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Brake fluids are usually VERY light in color. a darker color means it is contaminated - flush it out post-haste, it causes many problems, most of them expensive to fix!It's been 2 days since I cleared the code and nothing has come back yet. So?
When I was clearing it, I noticed these other 3 codes as well:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1268 L4 Signal Pickup
C1340 Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock ON)
But they haven't returned either. One more question: what color is the brake fluid suppose to be? Mine is quite dark, nearly black.
Sometimes when I work on them, I may forget to plug in something and start or battery voltage drops to low. Many things can kick off a DTC (code) Rule of thumb: Record DTC (codes) clear and see if returns.It's been 2 days since I cleared the code and nothing has come back yet. So?
When I was clearing it, I noticed these other 3 codes as well:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1268 L4 Signal Pickup
C1340 Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock ON)
But they haven't returned either. One more question: what color is the brake fluid suppose to be? Mine is quite dark, nearly black.
Ok thanks... my concern is potentially feeding the system with more gunk from the reservoir... which may or may not come out at the calipers.I would just flush it through the calipers.
But that's just, like, my opinion.
I'd drain from rear caliper. Key on, brake pedal pressed.Hi there 2001LC. Thanks for the time and info you have shared here... its been a great read!
My "new to me" 100 is looking like it needs some love and we have been slowly going through some jobs, and this brake system is very new to me. I've mainly wrenched on older 4x4's and I'm gaining the courage to tackle this job.
Its a 2006 UZJ100 and the Brake Reservoir is looking like its well overdue for a flush. After reading through this thread a number of times, (I'm sure I will need to read it again a few more times) I'm preparing to give it a go. Id imagine there will be some sludge in there so I have bought a fresh Brake Master Reservoir and the 3 Grommets needed. I will also purchase Toyota DOT III brake fluid from my local.
The system is working fine with no warning lights or signs of leaks anywhere. The fluid just looks dark and well past its use by date. I understand your comments in that there may be breakdown of internal seals/rubber, but the system shows no issues and run times seem fine.
My question is, in removing the reservoir, would it be better to flush the old stuff out via the rear caliper, or just take the old reservoir off, full of old fluid, trying to catch most of the brake fluid and clean quickly, and then flush the system with fresh brake fluid and new reservoir fitted?
I certainly welcome your comments and advice in doing this job. I don't have the Toyota software so will bleed using your method.
Thanks in advance.
Eric.![]()
Thanks for the reply... So drain out of caliper until I can see it down the bottom of reservoir, or let it stop itself when it runs out of fluid?I'd drain from rear caliper. Key on, brake pedal pressed.
It would be very messy, if you don't drain out a rear caliper. You'd have to rinse with water asap, or damage paint of inner fender, frame and possible firewall behind the blanket. You'd also surely get a lot on master. As such, on brake control wire, which we never want. It's the fluid getting on wire and in the boots of brake control wire, we're most concerned with.
If res so gunky, flushing would result in excessive guk flowing into system. Then, seals and screens and valves of ABS are already in poor condition.
Ok great! thanks for your help... will see how I go.Bottom of res plus a little. Best to not run pump motor more than 2 minutes or run pump dry.
That's so clean! Looks like a straightforward process on the swap, just 3 screws and get the reservoir as empty as possible.....any tips for removing as much fluid as possible?Hi all.
So I tackled the brake system flush today... along with fitting a fresh reservoir to the system.
Thanks to the info here, the job wasn't so scary...
The cutaway of the old reservoir certainly tells it how it is... no amout of cleaning/flushing would get rid of that.
The info on the Toyota brake fluid is a bit light on here in Australia... but happy with the results.
Thanks very much.
View attachment 3730487
Thank you... a job I am glad I did...That's so clean! Looks like a straightforward process on the swap, just 3 screws and get the reservoir as empty as possible.....any tips for removing as much fluid as possible?
Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.Hi all.
So I tackled the brake system flush today... along with fitting a fresh reservoir to the system.
Thanks to the info here, the job wasn't so scary...
The cutaway of the old reservoir certainly tells it how it is... no amout of cleaning/flushing would get rid of that.
The info on the Toyota brake fluid is a bit light on here in Australia... but happy with the results.
Thanks very much.
View attachment 3730487
View attachment 3730488
View attachment 3730489
View attachment 3730490
Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.
Some years ago, our bottles list the manufacture. Which was same company that made the factory fill. The factory fill is the best fluid I've seen, at not attracting moisture. So it last a very long time without darkening from moisture. The USA EPA laws, prohibit the factory fill formula from being imported in bottles to the USA. So we get some type of altered formula, that was from same factory fill manufacturer once. Today our bottles no longer tell use the manufacture.
View attachment 3734819
You would think that ALL Toyota brake fluid is the same... however its transported. Toyota state standards so one would expect the standard is the same across the world.Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.
Some years ago, our bottles list the manufacture. Which was same company that made the factory fill. The factory fill is the best fluid I've seen, at not attracting moisture. So it last a very long time without darkening from moisture. The USA EPA laws, prohibit the factory fill formula from being imported in bottles to the USA. So we get some type of altered formula, that was from same factory fill manufacturer once. Today our bottles no longer tell use the manufacture.
View attachment 3734819
Awesome! Thanks very much for your reply. I did have a read of the bulletin and although it seemed to relate to certain cars in the US, it was interesting to find out just how important the fluid is.I first learned, not all DOT III the same. When a Toyota Shop foreman mention, he once thought the same. Until the Oct 21, 2010 Toyota brake master recall.
Which sited, use of off the shelf brake fluid added to system, as cause.
"Q2: What is the cause of this condition?
A2: If replacement brake fluid is used that does not contain polymers, or that contain only small amounts, a part of the rubber seal (Brake Master Cylinder Cup) located at the rear of the brake master cylinder may become dry, and the seal may curl during movement of the piston. If this occurs, a small amount of the brake fluid could slowly leak from the seal into the brake booster, resulting in illumination of the brake warning lamp."
Stevenson West (Lexus & Toyota) has been on my avoid list for 10 years. No, I do not publish a list. I heard, they were bought-out. Seems their shop, no better for it.Hi Paul -
This is my first time reaching out to you via MUD but thought it was just as good a time as ever! I just read your thread on brakes from 2020 and learned a ton. I did so after coming home and finding a puddle of brake fluid under my truck after driving it home from Stevinson West yesterday. I took it in and had them do a few things, but asked if they could flush and fill the brake fluid. Not thinking much of it, I drove home to Boulder and didn't notice any issues. Fast forward to this evening and I see the puddle, open the hood to see that the fluid is WAY over the fill line, the fluid was visible touching the top of the res. So much so that it must have purged through the cap and dripped over the edge and onto the driveway. I immediately grabbed a turkey baster, pulled about a cup of fluid out until it was at the max line, and cleaned up as much spillage as possible after learning about the hygroscopic effect of brake fluid from your thread. As of now, I don't think any got onto the wires at the base. Fingers crossed. Long story short, I am wondering if I need to be super concerned about my master cylinder failing from excess pressure from the fluid, or from any fluid I wasn't able to see on the wires.
I am at a bit of a loss as what to do. I will be contacting Stevinson first thing tomorrow but wanted to know what you thought of the whole situation, and to see if it's safe for me to drive in the current state. It just rolled over 300,000 and I plan on keeping it forever as most of us do, and am terrified at the price of a new master cylinder!
You should take Paul up on his offer, he is amazing and is the 100 series deity.Many DMs (AKA PMs) I get daily, would be better in the public forum. So all can benefit from. Here's one:
Stevenson West (Lexus & Toyota) has been on my avoid list for 10 years. No, I do not publish a list. I heard, they were bought-out. Seems their shop, no better for it.
I've no idea of condition of your brakes, so I can't say if safe to drive.
That said:
The issue of brake fluid getting into boots of brake control wires, due to overflowing or leaks. Is a concern, long after it first happens. Since, first it takes time for wires leeds, to build corrosion on them to point it increases resistance in/at connection points. Then take more time, for the increased resistance, to result in excessive booster motor commutator wear. How much time, is measure in years, in most cases!
It would be a good idea, once all fluid off outside of brake master and its brake control wire. To peel back control wire boots and clean with a spray can of plastic safe electronic parts cleaner. Then dry and pack boots with dielectric grease.
You're, welcome to stop by anytime. I can do an overall vehicle inspection, no change! I do most in my driveway. So need a dry day, and clean vehicle. This includes clean undercarriage. But do not use degreases. This way I can see oil leaks.