BudBuilt 200 Series Skid Plates, Sliders, High Clearance Rear Bumper

[Taco2Cruiser]

So what would be the best hybrid setup for someone that doesn't need the full 3/16" front to back? I don't rock crawl, but my front skid does get smacked every once in a while so I want that to be beefy. I'm thinking 3/16" for IFS and Lite or AL for the remainder? Is 3/16" unnecessary for occasional rock contact? Should I go a little farther back than just IFS with the beefy armor? Beefy on both ends and lite in the middle? Burly up front and OEM "skids" for the rest?

That's a really good point to bring up. Plus what you are talking about is something that about a 1/3 of guys that buy Bud's plates do, mix and match for what they need.

I would still need you to answer one more question. When you say your front skid gets smashed every once in a while, just to make sure i'm thinking of this right, you are talking about the front slope of the stock metal skid? and with that, just to make sure, you are not seeing impacts by the engine oil pan (the plastic splash shield)?

 

[Markuson]

So what would be the best hybrid setup for someone that doesn't need the full 3/16" front to back? I don't rock crawl, but my front skid does get smacked every once in a while so I want that to be beefy. I'm thinking 3/16" for IFS and Lite or AL for the remainder? Is 3/16" unnecessary for occasional rock contact? Should I go a little farther back than just IFS with the beefy armor? Beefy on both ends and lite in the middle? Burly up front and OEM "skids" for the rest?

In my thinking, it's the middle that's most susceptible to damage, because you don't have the tires handling the weight in the middle. Front and back only ever handle half your truck, while the middle might have to carry the entire weight a moment or two... The most bent-up skids I've seen were thrashed in the middle...but my experience is limited compared to some here.

What you tink Taco?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

In my thinking, it's the middle that's most susceptible to damage, because you don't have the tires handling the weight in the middle. Front and back only ever handle half your truck, while the middle might have to carry the entire weight a moment or two... The most bent-up skids I've seen were thrashed in the middle...but my experience is limited compared to some here.

What you tink Taco?

So, from what I've seen, well, let's set the stage a bit.

Now a days, I view armor as not really for one obstacle or one trail, but as a overarching protection "plan" for the individual and their wheeling style.

So from what I've seen, most, not all, but most, kinda fall into two main categories, then there will be little subcategories off these, and cost is always the number one factor.

Both are people who want to adventure, take the family out, discover new things, not worry about damaging the underside of their truck and being stranded in the middle of nowhere with the only difference being:

Group 1: Hits the front plate, and decides to adjust, weather taking a better line, or bypassing, or something other than just pounding through it
Group 2: Looks at the obstacle, and decides they are going to get through it, doesn't matter how, drag their way over, winch if needed, scraping and banging.

I guess what I'm trying to say is take me, I generally take a bit more hit to the center of my truck than the front, but I fall in group 2, and while I would want stronger protection in the center, my style means that I probably will hit the front also, and probably not gently at that. Not to say I beat my truck, far from it, but I want to know what's beyond the obstacle in front of me, if my truck can't handle it, i'll make it stronger, and try again till I make it.

Now take my brother, he tests everything off his from plate, and he has a double cab short bed tacoma, WAY longer wheel base with so much more potential to slam the center of his truck more than any of us LX/LC guys ever will purely because of wheel base and break-over angle. But he falls in group 1, and regardless of his vehicle, his style, really only requires him to have the front be 3/16".

Funny thing is, we've always finished every trail together with no damage (only talking about my production vehicles)

I hope that I made some sense with that.

 

[Swampmonger]

That's a really good point to bring up. Plus what you are talking about is something that about a 1/3 of guys that buy Bud's plates do, mix and match for what they need.

I would still need you to answer one more question. When you say your front skid gets smashed every once in a while, just to make sure i'm thinking of this right, you are talking about the front slope of the stock metal skid? and with that, just to make sure, you are not seeing impacts by the engine oil pan (the plastic splash shield)?

I definitely fall into Group 1 from your reply to @Markuson. We usually bang the front slope of the skid on something big while slowly traversing a technical section of the trail so we adjust and take a more gentle line if possible. Then sometimes I'm going a little too fast and I hit a bump and compress the suspension and we pile drive the front of the skid into the dirt.

The only time I've hit in the middle or back of the front skid is when I'm trying to sneak over a high obstacle and my tires fall into a rut or divot causing the truck to slam down on whatever is underneath it. That happens very rarely, but it does happen.

All that is to say that I try to avoid big hits, but sometimes they happen. However, I never brute force it and drag my rig over obstacles. Unless, of course, I underestimate an obstacle and have no choice but to brute force my way out of it (which hasn't happened yet, thankfully).

 

[TonyP]

Brute force is a hoot. That thundering bang and instant zero forward momentum is what dreams are made of. Nightmares, but dreams nonetheless. Oddly enough in this 200 my front LCAs have taken the most hits. Maybe I'm just a s***ty driver.

 

[Markuson]

I definitely fall into Group 1 from your reply to @Markuson. We usually bang the front slope of the skid on something big while slowly traversing a technical section of the trail so we adjust and take a more gentle line if possible. Then sometimes I'm going a little too fast and I hit a bump and compress the suspension and we pile drive the front of the skid into the dirt.

The only time I've hit in the middle or back of the front skid is when I'm trying to sneak over a high obstacle and my tires fall into a rut or divot causing the truck to slam down on whatever is underneath it. That happens very rarely, but it does happen.

All that is to say that I try to avoid big hits, but sometimes they happen. However, I never brute force it and drag my rig over obstacles. Unless, of course, I underestimate an obstacle and have no choice but to brute force my way out of it (which hasn't happened yet, thankfully).

If it does happen as you say it does in your driving...I think the question would be... -how many extra pounds (srength) is it worth adding (to you) to significantly reduce the risk of serious damage in those instances. For ME, I want that possibility to be as small as is reasonably possible. I guess your answer to that...plus the likelihood of encountering that (which ONLY you will know) will shape your decision.

Thanks for thinking about it, Taco.

Options are awesome!

 

[Swampmonger]

If it does happen as you say it does in your driving...I think the question would be... -how many extra pounds (srength) is it worth adding (to you) to significantly reduce the risk of serious damage in those instances. For ME, I want that possibility to be as small as is reasonably possible. I guess your answer to that...plus the likelihood of encountering that (which ONLY you will know) will shape your decision.

Thanks for thinking about it, Taco.

Options are awesome!

If 3/16" front to back is the answer then that's fine. I just know that lots of people use 3mm aluminum ARB skids without issue so I was wondering if a hybrid setup would work.

 

[Markuson]

If 3/16" front to back is the answer then that's fine. I just know that lots of people use 3mm aluminum ARB skids without issue so I was wondering if a hybrid setup would work.

I'm persuaded that lots of ARB skids stay fine because they aren't "skidding" all that much... I'll be replacing mine. -Not because they are destroyed, but because I plan on doing things that I'm convinced are likely to destroy them (and perhaps important stuff above them). The majority of their time on my truck happened to be when I've been temporarily crippled after my injury... But that will soon pass.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

@Swampmonger I would recommend 3/16" front and mid plate (that is what replaces the stock metal skids)
then run 1/8 steel or aluminum for the trans and transfer case
then don't waste your money on a gas tank skid

@TonyP, yea you must suck at wheeling. haha, no just playing, but you bring up a really good point. You are hitting lower control arms a lot, where I have barely hit an IFS lower control arms since '01 across 3 different platforms. One is not right or wrong, it is just how we look at an obstacle and decide what line to take. Also, I bet while I might avoid LCA hits, I'm probably hitting something else that you never do.

For everyone, I think this is where, going and doing some light wheeling, and finding your style or checking where you are hitting is what will make it easiest to determine where to put the money or weight of skids around your truck.

or another way to look at it, is for me, I don't want to hit my skids, but I have found that I would rather safely drag on something underneath to avoid putting the whole truck close to a rock or tree.

 

[Mogwai]

I'm curious about actual weight differences between the steel and aluminum finished products. I too would be interested in some hybrid type setup to reduce weight if the weight was significant, most likely the same scenario you mention above.

 

[DeckerT4R]

I'm curious about actual weight differences between the steel and aluminum finished products. I too would be interested in some hybrid type setup to reduce weight if the weight was significant, most likely the same scenario you mention above.

I am curious about this as well. How much weight difference are we talking between the heavy duty and light duty options? Sorry to bombard you with questions @Taco2Cruiser

 

[TonyP]

@Swampmonger I would recommend 3/16" front and mid plate (that is what replaces the stock metal skids)
then run 1/8 steel or aluminum for the trans and transfer case
then don't waste your money on a gas tank skid

@TonyP, yea you must suck at wheeling. haha, no just playing, but you bring up a really good point. You are hitting lower control arms a lot, where I have barely hit an IFS lower control arms since '01 across 3 different platforms. One is not right or wrong, it is just how we look at an obstacle and decide what line to take.

For everyone, I think this is where, going and doing some light wheeling, and finding your style or checking where you are hitting is what will make it easiest to determine where to put the money or weight of skids around your truck.

or another way to look at it, is for me, I don't want to hit my skids, but I have found that I would rather safely drag on something underneath to avoid putting the whole truck close to a rock or tree.

Haha yeah pretty much. It might be terrain, all of the instances were when my tires were in deep tracks and the LCA caught a buried rock. Short of portal axles it was unavoidable. At least that's what I tell myself.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I am curious about this as well. How much weight difference are we talking between the heavy duty and light duty options? Sorry to bombard you with questions @Taco2Cruiser

No, don't apologize, I really love this stuff, I live and breath exploring and doing it by 4x4, plus there are too many people that try and take advantage of others, the best way to do this is as cheap as possible, only dedicated money to things you need, and make sure it is built to last. Probably why Bud and I have been tinkering around together for some time now, I really like him as a person, super nice, I mean just super nice, loves helping people bring their dreams into reality, and has his amazing engineering background to make sure things made are done right, not just what looks strong.

So a general rule, it will vary a tad, but for planning purposes while we get these finalized. aluminum and 1/8" is about 40-45% lighter than 3/16" steel.

Here is the problem, mounting designs (and the 200 has SO many) and overall length of the plates is what will really determine this.

There isn't much difference on individual plates, but when you have plates from very front to the gas tank, that's where you see big differences.

 

[richxd87]

Just for reference from budbuilt.com
(I imagine we'll be in this ballpark minus some)

07-17 Tundra 6 Piece Combo - 260lbs
07-17 Tundra 6 Piece Combo Lite Option - 138lbs

07-17 Tundra 2 Piece Combo - 74lbs
07-17 Tundra 2 Piece Combo Lite Options - 48lbs

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Just for reference from budbuilt.com
(I imagine we'll be in this ballpark minus some)

07-17 Tundra 6 Piece Combo - 260lbs
07-17 Tundra 6 Piece Combo Lite Option - 138lbs

07-17 Tundra 2 Piece Combo - 74lbs
07-17 Tundra 2 Piece Combo Lite Options - 48lbs

I think it will be closer to a 4Runner in terms of weight, but a bit heavier.

Front to back on a 5th gen 4Runner weighs 199 pounds in 3/16 steel, 116 pounds in aluminum, and 126 pounds in Lite steel

The tundra is a much longer vehicle, so the plates are forced to be longer which means more material and therefore heavier.

 

[MScruiser]

Any updates on the sliders?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Any updates on the sliders?

They are complete, just would need to be built for your order, being new and completely made in house, stock isn't built up much. Hell, a guy called and wanted my BudBuilt sliders so bad (even though they are used). Tried to say that if he just gave us a couple weeks he could have a new pair, but he didn't care, so fresh powder coat and on their way.

Bud is in the middle of hiring an additional engineer and another fabricator to keep up with orders. Plus he's also handling all this new Tacoma stuff. Not an excuse, just business growing pains, which is a good thing.

Did you want more info or a timeline to build?

Sorry for the long response, I'm just a very transparent guy when it comes to people's money and expectation management. Bud always tells me he won't take someone's money until he can immediately get the product to them or immediately start building it, unlike those other ones that take your money with a 8-10 lead time (that's a more Tacoma/4Runner/FJ company thing)

 

[M1911]

I sent in a contact request on BudBuilt's web site. Is that the best way to get in line for sliders?

 

[KLF]

I am so glad to see that Bud is getting really busy, and he is developing products for the 200-series. Bud is a great guy, and has excellent service, I have known him since... 1997 (I think?). He was on the very first wheeling trip I went on, in Massachusetts, this is before he started BudBuilt. I remember him telling me about an idea to start a business making crossmembers out of his barn in upstate NY, with plans to start making frames, I though he was nuts. I still have one of his prototype crossmembers on my '87 pickup, we hand-bent it together, I believe there is a picture on his website somewhere. He really does know his stuff on these type of designs, he's had some interesting engineering jobs, and a side career as a racer.

He absolutely warranties all his stuff, and stands behind everything. I have a BudBuilt tie rod that I bought in 2003, but when I couldn't get an end out last Fall (corrosion despite lots of anti-sieze used), I called to order another one. He wouldn't take my money, sent me one gratis.

I'm not in a hurry but as soon as the dust settles and he takes care of the backlog of orders from the hard-core guys, I'll be ordering at least a skidplate or 2, maybe sliders.

 

[MScruiser]

They are complete, just would need to be built for your order, being new and completely made in house, stock isn't built up much. Hell, a guy called and wanted my BudBuilt sliders so bad (even though they are used). Tried to say that if he just gave us a couple weeks he could have a new pair, but he didn't care, so fresh powder coat and on their way.

Bud is in the middle of hiring an additional engineer and another fabricator to keep up with orders. Plus he's also handling all this new Tacoma stuff. Not an excuse, just business growing pains, which is a good thing.

Did you want more info or a timeline to build?

Sorry for the long response, I'm just a very transparent guy when it comes to people's money and expectation management. Bud always tells me he won't take someone's money until he can immediately get the product to them or immediately start building it, unlike those other ones that take your money with a 8-10 lead time (that's a more Tacoma/4Runner/FJ company thing)

Wanted to figure out lead times, costs, etc.