Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

[lostih]

I believe the sensor monitors the level in the water separator and turns on an indicator light when it needs servicing...though I don't know for sure.

The intercooler certainly has an effect on the radiator, but it isn't enough to be a problem. Most newer 4bd's are intercooled.

 

[doug720]

My intercooler was the same way. I cut the angled 90's off, then cut as long a straight section of the fittings as possible. This I welded to the intercooler tanks.

By doing this, I could use a 90 silicone hose off the intercooler, which allows the angle to move up and down, and if needed, to adjust the piping size with a reducer 90.

It was pretty easy to do, and worked great on my swap.

This is the best picture I have of mine.

Keep it up, soon it will on the road!

 

[lostih]

I like your mounts and cutting off the intercooler outed would be great...but sadly one of my tanks is plastic. I might be able to swap for a different intercooler that I could cut up...I'll have to think on that. Thanks for the idea!

 

[lostih]

Progress slowed with being out of town and all, but I made some good progress the last couple days.

Got the radiator and intercooler mounts done and hoses installed. Left the tags on so you can see Napa part numbers if they are helpful.

I also worked a bit on my throttle linkage. Ended up removing the bell crank on the back of the block and adapting right to the injection pump.

Also got a bunch of other little things done. Working on trans cooler lines etc.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

What fan setup are you running you have way more clearance than I do.

I like the throttle setup, had thought of the same myself but the kick-down cable seemed like more of a hassle that way.

I like the way your rad hoses fit, that lower one looks good.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[lostih]

Yeah I decided to leave the radiator further forward. I guess some older chevs had super deep fan shrouds so I may just make a deep fan shroud and go with the mechanical fan. I also thought about going the Ford contour route. We'll see...I'd like to keep it mechanical if possible.

For the kick down cable I'm thinking about connecting it where the other end of the throttle cable connects to the cruise actuator. I think you posted some info in John's build on adjustments for that guy...I need to make sure I have the right amount of throw there. The throttle ended up with just about 1.4" of throw where I think factory cruiser was 2ish. Is that where you ended up?

 

[Dougal]

The intercooler certainly has an effect on the radiator, but it isn't enough to be a problem. Most newer 4bd's are intercooled.

The 4BD2T were intercooled. The 4BD1T weren't.

 

[Beau Diddly]

The 4BD2T were intercooled. The 4BD1T weren't.

I notice most swapper prefer the 4BD1T over the 4BD2T, presumably b/c it's all mechanical. So why not remove the bells & whistles from the 2T? I'm sure it would run fine without the ECU, so why keep it? If I don't need to tow 12-15K lbs, why do I need the intercooler? I ask these questions in the context of the OP, in a FZJ80.

 

[Dougal]

I notice most swapper prefer the 4BD1T over the 4BD2T, presumably b/c it's all mechanical. So why not remove the bells & whistles from the 2T? I'm sure it would run fine without the ECU, so why keep it? If I don't need to tow 12-15K lbs, why do I need the intercooler? I ask these questions in the context of the OP, in a FZJ80.

Both engines are fully mechanical. An IC is a good thing for everything but fast warm-up in the cold.

 

[lostih]

I'm going with the 1t because it was what I found easily. I think either would be great. I seem to recall something about 2t's sometimes cracking pistons or having some oiling issue but that is back in the cob webs of my brain. Dougal is your guy when it comes to info on these. Lots of folks here run the 4bd2 and are happy with it...if I were doing it again if go with either motor.

 

[lostih]

Finally got the last parts to put my oil filters back on. I suppose that's important. Cost way more than it should but it's done.

Don't worry. I'll put clamps on that

Motor is back in for possibly the last time. Got my throttle hooked up and working on a plan for the kick down cable. Hoping to get lots done tomorrow.

 

[lostih]

I finished up my throttle linkage today. I ended up running the kick down cable to the cruise actuator as well. Welded on a bracket and it seems to have about the same throw as a stock fj80

I also wired up the fuel cut off actuator as astr outline on 4btswaps. Super simple and great tech. Saved me tons of head scratching. I mounted the actuator bag to the fender well.

Then I moved on to fuel stuff. Got my tank drained, lines blown out and six gallons of diesel chugged in. I removed the pump and added a pick up tube similar to how jonesy's and others have outlined.

I took another whack (literally) at the wiring and removed a bunch more stuff. I put the harness back on the truck and tested some stuff. Seems I don't have my neutral safety switch working quite right as I can't get the starter lead to come on with they key. I only messed with it for a few minutes...hopefully it's clear tomorrow what the deal is.

 

[doug720]

On the starter wiring, on a 60, the power to the starter solenoid runs through the key switch, so maybe this won't apply to an 80. The Isuzu 4BD1/2's starter draws more current than the key switch can handle and will eventually burn it out. The fix is to wire a simple Ford type solenoid into the key switched wire, then run heavier wire to the starter.

Just something to sort before you get too far on the wiring.

Waiting for the video of the first start and drive.

 

[lostih]

Thanks Doug!

Turned out my NSS was just corroded. Got it cleaned up and working now. (I also hadn't plugged in one of the harness connectors on the interior... That helped a lot too

I've been negligent in posting, but hard at work. I got the w signal wire added to the alternator. Very simple to do...just add a lead off one of the windings. I also put some new brushes in as the old ones were shot.

I got my intercooler pipes in, hoses routed, oil filled up and even cranked it today...but the battery doesn't fit in the battery box anymore due to intercooler piping so I was using jumper cables and they didn't have enough oomph. Had to call it a day but maybe tomorrow with a different battery.

For those of you with this swap complete...did you find you needed dual batteries to start in regular use or was one satisfactory?

I'm thinking of doing dual group 24's or 25's as they should still fit in factory battery boxes and just leave them in parallel like the stock NPR. Thoughts?

 

[lostih]

Oh and the silly intake filter is a temporary measure until I figure out a long term solution...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Looks goods. Does the 4BD needs more air than the stock air cleaner can handle?

 

[lostih]

Oh no...I'd like to use the stock air filter but it's gonna take some thinking on intercooler pipe routing and AC stuff. I was thinking of trying to mount the stock landcruiser ac pump on the passenger side to reuse factory lines but I don't think that is going to work. Currently the intercooler pipe runs right through the old air box and there is a slight clearance issue with the engine mounted fuel filter. I'm going to run the cone filter for a while as I need to get the truck back on the road.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Oh no...I'd like to use the stock air filter but it's gonna take some thinking on intercooler pipe routing and AC stuff. I was thinking of trying to mount the stock landcruiser ac pump on the passenger side to reuse factory lines but I don't think that is going to work. Currently the intercooler pipe runs right through the old air box and there is a slight clearance issue with the engine mounted fuel filter. I'm going to run the cone filter for a while as I need to get the truck back on the road.

I have a Donaldson air cleaner in mine. Inter cooler is routed similar to yours only lower. I have bit more room since the cruise is gone but I have to remove the battery and battery tray to get to the air cleaner to change the filter.

 

[lostih]

Got it Started!!

Trans doesn't seem to be working. Not sure if the torque converter is engaged in the oil pump or? Looks like the oil pump in the transmission isn't working. Super bummed...engine and transmission might come out yet again.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I would unbolt the converter from the flex plate and measure how far you can push the converter back into the bell. In mine I set it up so I had 3/16th of movement when the converter was not bolter to the flex plate. The converter pump drive teeth are about 1/2-3/4" long IIRC. I wanted to keep as much enagement as possible.

Worst case the flexplate adapter is too short and needs to be longer.