Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

[lostih]

Here's the harness once I got it off the 1fz

View attachment 908849

Here's it with most the stuff trimmed out:

View attachment 908850

And here's the box of carnage from what I took out:

View attachment 908851

I've left about ten extra wires that I want to wait on cutting out. The wiring diagram I was in deep on was the engine control and these seem to go to the body connector. I also left the diagnostic plug and TCU wires as I wasn't sure if taking these out would cause lots of dash lights to come on. I'll trace it all down later, but figured it'd be easier to leave them in and problem solve when it's back in the truck.


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[lostih]

Cool. I was hoping you'd chime in on that. I figured this would be the case but also figured better safe than sorry

My truck as the external trans control unit. I assume I can cut everything to it too.

On another note...I'm working on turbo placement. I'm thinking of building a little riser to mount the turbo up a bit so I can keep the larger angled flange housing. I realize it may not be ideal for flow, but am thinking the bigger turbine housing is more of a gain than the penalty for having a riser. See any problems with this?

I'm gonna fab something up and will post some pics later hopefully.


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[Wheelingnoob]

If anything that 7cm housing is a bit big for our application if you want fast boost response. An adapter will have very little effect if its done correctly.


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[Fromage]

On my 94 I removed the TCM entirely. The locker ECU needs a vehicle speed pulse, but the wires run to both the TCM and the locker ECU so I just unplugged one end. I had to make some connections on mine to re-use the "power" and " OD off" buttons but you guys shouldn't have to. I think the trans temp light bypasses the TCM entirely.

I kept the diag connector for ABS diag function but removed all the engine and trans specific wiring. I think you need to retain one power wire to the connector which may come from the engine harness - This is from memory so don't quote me on it...

There is another V8 swap on here where they retained the TCM and "fooled" it into working normally, I pulled it entirely and it worked perfectly.

 

[lostih]

Are you using the 442 with no tcm?! I had thought that was impossible.


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[lostih]

Slow progress day today...but I did manage to sell the 1fz and 442 to another cruiserhead so now there is more space in the shop

Here are the pics of the motor mounts. They won't win any beauty contests but the welds are good and I think they turned out ok.

Drivers side:

To make the drivers side I added a piece onto the existing mount. It happened to be in just the right spot for me, but will make exhaust routing more difficult.

On the passenger side I left the tabs sticking off the frame and just sliced off the mount surface about 1.25" below where it was. I then welded in a 6" square piece of 3/8 plate.

Passenger side:

I also put in a new rear main seal in the engine and a front oil pump seal in the trans before bolting the adapter together. Once I had the flex plate on I checked it for trueness with a dial indicator. I got it within the .007" factory spec for runout with some tweaking.

I then filled the tc with a couple quarts of ATF and put everything together. Hoping I don't have to have it apart again for a while.

I also swapped the trans cooler lines from the 442 before it left as they get the trans cooler lines closer to the front and on the correct side for my truck. I may switch them back though as I'm afraid they may end up too close to the exhaust.

So my two major hangups so far that I've been putting off dealing with are the turbo housing and the starter. I think I need to get different versions of both for things to work. I also think I need to rework my oil relocation bracket and piping.

I hope to get fuel lines and radiator/intercooler mounting done tomorrow and possibly work on throttle linkage.


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[ylexot]

Slow day??? Sounds darned productive to me. What are you doing for the starter? I thought the starter was one of the biggest bugaboos for the Isuzu swap.

 

[lostih]

Well some of this (motor mounts) was actually done yesterday. I like writing down what I did each day though because it feels slow but when you actually write down all the stuff you did it makes more sense why it took so long

I'm not sure on the starter. I have a three bolt starter that's HUGE. There are some industrial versions that tuck the motor up closer to the block and perhaps have a smaller motor that might work. I've clocked mine by lopping off one of the bolt ears. I figured I could try that and if it doesn't work I'm not out anything as I think the market form used isuzu starters is a bit soft I'll find out in the morning if that plan will work.

Btw I figured out my "fuel pump" was actually the water separator with a sensor on it. Yeah I feel pretty dumb.


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[doug720]

Progress is always good. All these Isuzu swaps are great, you will be happy soon!

 

[lostih]

No fuel lines today. I decided to take the engine and trans apart because I was worried I'd bumped the nose cone on the torque converter too hard during assembly and really didn't want to add any vibration by having that thing tweaked in there. And since I'm nervous about my flexplate holding up I didn't want any doubt in my mind about the torque converter. I popped it out and took it back to total performance and they checked it for true. It was dead on. Glad I checked and now know I didn't bugger it up. Really really happy with total performance. Nice guys that are interested in helping you out.

I also went back to the machine shop to work on the oil filter relocation bracket. First time around I made it just a smidge too tall. I made it in about 1/4 of the time this go around and it turned out nicer I think. Of course I made it about 1/8 wider this time and thus had to clearance for a bolt head when I got home. Whoopsie. I'm not make it a third time if I can help it

Since I was in the machine shop I decided to see if I could make my turbine housing work. I was able to clearance the blind stud so it could possible work. I love being in the machine shop.

However I wasn't sure this housing would work so I picked up another turbo from a 98 s70 with a straight outlet. It came with the down pipe and was only 50 bucks...hard to beat that.

Now I'm working on turbo placement. I'm just not finding a setup that I'm thrilled about. If I put the compressor on the back it seems like it will be hard to run the wastegate actuator and the intake is right against the firewallI


I like the idea of having the exhaust rear facing, but that also gets petty tight to the firewall. So how close is too close do you think for down pipe to firewall?

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[lostih]

Isuzu factory water separator mounted in place of charcoal canister.

Isuzu fuel filers mounted in passenger side wheel well.

I know it's not my favorite spot for them but I can build a shield for the filters.




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[doug720]

I don't know your fuel line routing, but the water separator should be placed before the fuel filters. This catches the water and big chunks first.

 

[lostih]

Thanks for the reminder. Shod work that way...the fuel lines run up to the water separator from the tank and then bounce over to the filers and then to the pump.

I'm a diesel newbie though so keep the reminders, hints, gotchas, and what the heck are you thinking coming


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[Wheelingnoob]

I know you are trying to keep the budget in check but why not get a raycor fuel/water filter setup? It basically replaces those 3 with one easy to service unit for about $90. Its also got a filter rating of 20/10 or 2 depending what filter you get.

Just a though, its the way I went mainly because I did not have the factory setup and i wanted all in one. The little wix pre filter I got filters out all the large junk and is easy to replace.


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[lostih]

Honestly it's because I know so little about diesels at this point I figure I'll put what was on the factory truck as much as possible and then start changing stuff. With the exception of the turbo...and even that I'm thinking I would have been in over my head less if I had just left it alone and upgraded later.

If I look in your thread will I find the raycor details?

I'm bending up my fuel lines across the fire wall like you did...super slick.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Honestly it's because I know so little about diesels at this point I figure I'll put what was on the factory truck as much as possible and then start changing stuff. With the exception of the turbo...and even that I'm thinking I would have been in over my head less if I had just left it alone and upgraded later.

If I look in your thread will I find the raycor details?

I'm bending up my fuel lines across the fire wall like you did...super slick.


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Im sure the stock system will work it just seems over complicated.


Yep its in there somewhere lol.

Yeah I was happy how they turned out. Only clean way to do it that I could see other than starting from scratch.




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[lostih]

I agree on complicated took me a while to trace all those hoses


Here are my new fuel lines:

I also spent some time on radiator mounts. I'm using the factory fj60 mounts and donuts and then built a little tab up from the frame to catch those. Seemed pretty simple.

Now I just need to get the top mount done and figure out how to mount the intercooler. I think this is the largest intercooler one could reasonably fit in this truck. . I'm going to have to rework my battery box, but this thing hugs the fj60 radiator like it was made for it. I'm pleased and excited

No more updates until next weekend...

 

[doug720]

Would the intercooler fit if it was flipped top to bottom? I ran my intercooler piping under my existing battery's. Just an idea.

That s a nice big cooler!

 

[lostih]

I did look at that and will look again, but as I recall the inlets are angled about 30 degrees up and out. If I flipped it they'd be 30 degrees down and it looked like the pipe and the steering box would want to be in the same place on the drivers side. I'll check again though as I'd like to keep the battery boxes.

 

[ylexot]

Sweet progress! What does the sensor on your water separator (not fuel pump ) do? My BJ70 had a big water separator on it, no wiring and I'm pretty sure it wasn't stock. How does the intercooler affect the radiator's ability to transfer heat from the engine coolant? Is your fan clutch going to have to be on more often to make up for the prewarmed and lower glow rate air going thru the radiator?