Those coolants are NOT interchangeable.
I thought Toyota red was Toyota red, one was just pre-mixed.
Edit: See TSB http://www.toyotapart.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf
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Those coolants are NOT interchangeable.
Not the case. Different chemical makeup.
Red is still red when mixed. The super Long Life looks like pink lemonade. That is the visual tell-tale.
The LLC is what I use. I can't get the last 4qt out of my coolant system, so I put 1qt of 100% red to start (after distilled water flush), them mix balance outside in containers. Holding back a little 100% for future use/ mix to get -34 deg.Are you using this***Yes this one in my 2001 TLC UZJ100. My parts "great" guy's help me a little on price with tax $21.79. Seem to go up every few years.
http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/images/products/preview/00272-1llac.jpg
or this?**************** Not this one. They do have a premix but I think it's LLC. This SLLC may be for the high interval/mile in newer systems. :whoops:
http://artsautomotive.com/classic/FluidsToyotaSLLCoolant.jpg
My dealer doesn't even carry the LLC any more. And its too expensive to ship. Too bad because it would be more economical to mix in the field as you do. IIRC $25/gal for the SLCC and it takes 4 gals to get a complete drain/refill.
Dan am I right in thinking the Supper LL coolant (SLLC) is diffrent in color and for high millage used in newer systems, not to be use in the older systems like my 2001 TLC UZJ100?Those coolants are NOT interchangeable.
I edited the link above, but per this TSB they're 100% compatible.
I have been told by more than one factory rep that they should not be mixed. I am in the process of searching for some sort of documentation that specifically states that but I have not yet found it. I can tell you that the chemical makeup between the two is different but I am not a chemist and I do not know the chemical ramififations, if any, mixing may have.
An interesting bit of info I did find is the shelf life for the super long life coolant (the stuff that has a much longer service interval) is "one year" and the shelf life of the long life (red that you change more frequently) is "indefinite".![]()
If there is something bad, please do post it up. I got 90% of it out but didn't bother to flush the rest thinking the TSB was accurate and that you could indeed intermix the two. I've not seen any ill effect and the color isn't cloudy or anything....
I doubt you would have any issues.
Brave! I had mine kick over a lobe unintentionally after replacing the cam seals while tightening the cam gear bolt. 'Bout s*** a brick. Glad to hear you've turn them a full 360 sans damage.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...0-timing-belt-service-info-archives-read.html
There's a lot of arrows here in this thread pointing to non-interference.
This is the 2nd recent post of a broken belt. Lange had one back in Sept, also with no damage. Start on post #11: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/767719-lx-470-timing-belt-service-info-archives-read.html
Brave! I had mine kick over a lobe unintentionally after replacing the cam seals while tightening the cam gear bolt. 'Bout **** a brick. Glad to hear you've turn them a full 360 sans damage.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...ives-read.html
I think most of us here (and I'm one of the worst) get lost in the intricacies of what is the perfect oil/lube/coolant/etc for our trucks. OTOH, there are probably 1,000's of 100s over the globe running on a mix of goats milk, sand, and sewer water and they get by perfectly fine and for a fraction of the maintenance cost.
Presumably this was while following the FSM procedure, so crank would be set to TDC. At least two opposing pistons would be at top. So even when turning only one cam this should take it through a full extending of valves into one cylinder with piston at top, wouldn't it?^ its been debated with most leaning towards the interference side. However when I did my first t-belt I gently rotated one cam by hand through its cycle and I didn't get any interference...FWTW.
I doubt if the crank, in jgray's t-belt break, stopped instantly...but just a guess.
Would close this question for ever, wouldn't it? Along with jgray statement of being under load (accelerating) seals the deal IMHO.This one at least is not definitive unless we know that the engine was at TDC [which is likely but not stated]. Anyone doing a TB could test this safely:
- engine confirmed at TDC
- rotate the cam carefully. If there's nothing but spring pressure, there's you answer. If it blocks, there's the other answer. No chance of damaging anything short of getting adventurous and trying to turn it through after it blocks.![]()
I have been told by more than one factory rep that they should not be mixed. I am in the process of searching for some sort of documentation that specifically states that but I have not yet found it. I can tell you that the chemical makeup between the two is different but I am not a chemist and I do not know the chemical ramififations, if any, mixing may have.
An interesting bit of info I did find is the shelf life for the super long life coolant (the stuff that has a much longer service interval) is "one year" and the shelf life of the long life (red that you change more frequently) is "indefinite".![]()
a good coolant thread is always appreciated. Here it's kind of mixed in with something mostly unrelated unfortunately.