Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

[lostih]

1fz trans and tcase with all accessories and filled with fluid weighs 1070 lbs

4bd1 with accessories and fluids weighs 720 lbs

Trans and tcase weighs 370 lbs.

Looks like pretty darn even swap based on weight....

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[Wheelingnoob]

Yeah I figured they would be very close. Good to know for sure.


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[lostih]

Sitting on the rear crossmember. Now lunch

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[ThreeEyedBandit]

Cripes!! Thats lookin' good! And way to fast also!

 

[ylexot]

Nice dude. Half way through day 2 and you've already got the assembly located on the rear cross member. I want to come by and see...

 

[lostih]

Been hunting for a good link for 1994 FSM and wiring diagram. gotmud posted this up: http://www.filefactory.com/file/b05h676/n/LC_FSM.zip

Saved my bacon...many thanks to gotmud

Now to figure out the differences in the neutral safety switch etc...

 

[lostih]

Looking for some trans wiring help. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-does-the-second-speed-sensor-do-in-fzj80.809466/

Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1991 FJ80 they could send my way?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I replied to your thread with some info.


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[lostih]

Thanks! So were you successful in getting the fj80 dash shift indicator to work? I figure I can get the NSS working pretty directly but figure I'll take a stab at getting the shift indicator working as well.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks! So were you successful in getting the fj80 dash shift indicator to work? I figure I can get the NSS working pretty directly but figure I'll take a stab at getting the shift indicator working as well.


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I have not pulled the dash yet, trying to keep some sort of order to the mayhem. I think the dash indicator will be easy to retrofit. I also plan to do the temp gauge mod at the same time.





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[lostih]

I just looked at the 440 and 442 harness side by side. All the wire positions and colors match up. I'll still check the NSS with an ohm meter but other than that I think I'll plug it in and see what I get.


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[lostih]

Temp gauge mod?


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[Fromage]

Just in case, I have a Volvo turbo with the straight outlet, like 'noob used. I would trade the hot side straight up for the angled housing, which works a lot better for my application, we could both pay shipping each way and I'd buy the flange from you as well... Just a thought...

This looks really good so far!

 

[lostih]

Just in case, I have a Volvo turbo with the straight outlet, like 'noob used. I would trade the hot side straight up for the angled housing, which works a lot better for my application, we could both pay shipping each way and I'd buy the flange from you as well... Just a thought...

This looks really good so far!

I'll keep that in mind...where are you located?



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[lostih]

Progress slowed a bit today as I had to head into the machine shop to finish my flex plate adapter. It turned out good, but if I had it to do over again I would have made it a bit longer so I could leave the ring gear on the flex plate and still access the bolts. It's 1.5" thick right now and with the inset of the manual flywheel and the offset of the ring gear in stock form it only left a about .2" between the two which made it impossible to get bolts etc in. I'd also start with 5" stock instead of the 4" that I used...the walls got a little thin, but I think it should be fine. I can make another in half the time if this turns out to be a problem


Here it is:

I also worked on the oil filter relocation. I had a 10an flex hose made that I hope to run from this block down to a flange on the filter housing. I've heard other have problems with these fitting a leaking...hopefully it works

I did get time to stab the motor back in and tack my motor mounts. I need to work on a better system for getting the motor in and out...just seams to take more tipping than I would like.

Here's the motor sitting on mounts:

I'll take some pics of the mounts when I pluck the engine again to weld them. I hate using a torch near the frame and didn't want to grind the old ones off so I ended up being able to reuse chunks of them. On the drivers side I just added a bit and on the passenger size I did a fair amount of cutting. Pics tomorrow when they are dressed up a little.

Tomorrow I think I am going to start on wiring as the person buying the old 1fze wants it Thursday. I want to make sure I keep the right sensors. Right now I'm thinking that's just water temp, ac water temp, and oil pressure. I'll do more reading tonight but if you can think of others let me know.

I'm trying to decide between one of two methods for doing the wiring. One would be to cut off plugs as I unplug unneeded items (mainly efi). Then I would just remove all wires without connectors from the plugs that go into the ecu. The second method would be to look at the pin out on the wiring diagram and start at the plugs at the ecu and just cut wires based on position and color following the wiring diagram. I see advantages to both...anyone else have an opinion?


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[Fromage]

I just untaped everything and started pulling out "systems" and compared to the EWD.

BTW, I am in Ontario. I am not planning on using the turbo for a while, so no big rush either.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I just untaped everything and started pulling out "systems" and compared to the EWD.

I did the same with mine, 90% of the harness is EFI related. The rest is sensors (coolant) and CDL/speed/NSS then I added a tach pickup and lock up trigger switch. I have also run wire for the Isuzu throttle switch located on the pump. Im going to use that as an exhaust brake switch.

Over all its been the easiest swap I have done as far as the wiring goes.


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[lostih]

Thanks for the encouragement! I've got my wire cutters in hand and am diving in

 

[lostih]

Here's the harness once I got it off the 1fz

Here's it with most the stuff trimmed out:

And here's the box of carnage from what I took out:

I've left about ten extra wires that I want to wait on cutting out. The wiring diagram I was in deep on was the engine control and these seem to go to the body connector. I also left the diagnostic plug and TCU wires as I wasn't sure if taking these out would cause lots of dash lights to come on. I'll trace it all down later, but figured it'd be easier to leave them in and problem solve when it's back in the truck.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Looks to be quite a bit there that can still be trimmed out. I only have one Dark gray plug left on mine and its about 20% connected hole to have it to not connected at all soon. The blue shilded wires you can cut out they are for the crank sensor and knock sensors. Keeping the diag point will do nothing for a check engine light it will be on regardless. Best to remove the bulb when you have the dash out.


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