BudBuilt 200 Series Skid Plates, Sliders, High Clearance Rear Bumper (1 Viewer)

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I'm in LA so if the SD guys don't mind, I would love to save a bit on shipping and drive down to pick them up. Let me know.
 
MrCWineMan said:
Is there pricing, or should I PM/ Email?
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Slider Pricing:

.120 HREW: $625
.120 DOM: $700
.188 DOM: $715
Fill plates: Just rear area: $95; Full fill plate: $168
Powder Coating $152
Step Slider, Rock Slider, or Rock Slider w/Kicker: no cost difference

Fill plate design is
Smooth Metal
Diamond Plate
Dimple Die Up (give a nice grip surface)
Dimple Die Down (what I have on my truck, see page 3)

Powder Coating Color: Anything you want, but for easy selection
Flat Black
Semi-gloss Black
Gun Metal Grey
Metallic Silver
Red
Blue
Yellow
 
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I was looking online and I saw that Budbuilt only had 2 positive reviews on Google. He has a lot more on Facebook but not everyone is on Facebook and most searches are done via Google. I'm not sure how much it would help, but it definitely won't hurt, especially if he is trying to expand his online presence. So please post a review if you get a chance.

Edit: Also add pictures if possible
 
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I'm excited to make that long (30 minute) drive to Bud to pick up a set of sliders and a few other goodies.....just let me know when!
Hopefully we can time it so I can take you and Bud out to lunch!
 
sorry for the stupid question, yours is the rock slider with kicker. What is the difference between that and the step slider?
 
EPUro2019 said:
sorry for the stupid question, yours is the rock slider with kicker. What is the difference between that and the step slider?
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The rock sliders are angled up about 20°, that gives a few more inches of ground clearance at that vulnerable, low spot.
Step sliders don't angle up, and just go strait out from the frame rail. That mean the outer tube sits lower, and can get hung up on more things.

Bud's rock and step sliders, are exactly the same except for the angle of the outer tube. So Bud's step slider is rock slider strength. Really it comes down what your style of off-roading, and what you and your passengers want.

I personally like rock sliders better to step up into the cab over step sliders, but some like a nice flat surface to step up into the cab.


The rock sliders, come either with or without a kicker. The kicker is a 2" bump out on the back corner or the slider. This is my personally opinion, but I play in big rocks a lot, I couldn't image not having a kicker on the back corner. But I wheel in tight narrow off camber trails. Again its personnel preference. So usually it comes down to the trails you like to run.

Hopefully that helps, but please, ask questions away if want to talk about your own needs. I'm sure there are people out there that are wondering the same thing.
 
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Taco2Cruiser said:
The rock sliders are angled up about 20°, that gives a few more inches of ground clearance at that vulnerable, low spot.
Step sliders don't angle up, and just go strait out from the frame rail. That mean the outer tube sits lower, and can get hung up on more things.

Most rock and step sliders, are exactly the same except for the angle of the outer tube. So Bud's step slider is rock slider strength. Really it comes down what your style of off-roading, and what you and your passengers want.

I personally like rock sliders better to step up into the cab over step sliders, but some like a nice flat surface to step up into the cab.


The rock sliders, come either with or without a kicker. The kicker is a 2" bump out on the back corner or the slider. This is my personally opinion, but I play in big rocks a lot, I couldn't image not having a kicker on the back corner. But I wheel in tight narrow off camber trails. Again its personnel preference. So usually it comes down to the trails you like to run.

Hopefully that helps, but please, ask questions away if want to talk about your own needs. I'm sure there are people out there that are wondering the same thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, very helpful! I am definitely interested in these. The running boards have got to go!
 
TonyP said:
In my defense, I'm 100% not from nor do I claim Utah as my own. I'm just a victim of circumstance.
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Haha, I know, I'm just messing' around like normal. Truth be told, Utah is in the top 3 places I would love to live one day, beautiful area. When I lived in El Paso, I got up to Utah as much as I could, and really enjoyed it.
 
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Here, I fixed it for you:

TonyP said:
Aside from being looked at like you're the anti-christ when you wander around a convenience store for a couple minutes before you finally have to ask "where the heck is the beer", it's not so bad here :)
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Well at least that was my experience, actual results may vary:confused:
 
ForrestGrump said:
Is there any chance that there's a front bumper build by Bud in future also? Bumper to bumper BudBuilt armor....
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Yep. But front bumpers take him a little bit of time, because of, well... there is a lot more things with building a front bumper when an engineer does it.

He's got just boxes of bent 1/4" and 3/8" plates that sadly a lot of other fabrication shops use on the front of newer Toyota frames. Actually a large chunk of his work is fixing bad product designs and broken frames. (like on my FJ many years ago)

I digress, so the front of these Toyota frames are not that strong, they are pretty thin of metal, with crush dimples, and failure points drilled into them for crash reasons. He doesn't want to bolt on a super strong bumper and then everything behind it is weaker than the bumper. This matters on the 20-35 mph wrecks and HARD slams into rocks.

Bumpers need to be strong and not move when slammed into the ground when offroad, but where is the line when you need the bumper to fail before the frame? And then, where is the line that you need the frame and bumper to eventually hold everything they got, like in the event of a horrible wreck and keep the passenger safe?

Since Bud is a longtime mechanical engineer with specialties in material science and failure analysis, he worked for over a decade as a design engineer, then worked as an engineer in autocross and rally car world, then he worked for another decade as manufacturing engineer, developing products and the processes to manufacture them. Well, when you have that guy building a front bumper on a truck, a lot more goes into it than what the normal industry can even think of.
 
I'm looking forward to their bumper designs for the 2016+ model years. One design thought that would be an added benefit would be a full replacement front and rear that doesn't require cutting plastic molding to put back on the vehicle to fill gaps. A set of replacement bumpers that allows for all the factory body cladding voids so you can take the factory plastic bumper off and install the new metal bumper with no body work.

Maybe a pipe dream and not something feasible but none the less a wish of mine.
 
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