Do you have any pics of the front driveline with the Dana 300/700r4? Mainly looking to see the clearance around the pan. Also, what adapter did you use?
Builds Build up: Rusty Mustard
- Thread starter Isotel
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- #202
Deliverance, Post 88,89 shows the driveshaft.. its been working good, I changed the front section to an 8" travel Splined shaft from Trail Mart.
If you want it to ballence well at speed, you will need to use 2 u-joints in Phase for the upper section of the 2 peice with equal angles.. the way i did mine would just be good for lower speed stuff..
My adapter is an old AA adapter i belive.. Not sure, no castings on it..
If you want it to ballence well at speed, you will need to use 2 u-joints in Phase for the upper section of the 2 peice with equal angles.. the way i did mine would just be good for lower speed stuff..
My adapter is an old AA adapter i belive.. Not sure, no castings on it..
- Thread starter
- #203
Ive got a Question.. the Dana 60 looks like it has about 9" of travel in the Steering (Lock to Lock).. Im going to run the Steering Low to the Stock Knuckle Locations to keep it out of the way of the Frame at Full Compression. I am adding a Hy Steer arm on the Passenger side Double Sheer the Passenger side with all the load going through it.
My Pitman Arm is 5.5" Long, and Only produces about 8" of travel.. Trying and find a Pitman arm that is 6-6.5" long and Flat.
My Pitman Arm is 5.5" Long, and Only produces about 8" of travel.. Trying and find a Pitman arm that is 6-6.5" long and Flat.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #204
Got the 14 Bolt Shaved, and Disk Brakes mocked up
on the Front 3 Link, Going to have to put a slight bend in the Tie Rod, or move the Steering box..
Photos are Sitting at ride height, its looking like i should be able to get 7" of travel up and down!
![IMG_2189[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2189-1-jpg.715906/ "IMG_2189[1].jpg")
![IMG_2190[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2190-1-jpg.715907/ "IMG_2190[1].jpg")
![IMG_2191[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2191-1-jpg.715908/ "IMG_2191[1].jpg")
on the Front 3 Link, Going to have to put a slight bend in the Tie Rod, or move the Steering box..
Photos are Sitting at ride height, its looking like i should be able to get 7" of travel up and down!
- Thread starter
- #205
Preliminary 4 Link Numbers.. Anyone know what all these numbers mean? 
im going to make the Upper Frame side mount adjustable so i can play with 60-110 AntiSquat and feel the difference of each.
im going to make the Upper Frame side mount adjustable so i can play with 60-110 AntiSquat and feel the difference of each.
Thats gonna be sweet man, you got 7" of up in the front? And a good idea on the adjustable top links, i've experimented with my antisquat in the rear a bit and it seems to climb better with a little more than my initial setup
I’ll take a stab at it, here are some of my thoughts…
Also assuming this 4 link if for the rear since it looks like you are keeping your steering box…
Could you double check that your top bellhousing bolt is actually at 30”… CG height…
You have -2* of roll under steer which is great, when you start the 3 link in the front you want to either build it with no more than 2* of over steer or build it with under steer also (I would do the latter).
Upper link length:
Used your numbers in the calc and ran them. At full droop you anti squat goes up a bunch (103%) while at full bump you’re down to (57%). What would happen when going fast your suspension will not want to collapse (very quickly) after being cycled open (weather that be from a jump or whoops). You can extrapolate crawling in all of these situations.
In my opinion I would want the suspension to either be very consistent through travel (or) have it increase Anti squat at full bump to help resist a large hit. Being that the truck should be sprung as light as it can be…
70% upper link length (based on lower link length; that’s a mouthful) creates a situation where anti squat increases towards full bump.
80% length uppers tend to make very neutral uppers that stay very consistent through the arc of travel. However on you’re design you would have to change some stuff around to achieve it… (This is my preferred area as you can tune it more since its more neutral.)
Also assuming this 4 link if for the rear since it looks like you are keeping your steering box…
Could you double check that your top bellhousing bolt is actually at 30”… CG height…
You have -2* of roll under steer which is great, when you start the 3 link in the front you want to either build it with no more than 2* of over steer or build it with under steer also (I would do the latter).
Upper link length:
Used your numbers in the calc and ran them. At full droop you anti squat goes up a bunch (103%) while at full bump you’re down to (57%). What would happen when going fast your suspension will not want to collapse (very quickly) after being cycled open (weather that be from a jump or whoops). You can extrapolate crawling in all of these situations.
In my opinion I would want the suspension to either be very consistent through travel (or) have it increase Anti squat at full bump to help resist a large hit. Being that the truck should be sprung as light as it can be…
70% upper link length (based on lower link length; that’s a mouthful) creates a situation where anti squat increases towards full bump.
80% length uppers tend to make very neutral uppers that stay very consistent through the arc of travel. However on you’re design you would have to change some stuff around to achieve it… (This is my preferred area as you can tune it more since its more neutral.)
- Thread starter
- #208
Thanks Jay,
Anyway you can come by before i make my final decisions and start welding? Ill come help you out with your build!
Yes this is the rear, 3-link front.. I can make the Lowers Longer, but it means i may have to redo the cross member in the future when i swap in the 6.0l 4l80 Atlas.. not a big deal.. or shorten up the uppers works too.
The 30" COG number bothers me. i mean all these specific calculations rely on one number that is pretty much a shot in the dark
Anyway you can come by before i make my final decisions and start welding? Ill come help you out with your build!
Yes this is the rear, 3-link front.. I can make the Lowers Longer, but it means i may have to redo the cross member in the future when i swap in the 6.0l 4l80 Atlas.. not a big deal.. or shorten up the uppers works too.
The 30" COG number bothers me. i mean all these specific calculations rely on one number that is pretty much a shot in the dark
Cant wait to see it!
Any updates??
- Thread starter
- #212
looks good you going to get it all done for this summer I'm assuming? My truck is maybe a month away from completion
nice! ill be ready to do some wheeling this year! wanted to make EJS, but she will be ready by Cruise Moab!
Not too much, Ive figured out my steering, and have my Link Placement dialed in.. Thanks to Jay from REDLINE!
going to make another order from Ruff Stuff!
Im moving Crawlorado out of my house/garage, and into a shop this week, once we are setup ill be moving quickly on this! Keep bugging me for updates! always nice to see people intrested in my Build keeping me modivated to get it done!
ElHefe
SILVER Star
Keep it up. Looking forward to seeing some progress!
you should be ready for a mod class KOH run when it's done!
- Thread starter
- #215
thats the plan! will need some sponsorship help to make it happen!
Thats cool man, good luck!
If you do that I'll be there to help pit for you!
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Back to the top trev. Post more in this thread...
- Thread starter
- #219
Going to Hold you too it!!
- Thread starter
- #220
Progress
Alright, well after 6 months of looking at it and over analyzing, I decided to get off my butt and get some work done.
Frame is sitting at 22"
Rear is all Mocked up, Came out with 60-80% Antisquat depending on my adjustable mounts. Antisquat barley changes at all from Bump to Droop. 2 Degrees of under steer.. 7" up and 7" down Travel, but my Tires will hit the Tube/Tub in the rear, so ill let them limit travel till I can grow a pair, and cut the tub off..
Front is Getting close, Should have the track bar bent and in tomorrow, and some Coil over Towers thanks to Ben @ Redline. im going to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down in the front. 1 Degree of Oversteer.. Castor is set at 10 Degrees at ride height.
Ive got Coil overs, Air Bumps Driveshaft adapters, wheels, and Brake lines arriving this week.
Cruise Moab or BUST
![IMG_2402[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2402-1-jpg.750675/ "IMG_2402[1].jpg")
![IMG_2403[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2403-1-jpg.750676/ "IMG_2403[1].jpg")
![IMG_2411[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2411-1-jpg.750677/ "IMG_2411[1].jpg")
Alright, well after 6 months of looking at it and over analyzing, I decided to get off my butt and get some work done.
Frame is sitting at 22"
Rear is all Mocked up, Came out with 60-80% Antisquat depending on my adjustable mounts. Antisquat barley changes at all from Bump to Droop. 2 Degrees of under steer.. 7" up and 7" down Travel, but my Tires will hit the Tube/Tub in the rear, so ill let them limit travel till I can grow a pair, and cut the tub off..
Front is Getting close, Should have the track bar bent and in tomorrow, and some Coil over Towers thanks to Ben @ Redline. im going to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down in the front. 1 Degree of Oversteer.. Castor is set at 10 Degrees at ride height.
Ive got Coil overs, Air Bumps Driveshaft adapters, wheels, and Brake lines arriving this week.
Cruise Moab or BUST
