.29s and 3.1 Tcase gears are as good as it gets(for now). To be honest, that sucks!
 
why'Isay, WHy are your threads always so long whindded and full of priceless bits and bytes of tech???
stay tuned for battery of inquisition of remedial objectivity
 
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5.29s and 3.1 Tcase gears are as good as it gets(for now). To be honest, that sucks!

So the doubler is actually *not* a real thing now? How hard can it be to rig up a planetary gear reduction set?
 
You can't use an fzj rear to make a 63.5" 9.5 front. The ff spindles take up too much of the housing material.

How are the RS housings stupid ? Other than the width potential. They can be cut down to any size? You probably mention this but it's near impossible to read most of your posts without the decoder ring and Delancy semantics handbook:flipoff2:
 
You can't use an fzj rear to make a 63.5" 9.5 front. The ff spindles take up too much of the housing material.

How are the RS housings stupid ? Other than the width potential. They can be cut down to any size? You probably mention this but it's near impossible to read most of your posts without the decoder ring and Delancy semantics handbook:flipoff2:

I'll respond for him.

[Delancy]
What do you mean if thoughts are any, I suppose, pro-bono?

Shouldn't be a thought either way, nay, a consideration. For one I suppose the wizard of California and oracle of Toyotas has to say much about it, if nothing, at all.

Alas, the time for peroration on the topic is nigh'.

Would be a damn shame not to copulate one out anyway. But the better part of me says that's a wasted source of neurons.

Willing to do this right. Going to do it right. Lest others suffer. Same fate.

I'll be back with another panegyric. Give me some time to consider the faults and perfection embodied in the mystery.

Good night
[/Delancy]
 
Nuke-That is funny. I thought it was just me that didn't understand or had missed enough thread to be out of the loop.

Those RS housings are cruiser porn. You gotta find a way to use that for something even if it's a planter on your porch.
 
You gotta find a way to use that for something even if it's a planter on your porch.

Think I've a better plan than gardening, but I'll wait until complete and post a pictorial with only short, improperly punctuated sentences, comprised of misspelled four and five letter words.

Forget the arp's I snapped them twice.... Check out my hub stud upgrade!

Old pro suggested flywheel bolts, which makes sense, if facilities to machine are available.
 
He's actually putting 80 series width axles on his BJ74.

Where?

Have canvassed earth finding only one example, being Carl's.

Is that one of the projects that died?

Axles are one of his favorite topics on our local list.

Good, 'cause @Behemoth60

Lumpy has dragged me over to the 80's section.

Beware the soft, fleshy underbelly, one preferring leather and A/C....
:flipoff2:

Prefer to engage you on this thread, if possible, since my plans are heretical, punishable by a diesel soaked "tied to the stake" burning by your posse.

After researching this topic for... ever... here's the ultimate 80 series based Land Cruiser axles.

Front:
Ruff-stuff housing with full size ring gear.

Check.

image.jpg


Since ARBs aren't Cruiser-ish enough.... Donor diffs.

image.jpg


cryo 'd 4.88's, or 5.29's if that's your style.


H151F
1st 4.081:1
2nd 2.294:1
3rd 1.491:1
4th 1:1
5th .881:1

HF1A
2H 1:1
4H 1:1
4L 2.488:1


Diff Gears
5:29:1

Tires
37s

Final Ratio 2/4H
1st-21.59:1
2nd-12.14:1
3rd-7.89:1
4th-5.29:1
5th-4.7:1

Crawl ratio: 54.06:1

Calculated RPMs at 75mph 3,174.20

Mebbe need 39s to balance it out?

HellFire fabworks knuckles and arms.

Check.....well, Billy cashed mine months ago, at least.

Evolution Machine hydro tie-rod.

You have or know of any with direct experience?

Legal, even?

Tundra brake callipers.

With what MC?

Don't matter. My 80 goods are new, so gonna run what I brung there.

6 dowel hub/axle upgrade.

Hmmm.

Rear:
factory FF 80 series housing.

Factory width?

What was the definitive width on any given setup you completed for a 74?

Rumors (see above) of 80 width, but thinking that died, too, eh?

On one build, saw 60 width with "F Ghey Loser" wheels ( his words, not mine, for you lurking liberals ready to pounce at the mere utterance. As stated elsewhere, in my own defense, I am a lesbian trapped in a mans body, so :flipoff2: )

FJC wheels ~4.5" BS, but you added Sky spacers that appear to be 1-1.5"'thick to clear.

The 4.5" backspacing helps narrow the wide 60 series axles and limits some of the for and aft travel when turning.

Not understanding why this statement is true, with a wide track kit. Why not a 3" BS 17" wheel?

Tech, for reference:

Front
60 WMS-WMS 58.5"
70 WMS-WMS 57"
80 WMS-WMS 63.5"

Rear
60 WMS-WMS 57"
70 WMS-WMS 56"
80 WMS-WMS 63"

So, the WMS-WMS on one of your completed builds should've been 61.5" front with the wide track kit.

With the 63.5" 80 axle, even if one had to go to 18s to offset 4.5 to 5.5" to clearance everything, wouldn't that be a better choice ?

Pics of said 60 axle'd, for visual overhang idear...

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
And an easy question on front axle setup.

If running part time, which would be more beneficial with, say a 4" lift?

image.jpg


image.jpg


Can't imagine there's enough travel to warrant a DC shaft on the front, or rear, but don't know for certain.

If a standard shaft were the choice, is it a safe assumption that the output flange of the diff is perpendicular to the ground?

Translated, can one set the front caster of a standard drive shaft oriented drivelined front axle, BEFORE measuring transfer case output flange angle, safely assuming it's at 90 degrees to level ground?
 

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