Build your own gas tank? (3 Viewers)

[Chop Shop]

It really is not as big a deal as you are making it. .

I agree.

Thousands of trucks and service rigs have steel fuel tanks. Lots of equipment and things have steel tanks.

From underground fuel storage to commercial lawnmowers they all are steel and hold fuel.

Honestly I dont trust aluminum tanks. They tend to crack over time. (dont tell me they are not supported well) Even when mounted properly and baffled they still tend to crack in spots form the weight of the fuel moving in there.

I have seen tons of scrapped RVs and camp trailers that have busted up or rotted aluminum tanks also. They just dont fare as well as a steel tank.

 

[chicago]

Nooooooooooooo................

LOL!!!

In my defense though...I wanted to be sure before I build it, run it and then have a gummed up fuel system, so you CAN understand the concern.

Any recommendations on a fuel level gauge?
Ill be using aftermarket gauges, and the EZ wire harness. There are two primary possibilities available at Summit...one has an "arm" that floats up or down (cheap), the other looks to be a cylinder with a float in it and has varied lengths you can get.
I know virtually nothing about them.
Havent gotten the gauges, but I suppose the gauge will be dictated by the type of sender I get, right?
Which one would be "better" as far as reliability or accuracy?

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Without any sealant or anything? Just weld it up and run it?
I'd have to assume it did. It was Nasty what had come out of ther! Good thing I got the rig so cheap. Initial investment anyway

We built a 40 tank and 60 series long range tank out of 12 gauge on the bottom and 14 for the sides and top, welded pressure test with about 8psi.


Done

 

[chicago]

I agree.

Thousands of trucks and service rigs have steel fuel tanks. Lots of equipment and things have steel tanks.

From underground fuel storage to commercial lawnmowers they all are steel and hold fuel.

Honestly I dont trust aluminum tanks. They tend to crack over time. (dont tell me they are not supported well) Even when mounted properly and baffled they still tend to crack in spots form the weight of the fuel moving in there.

I have seen tons of scrapped RVs and camp trailers that have busted up or rotted aluminum tanks also. They just dont fare as well as a steel tank.

That is a good point. I had actually read this as well, but again, I was more concerned with the corrosion issue. If im making it a bigger issue than it needs to be then, then I can move on with it with confidence. Im sure I can build a good tank out of steel, so Im pleased to hear Im being paranoid.
This way I can set it how I want it, set the tabs where I need...it just makes everything cheaper and easier for me.

thanks for posting up!

 

[Mace]

what ever sender works with your gauge is best. floating cylinder is typically easier to fit in a non standard tank (but that depends on the tank)

 

[Chop Shop]

Your tank is most likely not visible so this does not apply.

I like to use a couple 90s and clear fuel tubing on fabbed steel tanks that are visible in truggies, buggies and rear mounted cells.

I like to weld a 90 on the top of one of the sides pointing downward, then weld one on the bottom of the same side pointing up and connect them with the clear fuel line.

Now you have a gauge with no gauge or sender or wiring or moving parts. Also in a pinch you can unclamp the upper fitting and have a short chunk of hose to fill a can when your buddies run out or starve a rig.

I like things simple.

 

[chicago]

Your tank is most likely not visible so this does not apply.

I like to use a couple 90s and clear fuel tubing on fabbed steel tanks that are visible in truggies, buggies and rear mounted cells.

I like to weld a 90 on the top of one of the sides pointing downward, then weld one on the bottom of the same side pointing up and connect them with the clear fuel line.

Now you have a gauge with no gauge or sender or wiring or moving parts. Also in a pinch you can unclamp the upper fitting and have a short chunk of hose to fill a can when your buddies run out or starve a rig.



I like things simple.

so youre saying like a "site" tube type deal? Running on the OUTSIDE of the tank?
Im intending for this to be UNDER the rig, so youre right, that wont help, but I like the way you think on keeping it simple.

 

[Chop Shop]

so youre saying like a "site" tube type deal? Running on the OUTSIDE of the tank?
Im intending for this to be UNDER the rig, so youre right, that wont help, but I like the way you think on keeping it simple.

You get the idea.

But yeah it dont help ya much

 

[M5StudeGuy]

This thread is a little "dated" but maybe someone can help me out anyway.
I just built me a steel tank...
It's 24 x 28 x 10 (about 30 gallons)
Basically it's a box with baffles. It has a 28 x 24 flat bottom.
I never thought about the gas I won't be able to use because it can't be picked up.
I DO NOT have the top welded on yet.

Can someone give me an idea on how to change my tank so it'll pick up about all the gas.
Also, I've got the 'box' built with the baffles installed... NOW WHAT all do I need to finish up.
Can someone tell me the parts I need to get.
I have a sending unit that came with a "Classic Instruments" gauge cluster package I bought.
Other than that I don't have anything.
Any info would be helpful.

 

[PAToyota]

Is there any way to add a sump to your design? Just a section that is an inch or so lower than the bottom of the tank and just large enough for the pickup? The fuel will find its way to the sump and "drain" the rest of the flat bottom.

 

[M5StudeGuy]

Thanks..
I had one other thought that might work (to avoid cutting the bottom of the tank and having another spot to make sure it don't leak.
I suppose if I made one end of the tank about an inch lower than the other, and put the pickup in that spot, it'd accomplish the same thing..??

Curious could you tell me exactly what parts I'd need to finish my tank..
I have the sending unit, and that's all...
I suppose I need some type of "spout" sticking up to where I'd fill it (Going on the wood floor of a truck bed.)
I guess it'd be a good idea to weld some type of round support piece under (inside) and over (outside) the tank, ..??
Same with the sending unit??
What kind of things would I use as a pickup and return
I assume everything would have to be welded in (couldn't use any type of gasket or O ring.??)

 

[cruiserpilot]

This thread is a little "dated" but maybe someone can help me out anyway.
I just built me a steel tank...
It's 24 x 28 x 10 (about 30 gallons)
Basically it's a box with baffles. It has a 28 x 24 flat bottom.
I never thought about the gas I won't be able to use because it can't be picked up.
I DO NOT have the top welded on yet.

Can someone give me an idea on how to change my tank so it'll pick up about all the gas.
Also, I've got the 'box' built with the baffles installed... NOW WHAT all do I need to finish up.
Can someone tell me the parts I need to get.
I have a sending unit that came with a "Classic Instruments" gauge cluster package I bought.
Other than that I don't have anything.
Any info would be helpful.

I'm glad you picked this thread up. I would like to see your tank you made, got pics? If it's not welded together, there is no reason you can't alter it. I've got a 60 series, and am thinking of building a long range tank. This thread has some really good info.

http://apeusa.com/index.html

I would contact this guy, he seems to have all the necessary pcs you'd need, and probably enough info for you to finish. Keep going with this, I'm in. I want see what you've done.

 

[PAToyota]

The issue with "draining" to one side is that you could potentially lose coverage of the pickup in an off camber situation or going around a turn. A baffled sump would better retain some amount of fuel so that the pickup would be less likely to "starve" for fuel.

At a basic level you're going to need a filler neck (with breather), pickup, sending unit, and some way to mount the tank (most applications use tab or straps). Depending on your engine, you may need a return line if it is fuel injected.

Check out the aftermarket tanks and fuel cells to see how things are basically done. They typically have openings with gaskets to connect the sending unit and pickup - and possibly for the filler neck depending on the configuration. Returns are often done with AN fittings.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

I'm pretty sure Chicago needs to update this thread with some pics...

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'm pretty sure Chicago needs to update this thread with some pics...

Look at this thread,
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/303602-chicago-builds-40-a-208.html#post8609076

there are some pictures of the completed tank around page 131.

 

[Mace]

another idea is to have a corner baffled off in a maze. Basicaly, if you pitch forward or to the opposite side, the fuel is kept in the corner. However, while flat, the fuel levels out. Also have the return line dump directly into the sump area.

 

[M5StudeGuy]

The issue with "draining" to one side is that you could potentially lose coverage of the pickup in an off camber situation or going around a turn. A baffled sump would better retain some amount of fuel so that the pickup would be less likely to "starve" for fuel.

At a basic level you're going to need a filler neck (with breather), pickup, sending unit, and some way to mount the tank (most applications use tab or straps). Depending on your engine, you may need a return line if it is fuel injected.

Check out the aftermarket tanks and fuel cells to see how things are basically done. They typically have openings with gaskets to connect the sending unit and pickup - and possibly for the filler neck depending on the configuration. Returns are often done with AN fittings.

I hadn't considered the issue of moving from side to side...
Thanks why I ask so many questions,.. usually someone can tell you things you had not thought about.
I'll have to check into a sump.
Also,... Would this be something I could just cut a two or three inch (around) and about a one in deep hole in the bottom of the tank, and pit the bottom of the pickup in that. (I'm on disability and fixed income, so trying to save everywhere I can)

I had planned on putting a breather on the tank itself, so I suppose that would work also; and not need the breather on the filler neck.
I have the sending unit already, and have things figured out for mounting.
I'm going old school and not using EFI. Carb will be on the motor. I always figured I'd need a return line,.. glad you mentioned I didn't need one with a carb. (also one less hole to drill and a place that could leak - and fittings, and more fuel line, etc)
I am building my take with a recess something similar to this. I had planned on putting all the items here. (I'll try to attach photo???)
I figured I'd have more space to tuck the tank a little closer to the bottom of the bed
http://s158.photobucket.com/user/pickupguy07/media/tank_zps974f8251.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
(well that didn't work. But the link should show it..)

Thanks for your help so far...
Anything else is much appreciated

 

[M5StudeGuy]

another idea is to have a corner baffled off in a maze. Basicaly, if you pitch forward or to the opposite side, the fuel is kept in the corner. However, while flat, the fuel levels out. Also have the return line dump directly into the sump area.

This kind of sounds on the same principle as the system used in a NASCAR race vehicle if I am understanding.
In a race car the 'sump' has flappers on the sides. Fuel would slosh in, and the flappers would close trapping the fuel inside...
Keeps the motor full of fuel until it can slosh again (this is more used for when fuel is running low.)

 

[PAToyota]

I had planned on putting a breather on the tank itself, so I suppose that would work also; and not need the breather on the filler neck.

Typically the breather is run up along the fill neck, but "vents" inside the cap so it remains sealed for EPA stuff.

Also,... Would this be something I could just cut a two or three inch (around) and about a one in deep hole in the bottom of the tank, and pit the bottom of the pickup in that.

Yep, that is basically the idea - a low point that the pickup sticks down into that is below the main "floor" of the tank.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

I built a tank for my mini-truck several years ago. That was a strictly offroad truck that I never kept more than 4-5 gallons in at any given time, and it was off-camber more than it was level. I built the tank with what I call a "typhoon baffle system". Basically the baffles funnel any fuel sloshing around the tank into the sump and hold it there. My sump was about 2" deep and the fuel pump pickup sat down in that sump. With the hole between the sump and the main tank only big enough for the fuel pump to fit down inside, the fuel that made it into the sump stayed in there pretty well. I never once experience fuel starvation, and that was with a tank that had an 18 gallon capacity, but never had more than 5 in it.

I'm not saying it's the be all end all solution, but it worked incredibly well for me.

See my picture for a little more clarity.