Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

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I really think the pump is engaged. I measured my pump as having just over 5/8" of possible tooth engagement and there was about a 3/16 gap when it all went together.

I did have the flexplate flipped once when I bolted it together I think so it may be that I smashed the pump...do you know if that's fixable without an entire trans redo?
 
Hey Jeremy...do you think you could pull your trans without pulling the motor? The bell housing bolts on the passenger side look pretty hard to get at...
 
I do not think I could pull the trans those bolts are really close to the tunnel. I could pull the whole think in a few hours though.

It sounds like you may have broken the pump, I belive the pump can be pulled but I ave no idea yet what is involved with that.

Good luck sorry to hear about the setback.
 
Thanks man. That was my assessment too.

While I have it out I'll mess with the oil pressure sender. I put the isuzu one back in but it doesn't work with the gauge. I saved the 1fz sender, but it's body is too big to thread in. I've looked everywhere local for and adapter to get it in the hole. What did you work out for yours?
 
Yeah the Toyota sender does not fit in the factory Isuzu spot, I'm using that sender as a low pressure warning. The Toyota one I threaded into my oilfilter pipe from filter to cooler, not ideal placement but the only place it would fit. I hopse with that an the idiot light/buzzer I'll cath any issue before its catastrofic.
 
At least I have a helper to encourage me while I pull the engine one more time...

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Your work space looks a lot like mine does when wrenching. I tend to lose stuff that's right in front of me. Then get mad and frustrated but never change my ways. I hope it's a simple fix and you get it running soon.
 
Ha! You called it! Working in my dad's garage...can't complain about a free space out of the weather to work...but we do lack some organization here :-)
 
So I got the engine out and the trans off the engine. The torque converter is definitely engaging the pump. Hrmph. So I'm thinking I must have pushed the pump back into the case enough that it doesn't seal?

Depth from the front seal to the front of the pump drive tooth is 1.3". Anyone have a 440 they can measure for me? I'll go to a wrecking yard tomorrow to measure one but if somebody has this measurement it'll help me narrow in on the issue.

Thanks.

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Thats just a little irritating I bet! With the converter in its home can you rotate it back and fort and hear the drive dogs from the pump to the converter make a little click?
 
Yup. And you can note where the teeth are, slip the converter on, rotate it 90 degrees and take it back off and the pump teeth have moved 90. It doesn't feel like it slides on the teeth as far as it once did...so perhaps they have moved back? Only measuring a good one will tell...
 
Come up with any solution or figure out what the problem was? You can't be burnt out being this close to driving! I bet your installing a new trans as we speak!
 
Ha! Wanna bet if you can be burnt out ;-). You're right though. Picked up a different trans yesterday and got it to lurch forward and back by about 10 last night. Waited until this morning to actually drive it. I installed my gauges first so I could monitor egts and I'm glad I did. I don't have a wastegate actuator on it at the moment because there isn't enough clearance for the one I bought. Thus the turbo isn't spooling and the thing runs really rich. I did drive it around the block but need to adjust the kickdown cable so it shifts right. Everyone references the fsm for the adjustment procedure...I haven't found it yet in my limited search but I'm sure I'll get it.

Exhaust shops seem really busy so it's going in Friday for exhaust. The alternator wasn't charging either so it's off to get rebuilt. I hope to get a plan for the wastegate actuator tomorrow so maybe I can drive it a bit more Friday and Saturday :-)
 
I suppose an explanation of what happened is in order. Turns out that I must have bolted up the trans to the engine with the torque converter not over the pump teeth. I knew I had punched it and stopped and took it apart and everything looked fine, but I must have put a burr on the pump teeth as the torque converter from that point on wouldn't slip over the pump teeth even though it would turn them and felt like it slipped over. This when I thought I had my modified flexplate on backwards I really didn't...the torque converter was just sticking out that much more from the trans. With the new trans the torque converter slid right on and I was able to flip the flexplate back to the original planned position and bolt everything up.
 
not to sound a false alarm for you but there was a guy up here in vancouver that had his transmission rebuilt 4 times back to back with very few miles in between . First time by a toyota dealer ,then by a reputable toyota deisel transmission shop then twice by another transmission shop. first shop bent the t/c pilot which punched the pump, secound shop didn't catch the bad pump and only fixed the t/c pilot,third shop did the pump then the pump went again. the truck sat idle for a couple years. i was going to buy it for parts. The shop that worked on it last would not rebuild the pump again untill the owner got the crank bearings done ( he was a transmission shop only) . I actually went underneath with a big flat bar and moved the crank back and forth . No i did not measure it but thought wow thats not much play to screw up a pump. so check your end play on the motor is basically what im trying to say. I had seen worse on an old 292chev that was a runner. your t/c and pump are the original yes. the a442f looks the same but different between gas and diesel.are your's both gas or both diesel,. Y our pump might be good but your t/c isnt for it, or maybe it doesn't matter on an a440f . And can you do a quick test out of the truck before you put it back in. sorry man good luck.
 

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