Broken Timing Belt Confirmed

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Not the case. Different chemical makeup.

Red is still red when mixed. The super Long Life looks like pink lemonade. That is the visual tell-tale.
 
Not the case. Different chemical makeup.

Red is still red when mixed. The super Long Life looks like pink lemonade. That is the visual tell-tale.

I edited the link above, but per this TSB they're 100% compatible.
 
Are you using this***Yes this one in my 2001 TLC UZJ100. My parts "great" guy's help me a little on price with tax $21.79. Seem to go up every few years. :bounce:

http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/images/products/preview/00272-1llac.jpg

or this?**************** Not this one. They do have a premix but I think it's LLC. This SLLC may be for the high interval/mile in newer systems. :whoops:

http://artsautomotive.com/classic/FluidsToyotaSLLCoolant.jpg

My dealer doesn't even carry the LLC any more. And its too expensive to ship. Too bad because it would be more economical to mix in the field as you do. IIRC $25/gal for the SLCC and it takes 4 gals to get a complete drain/refill.
The LLC is what I use. I can't get the last 4qt out of my coolant system, so I put 1qt of 100% red to start (after distilled water flush), them mix balance outside in containers. Holding back a little 100% for future use/ mix to get -34 deg.

Those coolants are NOT interchangeable.
Dan am I right in thinking the Supper LL coolant (SLLC) is diffrent in color and for high millage used in newer systems, not to be use in the older systems like my 2001 TLC UZJ100?
 
I edited the link above, but per this TSB they're 100% compatible.

I have been told by more than one factory rep that they should not be mixed. I am in the process of searching for some sort of documentation that specifically states that but I have not yet found it. I can tell you that the chemical makeup between the two is different but I am not a chemist and I do not know the chemical ramififations, if any, mixing may have.

An interesting bit of info I did find is the shelf life for the super long life coolant (the stuff that has a much longer service interval) is "one year" and the shelf life of the long life (red that you change more frequently) is "indefinite". :doh:
 
I have been told by more than one factory rep that they should not be mixed. I am in the process of searching for some sort of documentation that specifically states that but I have not yet found it. I can tell you that the chemical makeup between the two is different but I am not a chemist and I do not know the chemical ramififations, if any, mixing may have.

If there is something bad, please do post it up. I got 90% of it out but didn't bother to flush the rest thinking the TSB was accurate and that you could indeed intermix the two. I've not seen any ill effect and the color isn't cloudy or anything....

An interesting bit of info I did find is the shelf life for the super long life coolant (the stuff that has a much longer service interval) is "one year" and the shelf life of the long life (red that you change more frequently) is "indefinite". :doh:

Ha! Well, there's an expiration date on my beer too, but I'd still drink it after!
 
If there is something bad, please do post it up. I got 90% of it out but didn't bother to flush the rest thinking the TSB was accurate and that you could indeed intermix the two. I've not seen any ill effect and the color isn't cloudy or anything....

I doubt you would have any issues.
 
I doubt you would have any issues.

I think most of us here (and I'm one of the worst) get lost in the intricacies of what is the perfect oil/lube/coolant/etc for our trucks. OTOH, there are probably 1,000's of 100s over the globe running on a mix of goats milk, sand, and sewer water and they get by perfectly fine and for a fraction of the maintenance cost.
 
Brave! I had mine kick over a lobe unintentionally after replacing the cam seals while tightening the cam gear bolt. 'Bout s*** a brick. Glad to hear you've turn them a full 360 sans damage.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...0-timing-belt-service-info-archives-read.html

There's a lot of arrows here in this thread pointing to non-interference.

This is the 2nd recent post of a broken belt. Lange had one back in Sept, also with no damage. Start on post #11: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/767719-lx-470-timing-belt-service-info-archives-read.html

These 2 failures plus others rotating the cams in this thread were all non vvti japan motors. It's still a possibility the vvti motors run higher lift, thus interference in a timing belt failure. Maybe one day we can confirm, but I wouldn't want to try :)
 
Brave! I had mine kick over a lobe unintentionally after replacing the cam seals while tightening the cam gear bolt. 'Bout **** a brick. Glad to hear you've turn them a full 360 sans damage.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...ives-read.html

This one at least is not definitive unless we know that the engine was at TDC [which is likely but not stated]. Anyone doing a TB could test this safely:
- engine confirmed at TDC
- rotate the cam carefully. If there's nothing but spring pressure, there's you answer. If it blocks, there's the other answer. No chance of damaging anything short of getting adventurous and trying to turn it through after it blocks. :o
 
I think most of us here (and I'm one of the worst) get lost in the intricacies of what is the perfect oil/lube/coolant/etc for our trucks. OTOH, there are probably 1,000's of 100s over the globe running on a mix of goats milk, sand, and sewer water and they get by perfectly fine and for a fraction of the maintenance cost.

We have "first world LC problems."

:lol:

IE: Walmart and Amsoil problems
 
^ its been debated with most leaning towards the interference side. However when I did my first t-belt I gently rotated one cam by hand through its cycle and I didn't get any interference...FWTW.

I doubt if the crank, in jgray's t-belt break, stopped instantly...but just a guess.
Presumably this was while following the FSM procedure, so crank would be set to TDC. At least two opposing pistons would be at top. So even when turning only one cam this should take it through a full extending of valves into one cylinder with piston at top, wouldn't it?:confused:

I could be wrong, as last time i took a V-8 apart (aging myself :grinpimp:) it was a 1968 400cu out of my GTO, which only has one cam.

These 2ZJ FE's cams may need to be turned twice (720 deg), does anyone know?:confused:


This one at least is not definitive unless we know that the engine was at TDC [which is likely but not stated]. Anyone doing a TB could test this safely:
- engine confirmed at TDC
- rotate the cam carefully. If there's nothing but spring pressure, there's you answer. If it blocks, there's the other answer. No chance of damaging anything short of getting adventurous and trying to turn it through after it blocks. :o
Would close this question for ever, wouldn't it? Along with jgray statement of being under load (accelerating) seals the deal IMHO.

The highly unlike possibility of all cams instantly stopping in a position where not one valve was fully extend, is so remote it may in fact not be in realm of possibilities.

:confused:What say "all" in the realm of possibilities or not?:confused:
 
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I agree with the mineral buildup statement, either by way of hard domestic water or by chemical etching of interior components. But even with non-Toyota fluids red should be red. I gotta believe with the age of our fleet and variety of previous owners here, more than a handful of folks have Napa (or some other generic) coolant pumping through their system and are oblivious and happily wheeling away sans trouble. Now take the case of LLC vs SLLC where Toyota themselves claim it is "completely compatible" I have zero concern. Would be way more concerned about tap water than pink/red Yota juice. Just because they chems are different doesn't mean there with be a reaction between them.

Have we seen a cooling system or head gasket failure that was coolant related?
 
Cruiser Dan and Beno are the exception, but in general my order of trust would be TSB>MUD>Hobo under the bridge>Parts Guy>my wife's cat. Just because someone told someone who told someone and then it became epic tribal knowledge doesn't mean it's true. I can't believe for a second that my 04 is happy with SLLC sitting in her but my 00 will blow up unless she has LLC mixed by moi. Toyota engineers are a pretty smart bunch and I'm guessing have studied a bit of PhD level chem and if they say in a written TSB that has never been rescinded that they are 100% compatible then I'm thinking it's probably 150% compatible. I'm sure you can imagine the liability if cooling systems started failing based upon this.

That said, I'm sure LLC is perfectly fine as well. You'll just attract a lower caliber of chicks and your mileage will suffer.
 
TSB states pink LLC is interchangeable with red LLC, starting in 2002. This not the same as SLLC antifreeze, which I have no idea what color it is, maybe orange.:bang:

This is not a TSB, but from Toyota and it does say SLLC is compatible with LLC red: http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pa...oogle|AfterSales_Part_Types|_+toyota_+coolant


Oh no some with pink, some orange. Well, lets not tell the 80 guy's they never let us live it down.
 
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I have been told by more than one factory rep that they should not be mixed. I am in the process of searching for some sort of documentation that specifically states that but I have not yet found it. I can tell you that the chemical makeup between the two is different but I am not a chemist and I do not know the chemical ramififations, if any, mixing may have.

An interesting bit of info I did find is the shelf life for the super long life coolant (the stuff that has a much longer service interval) is "one year" and the shelf life of the long life (red that you change more frequently) is "indefinite". :doh:

subscribed

Looking forward to the final final word...

:)
 
FWIW, just popped the radiator caps on both the 00 LC and 04 LX. Both coolants look exactly the same; semi-translucent pink lemonade. You can see the aluminum fins down through the throat on both and they're both completely clean. Viscosity (by the thumb/finger gauge) is consistent. I'm sure it's fine guys. Toyota would have labels on the pink SLLC if they were concerned about mixing. If anything, I would lean toward the SLLC being a more advanced formula that will hold up better. And the fact that we have two data points (the TSB and the link 2001LC posted) there's a pretty strong indication it was designed by Toyota to be compatible. The latter, I actually ran myself from the start by selecting the 2000 LC and it actually recommends the pink SLLC.
 
a good coolant thread is always appreciated. Here it's kind of mixed in with something mostly unrelated unfortunately.
 
a good coolant thread is always appreciated. Here it's kind of mixed in with something mostly unrelated unfortunately.

I think we lost thread purity when we went to the "what did you do today" mode. Tons of good ideas in there, but hard to search.

Sent from my KFJWI HD
 
I guess I missed it, but why is mixing coolant even being discussed?

So the guy's T-belt broke while running down the hwy, he also tried starting the engine after it broke and the the valves didn't contact the pistons somehow?
 

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