Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

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Thanks for the heads up. I checked end play on the crank and it was right at .010". Not awesome, but within reason I believe. I should look up the spec for the 4bd1.

When I had the two transmissions next to each other with bell housings off and torque converters in it was really obvious. Should have grabbed a pic. The slot for the oil pump gears is about .625" if I remember correctly and the step in the flexplate is about .320" IIRC. So if you flip it you move .640" or close enough to the slot depth to think you are in the right spot.

So the lesson? I was freaked out (as I think is should be) to stick me head under the engine and trans on a hoist to mate them up and you can't mate them in the truck. So I should have bought/built a way to mate engine and trans out of the truck where I could see what was happening. Now I know.
 
Yeah I understand the burnt out. At least you found the problem and have an extra trans by the way it sounds? Check 4BTSwaps for a diagram on wiring the alternator, I remember there being something unique about them. Charge relay pops into my head, but I need to revisit the FSM anyhoo. Get this on the road and some video! We all need some motivation! :banana::bounce::bounce2::clap::grinpimp:
 
ChargingStartingDiagram.webp

Found this on 4BT swaps. Not sure how you have the alt wired, but here is the diagram... Looks pretty straight forward, just make sure you have the sense wire, battery, ignition, and warning light in the right spots. Looks like you can off the charge relay, just hook it directly to the stock warning light wire. You mentioned adding a wire? Did you try leaving that wire disconnected for 'testing'?
 
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Alternator was really easy to wire. The 1fz and Isuzu both have the 3 plug hookups, just need to sort out what is what. doug720 posted a diagram of the Isuzu alt and toyota wiring.


...via IH8MUD app
 
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Also congrats!! Good job getting it done so fast! Wish mine had gone that smoothly.

Look forward to your first real drive report. As I sit 1400kms away from mine for the next 5 weeks.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Jeremy- you are a patient man and that's a special kind of cruelty to have to leave so soon after reaching such a big milestone on your build. Sorry man.

I had the alternator rebuilt as it was bad when I bought the donor vehicle and I had hoped brushes would do it but they did not. Got it back and installed and charges great. It is a super easy wiring job with the help of astr or doug720's wiring diagram. Three wires to integrate in the 1fz loom. No problem.

I've been driving it more and more. Probably put 20 miles on it today to get to and from the exhaust shop. I couldn't for the 3" exhaust so I just hooked up to the stock gasser muffler. Won't sound as cool, but it is quite. I also got the hood on which helped a bunch with noise. Tomorrow I am thinking taking it up to mt hood with the fam. We'll see...it's unreasonably got here and I don't have a fan shroud...

So still a couple things to get sorted. Turbo isn't generating much boost. Normal driving is maybe 5 psi and if you mash it at the right rpm you can get 8-10 psi for a moment. The truck seems to be a bit rich (black smoke on acceleration...though not loads of it). Not sure where to start on trouble shooting poor boost. Suggestions welcome.

I also need to work on the throttle cable linkage for the trans. I have really mushy shifts and can't get it adjusted in any position to give firm shifts or any shifts without having to take my foot out of the throttle. I only have an 1" of throttle cable throw when the fsm says I need 1.3". I had hoped it wasn't over sensitive to this, but it appears that it is. I redid the linkage today and got it to have 1.75 and that made it behave worse. The overshoot was because it was easy to try so I figured what the heck why not. I'll try and make something better Monday.

The cruise worked with no modifications...that was cool...just plug and play.

I didn't get any video today because I can't get my dakota digital adapter box to read the right rpm off idle. I added a w terminal to the alternator following a thread on a cummins forum but perhaps it doesn't work on the Isuzu the same way. It reads fun at idle up to 1300ish and then jitters and tops out around 2000 rpm though I know the engine is likely up around 3000. This causes it to show something like 1500 rpm at 60 mph...which would be awesome but not the case with 285's and 4.10's (unless my funky throttle cable issue has created a magical super overdrive :-))

I'll swallow my pride and post some video tomorrow hopefully.
 
I'm anxious to know how the 4bd does at HWY speeds. The 4.10 gears really aren't ideal for our diesels transplants. Does your Dakota Digital cuase your tach to jump around until warmed up?
 
It cruised along fine at 60 on cruise control...but it was flat freeway. Tomorrow should be interesting as it's an hour of freeway up over a mountain pass. We'll see. I'll try and tell myself not to be disappointed since there are lots of tweaks yet to be made.

The tach just seems to jitter for a second when you come off idle and then under reports rpm. I talked to dakota digital and they are suspect of how I added the w terminal to the alternator. I'll look into this more soon.
 
A little off topic...but a while ago I was wondering about how much runout the torque converter could have. Just ran across this reading the FSM on the A440F.

.118" of runout on the torque converter snout ?! Wow. That's way more than I would have guessed was acceptable. Am I missing something here?

a440 runout.webp
 
Math shows they got there decimal point in the wromg spot. 0.0118" which sounds waayyyy more reasonable.

Did you figure the boost issue? Does you 1t have a boost compensator on the pump? I know all of my vacuum lines and boost lines where cracked, which caused it to smoke and have low boost.

This is pretty exciting that your drivinf it around so quickly! Hope mine goes this reasonably quick too.

Matt
 
Yes its been cruel but i miss my family more than the project truck. When I get back I hope to get it sorted out quickly.

The trip sounds like a good test, keep an eye on EGT's and trans temp on those passes. Im sure with out getting the boost and other things dialed in it will be slow and create a bunch of heat.

Good luck, slow and steady.


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Thanks! Good to hear you miss your fam more :-). I've got mine loaded up and we're heading out. Fixed the tach this morning. It was interference between the signal wire and the w signal. I'll report back soon or beg for help :-)
 
Made it up to the pass at Mt. Hood. Highest EGT's peaked at 1100...most the time at 700-900. Only went higher on steep grades.

My bigger worry was trans temp. The idiot light never came on, but my aftermarket gauge worked up to 215 degrees...I pulled over and let it cool to 190...then started out again and it was back to 215 almost instantly. What do you think? Too hot? Anyone know what temp the at light should kick on at?
 
Made it up to the pass at Mt. Hood. Highest EGT's peaked at 1100...most the time at 700-900. Only went higher on steep grades.

My bigger worry was trans temp. The idiot light never came on, but my aftermarket gauge worked up to 215 degrees...I pulled over and let it cool to 190...then started out again and it was back to 215 almost instantly. What do you think? Too hot? Anyone know what temp the at light should kick on at?
 
lostih said:
Also I don't remember what ethe water temp on the factory gauge should hang out at. I was just below horizontal the whole time.
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Thats where mine is. I had always used my scangauge which now is no good with the mechanical diesel. Been debating the temp gauge mod or figuring out how to get an additional digital gauge working.
 
lostih said:
Made it up to the pass at Mt. Hood. Highest EGT's peaked at 1100...most the time at 700-900. Only went higher on steep grades.

My bigger worry was trans temp. The idiot light never came on, but my aftermarket gauge worked up to 215 degrees...I pulled over and let it cool to 190...then started out again and it was back to 215 almost instantly. What do you think? Too hot? Anyone know what temp the at light should kick on at?
Click to expand...


IIRC the light comes on at 270ish? 215f going up a steep pass with the converter unlocked I'm sure is pretty good if you ask me. How did it feel compared to the 1fz? Did you get the kick down adjusted any better? EGT's are right where you want them for a long climb up a mountain pass. Need to get your lack of boost sorted out now and start feeding it more fuel. :D


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