build: 71 FJ40 “Stripes”

[RodrigzCrzr]

So I recently drove my FJ40 to the local Toyota dealer and it ran fine. So I thought.
I parked it and come the next day I went to start it. And I heard this horrible screech. I shut it off and looked if anything was in the way.
Fired it up again and the screech got louder.
I removed the fan belt and spun the fan and it was fine then spun the alternator and it was fine. Checked the oil the level was good Radiator had water.
So I started the truck again and still loud screech and grinding noise. I think I determined that it had spun a bottom end bearing.
I put a screw driver to the block and listened and it sounded terrible.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Pulled out the spare 2F from the garage.
Started tearing it down.
The 40 is getting a 2f swapped in.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Well
Progress has been slow. On the 40 series engine swap.
I pulled the intake and Exhaust manifolds off the F engine. Tried splitting it and broke the long bolt at the rear of the intake. That bolt is was seized and welded on. I tried heat I tried extractors and nothing. Even used a Blue point extractor kit and that bit broke. Now just drilling it out and waiting for a Helicoil repair kit.
In the mean time I have been cleaning and scraping years of dirt off the engine painted the drivers side of the engine block, installed a CityRacer Thermostat housing, removed the oil cooler and cleaned it up and painted it. Bought new washers and o rings for it.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Update;
I finally got the 2F installed. Had a hard time mating the trans combo to engine. But with a little help from @mattressking we finally got it mated.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

While waiting on parts I decided to switch the gearing to 3:73’s. I had these carriers from my previous fj60 I lost in a accident.
Now going to good use.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Just finished buttoning up the rear end. I had a few studs that where pretty wiped out.
I should of replaced them all but I’m on a budget. So its replace what is needed.
Removed the axles and cleaned out the outer part of the axle housing and replaced the oil seals. The bearings where good.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Removed the breathers on the rear axle and cleaned them up. Removed all the grime and blew some air in them carefully. Turned out pretty good.

 

[mattressking]

Nice job!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Removed the timing gear cover cleaned it up and and prepped the surface. Cleaned and sanded the cover and painted it. installed new seal and gasket.Got the crank pulley on and started the installation of parts to finally get it running.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Prepped the fan shroud and painted it.
Installed it and had a little rubbing from the fan on the edges. Installed and removed it several times to get it right while trimming the tips of the fan.
No more rubbing.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Fired her up and she started.
Made double sure I had the distributor in correctly and on TDC so I don’t get any loud backfire and explosions like the last time I blew up the muffler.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

And here it is on a test drive.

 

[middlecalf]

The Land Cruiser Hand Dance, what a feeling! Good job

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

The Land Cruiser Hand Dance, what a feeling! Good job

Yeah, I was like when your team makes a score you raise your hands and cheer!
Thank you

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Worked on the cruiser Saturday evening to prep it for a maiden voyage drive south to Costa Mesa. Doing the monthly Quarantine cruise. On Sunday
This will be the first long drive since 2F was installed.
But prior to that I had a few things I needed to get done.
I had my Thermostat gauge not working! So I dug in and checked continuity and it all checked out well. Once I removed the dash cluster to check the gauge itself I noticed that the wire connected was a yellow/black and the wire connected to the sending unit was yellow/green. Switched the wires around and Walla!! workog gauge.
Next I had no taillights. Which is weird cause prior to engine swap all the lights where working.
Well I followed the wiring harness from the two plugs on the passenger side and I found the split.
Apparently when I was fighting to get the transmission stabbed in and moving it left to right at some point moved far enough to crush the wiring harness and split two wires. Sure enough they where the taillight wires. So I cut them and re connected them and now we have lights.
Then I had taillights but no brake lights.
Checked connections couldn’t figure it out.
Checked the switch it worked checked the plugs at passenger side nothing.
Stumped I checked the wiring schematic and studied it and noticed that it all works in conjunction with the turn signal switch. I had removed it cause I was working on it and cleaned it up. I installed it and plugged it in then o got brakes lights at the front marker lamps. I was close. Switched some wires and checked which ones turned on while applying brake. Make the correct connection and once again success! I have brake lights and driving lights.
I call that an accomplishment. Knocking out a few items that need to be looked at. And coming out getting them fixed.
That day earlier I had taken the cruiser to muffler shop to have all the hangers fixed. Since some broke and was poorly done.
Muffler shop hooked it up and made it more solid than it was.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Today
Did my maiden voyage drive with 2F installed and drive like a champ.
Only a few minor hiccups
One: the starter wire came loose and wouldn’t turn on
Two: slight water leak at the heater connections at firewall.
Three: fan belt loosened up and started to squeal. will get an adjustment bracket from VintageTeq.
Four: definitely need to update suspension. It is rough.
Overall good drive!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Well had a bit of a mishap on the 40 series stripes . Too it out for a drive on Sunday since I haven’t really driven it since my last drive.
It was running fine was driving along the beach in Santa Monica and out of the blue it just started to misfire and run like crap! It shut off and wouldn’t start like it was rapidly.
Didn’t have my tools nor anything to fix it.
So had to call AAA. To come pick me up!

Finally got around to checking it last couple days and saw my alternator was not putting out the sufficient volts.
So a local mud member hooked me up with a replacement installed it still no dice.
After replacing the alternator and removed the top of the carb and found some debris in the bowl. Cleaned that out and still no go!
Put a timing light on it to recheck the timing.
As I was doing that I did notice the strobe on the timing light was sporadic and wasn’t right.
That led me to replace the cap possibly having a crack and the contacts weren’t looking so good. Removed the condenser and bench checked it. And it didn’t pass the test.
Ordered a condenser from my local O’Rielys.
Today I recieved my condenser from Orielys and installled it and replaced the dizzy cap and she fired right up!
Started up as it has been on first try!

 

[EWheeler]

Keep on it, eventually youll get all the little bugs worked out!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Worked on the 40 series today. And replaced the old original carb base and gaskets with a new base from @Redlinecruisers.
I feel like it made a difference and have no more vacuum leak from that area. If the prior base had one I couldn’t pin point it.
Nevertheless truck idles better and no more hesitation.
Now to get them darn springs replaced I dislike how this drives with them worn out springs.
Just bottoms out and jars your teeth and whole body.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Did some more work on the 40 this week.
I did a lean drop and adjustment on the carb. Now she is running better. Idle was to low after it warmed up. She would shut off coming to a stop. I got good vacuum steady at 20.