Builds building a landcruiser for overland expedition (10 Viewers)

Should we paint Nulla’s camper cab blue?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • No

    Votes: 8 61.5%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .

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80 axel on a 40 series

Have you checked to see where the suspension will sit on the 80 series axle.
My recollection is that the spring will sit too close to the pumkin .
I think is why we dont all have 80 series axles under our 60 and 70 series.
Ive seen it done on a 75 series but I didnt like the end result too much.

80 axel on a 40 series here the link https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/181289-fj80-axles-under-my-fj40.html i think i will go with the disk brakes.....thanks :bounce::bounce2:
 
80 axel on a 40 series here the link https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/181289-fj80-axles-under-my-fj40.html i think i will go with the disk brakes.....thanks :bounce::bounce2:

You mean like this. Where is the other Ubolt?

steering029.jpg
 
You mean like this. Where is the other Ubolt?

that is the front, i am only planning to replace the rear axel, if you look at the rear axel there is a lot more space. :bounce::bounce2:
 
that is the front, i am only planning to replace the rear axel, if you look at the rear axel there is a lot more space. :bounce::bounce2:

I see,I must have missed that. Will you use spacers on the rear?
 
i went to Specter off road with a tape measure and measured the axles, here are the measurements:
40 series 63"
60 series 65"
80 series 69"
i think i have decided to go with a 80 series, about 6 inch wider than my current axles. i currently have front disk brakes (60 series conversion), what rear brake system would you recommend. my choice are a disk brake and a heavy duty drum brakes. SOR have 80 series rear axel that have 3 inch wide brake drums.

i was not aware of the ifs hubs until they where mention here, i just started researching them, i think i just need about 1 inch each side on the front. what does ifs stands for? they look like spacers that goes behind the hub. what is the advantage between an ifs and a wheel spacers? thanks
:bounce::bounce2:


ifs = independent front suspension

The ifs hubs have their wheel flange outboard compared to solid axle hubs. Have not heard of the brake spacer kits for that setup failing like you hear for bolt on wheel spacers.

Using the 80 rear axle if you go disk brake you may have problems with caliper clearance on most 15" wheels. But the disk axle is a full floater and may be a better choice for a very heavy expo truck like this.

How much wider is the camper portion than the cab? If it's close to the same width as the cab the extra 6" track width might not look right, but it will help stability. Maybe a 60 rear axle would look better and just leave the front end stock 40?
 
ifs = independent front suspension

The ifs hubs have their wheel flange outboard compared to solid axle hubs. Have not heard of the brake spacer kits for that setup failing like you hear for bolt on wheel spacers.

Using the 80 rear axle if you go disk brake you may have problems with caliper clearance on most 15" wheels. But the disk axle is a full floater and may be a better choice for a very heavy expo truck like this.

How much wider is the camper portion than the cab? If it's close to the same width as the cab the extra 6" track width might not look right, but it will help stability. Maybe a 60 rear axle would look better and just leave the front end stock 40?

the cab is much wider, the cab wide is 6.5 inches. i will be ok with a 80 series. i am told that the pumpkin on the 80 series is centered so the drive shaft will be off set when it connects to the transmission, i am concern of the vibration this may create, how did others remedied this off set? i am researching others who have done this on ih8mud, if you know a link let me know.

good info on the 15 inch wheel i will find out about that. i have decided to go disk brakes, i am hoping that this will not be a problem for the wheels. thanks :bounce::bounce2:
 
80 series rear axel on a 40 series - drive shaft alignment

the cab is much wider, the cab wide is 6.5 inches. i will be ok with a 80 series. i am told that the pumpkin on the 80 series is centered so the drive shaft will be off set when it connects to the transmission, i am concern of the vibration this may create, how did others remedied this off set? i am researching others who have done this on ih8mud, if you know a link let me know.
:bounce::bounce2:

Ok, my statement that the differential (pumpkin) is centered on 80 series is wrong. what i really mean is that, the drive shaft from the rear differential to the transmission will not be align, i am told it is about 4 inches to one side. which mean it will not be straight, from the rear differential to the transmission. i am afraid this situation can cause vibration. my cruiser will spend time on the freeways at 65 MPH plus. i know many people that uses their cruises on trails have done this conversion, but what about on the freeway at 65 MPH?.....:bounce::bounce2:
 
Donaldson air filters - installed

sometimes you have to do it 2 to 3 times to get it right (unfortunately) here is the donaldson air filter i just installed. it is rated at 450 CFM, 650 CFM when you take out the safety filter. i am re doing other stuff this weekend i will be posting them as i get them done ...... thanks :bounce::bounce2:
side.webp
rear.webp
over hood.webp
 
1992 range rover front seat - electrical

i am installing 1992 range rover front seat on my build, it came with the wiring harness for both seats. i am trying to figure out how to power them up. i need the wiring diagram or has anyone done this? thanks :bounce::bounce2:
 
How did you find it to work with? I'm interested as I'm thinking of using it on my mini truck.
 
How did you find it to work with? I'm interested as I'm thinking of using it on my mini truck.

it is easy to work with, if you look earlier on my thread i also used it on my fire wall on the engine compartment side. i plan to cover my whole floor with this. then a rubber mat over it. i will place pictures when i am done.... thanks:bounce::bounce2:
 
The sound deadener makes a big difference. I am doing the same, but with RAAMmat, and having only done the floor so far (mat, then their thin layer of foam spray glued on, then vinyl mat) the drop in noise is outstanding.

One trick they offered while installing was to thump areas you've done with the foil/butyl stuff and put another layer on if it resonates. I also did it it in small strips, about 1'x1.5', to make application easier.

Going to do my firewall and all the vertical areas when I get more material in.
 
The sound deadener makes a big difference. I am doing the same, but with RAAMmat, and having only done the floor so far (mat, then their thin layer of foam spray glued on, then vinyl mat) the drop in noise is outstanding.

One trick they offered while installing was to thump areas you've done with the foil/butyl stuff and put another layer on if it resonates. I also did it it in small strips, about 1'x1.5', to make application easier.

Going to do my firewall and all the vertical areas when I get more material in.

I have a half-ass question on the deadener. My truck has a few smallish rust spots on the floor board, driver's side. One you can see thru a 1/2 inch hole. I would at least grind and rust bullet these before laying down sound deadener, but should I really have new material welded in first? That job is what's keeping me from doing the matts.
 
I have a half-ass question on the deadener. My truck has a few smallish rust spots on the floor board, driver's side. One you can see thru a 1/2 inch hole. I would at least grind and rust bullet these before laying down sound deadener, but should I really have new material welded in first? That job is what's keeping me from doing the matts.

if it was me i would first tak weld a sheet metal on the rusted area. i have started doing some minor body work on by cruiser, i went to the metal shop (Bobco) in los angeles. i asked what kind of sheet metal body shop use? they said "hot rolled sheet metal" cause is is soft and it will form. so i got some from their scrap bin for 5 dollars. i think tak weld would be best but if you don't have a welding machine the other option would be to cover a larger area and use sheet metal screw. i am just learning myself and new at this but that is what i would do. :bounce::bounce2:
 
Creeker,

I agree with Rideglobally, but I would say the only way to ensure that rust does not spread under your deadener is to Rhino Line it after you have treated/cut out the rust completely. You will always get some moisture on the floor, even if your roof does not leak (condensation, water crossings, wet feet, etc), and a sound deadener will simply keep the water against the metal without allowing it to evaporate. If you adhere the deadener to the Rhino Line, then I would say you would have almost no worry about rust AND you would get the benefit of the sound deadener.

Cheers,

Josh
 

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