Yes, land speeder started it and I finished it, I don't have the links currently
Search " the all toyota 1 ton front axle"
Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Delancy
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Yes, land speeder started it and I finished it, I don't have the links currently
Search " the all toyota 1 ton front axle"
For what it's worth, I've beat on mine pretty hard and have never had an issue... (knock on wood)
And by that, I mean being rejected on a full throttle rock ledge assault, and all the weight landing back down on the rear tires while keeping in the throttle.
Wheel smart, and I don't think you'll have any problems.
*When I first saw your thread title, I immediately thought of the bulletproof axles I had quoted to me earlier this year. They were a bit much.
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- Thread starter
- #23
kbahus said:
or build a buggy.
What brought me to the 80 was deciding that D60s, front and rear, of the FJC was dumb, from an "investment" perspective, and I'd be better off with an 80, or a buggy.
Opted for the 80, and hope to maintain some resemblance to the OE drivetrain.
Already sailing the high seas on the Ship of Theseus, as it is.
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Lumpy has dragged me over to the 80's section.
After researching this topic for... ever... here's the ultimate 80 series based Land Cruiser axles.
Front:
Ruff-stuff housing with full size ring gear.
ARB Locker, cryo'd 4.88's, or 5.29's if that's your style.
Longfield 30 spline axles shafts, birfs and hub gear
HellFire fabworks knuckles and arms.
Evolution Machine hydro tie-rod.
Tundra brake callipers.
6 dowel hub/axle upgrade.
Rear:
factory FF 80 series housing.
Detroit locker
Poly Performance axle shafts.
6 dowel hub/axle upgrade
- Thread starter
- #25
tim.korn.99 said:
Refresh my memory on what you're running, please.
tim.korn.99 said:
Yeah, my planned FJC axles were costly. I bought the LX for 2/3 the cost of them sitting on a pallet at Currie, not including anything besides completed axles ready to link and plumb.
D60s are bulletproof if considering the power plant in the 80.
May rename the thread to "bullet resistant", since that sounds like the approach I'll be taking.
justbecause
perpetually lost.
Sent usin the "new" app.
Wheel it Hard?
"Wheeling it hard" to me means; heavy on the skinny pedal, bouncing on obstacles, basically just being wreckless. Anything can be broken if you "try". Half the fun is making it look easy. I know I know, opinions vary.
Is this wheeling it hard? Stock e-locked axles except for gears.
"Wheeling it hard" to me means; heavy on the skinny pedal, bouncing on obstacles, basically just being wreckless. Anything can be broken if you "try". Half the fun is making it look easy. I know I know, opinions vary.
Is this wheeling it hard? Stock e-locked axles except for gears.
justbecause
perpetually lost.
Wait for some videos of Lorena to get posted and y'all see speeder go woo pow on a hill.
Again
Sent usin the "new" app.
What about using a HP Nissan Patrol 9.5" R&P up front? Apparently this is somewhat popular in competition trucks in Australia.
The whole patrol complete diff slides in and all lines up (coil perches etc).
But this is all based on the idea that patrol diffs are stronger. Nothing ever proven. The reason everyone thinks the cruiser diffs are weak and break (and they do) is mostly because they look small. The other reason is because patrols never came out with full time 4x4. So your cruiser diff has been running and wearing out for 15 years. Under heavy load the crush sleave compresses giving play to the pinion. The teeth dont mesh as deep/or centred. And there goes your diff.
The axles are only as strong as its smallest point. The patrol cv's are larger but the axle reduces in size just before the cv.
The difference in actual diff size can also be retracted back to diff gearing. ie... 9.5" vs 8" against 4.1 vs 5.29.
A propperly built 80 series front diff with longs etc is pretty daymn strong and im yet to see 1 thats properly built break.
FYI, Patrol diffs have a wobble at 80kph that has never been able to be fixed
.Im with you akarilo, lots of people can make the hills and section. The trick is to make it look as easy as possible (while picking the hard lines).
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No. That is just good technique and well within the means of the vehicle. Stock axles should do that for a lifetime with only standard PM.
- Thread starter
- #38
TheBigBoy said:
In my own defense, I didn't have a lot of choice.
I'm too far into the elocked components to go any other direction. If they become a constant issue, will address it then, or grow as accustomed to repairing, as I have CVs on the FJC.
That said, merely upgrading the components and maintaining what I've got, seems like scottyryan (sp?) suggestion is viable.
Cryo'd gears with full on diff and actuator rebuild is already in the works, as are the TC gears and TC refresh.
Already have OE bearings and seals.
Drive shafts and U joints are freshly refurbished, and have already redone the brakes, so sticking with what I've got there, too.
Thinking the Long Super Set up front, Poly's rear,
and Marlin's stud "kit".
Again, can call it bullet resistant, not proof.
Going through Rick's thread again, to see if anything definitive was ever determined.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Your cheapest and best option staying in the stock plus category, is to take Christo's advice. Get a regular non-locker rear axle and use an ARB. Keep the front e-locker, but when you gear it, have a solid spacer installed in place of the pinion crush sleeve. (Just Differentials sells a nice piece for this and it isn't expensive).
Then upgrade the shafts/birfs - Longfields up front, and Polys or stock in the rear.
Install the ARP hub studs front and rear, and do the dowel pin mod as described. Keep everything tight and check before every wheeling day.
That is about as strong as a sort of stock 80 axle is ever going to be.
I'll bet you never break anything, but you are going to spend a bunch of money.
Now the link to Dusty's truck is worth talking about. It's superbuilt with a D60 up front and a D70 in the rear, and I believe he broke the rear D70 if I remember. It's awesome as a wheeling truck, but it's also a massive project.
One disclaimer-I have seen Polys walk out of the axles they were in twice after shearing all the studs. Might have been a fluke, and the individual involved is not known for tightening things up and checking religiously. I have a suspicion that the poly cone washer taper may be slightly off, but I have nothing more than looking at several to back that up.
I think you are on the right track trying to stay stockish with improvements but not wholesale replacements. Once you do that, I'd be looking at a different platform.
Good luck.
Then upgrade the shafts/birfs - Longfields up front, and Polys or stock in the rear.
Install the ARP hub studs front and rear, and do the dowel pin mod as described. Keep everything tight and check before every wheeling day.
That is about as strong as a sort of stock 80 axle is ever going to be.
I'll bet you never break anything, but you are going to spend a bunch of money.
Now the link to Dusty's truck is worth talking about. It's superbuilt with a D60 up front and a D70 in the rear, and I believe he broke the rear D70 if I remember. It's awesome as a wheeling truck, but it's also a massive project.
One disclaimer-I have seen Polys walk out of the axles they were in twice after shearing all the studs. Might have been a fluke, and the individual involved is not known for tightening things up and checking religiously. I have a suspicion that the poly cone washer taper may be slightly off, but I have nothing more than looking at several to back that up.
I think you are on the right track trying to stay stockish with improvements but not wholesale replacements. Once you do that, I'd be looking at a different platform.
Good luck.
Classic.
“The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their place, insomuch that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same.”
