Brakes ...... Overdue write-up. (10 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Clear the code, and see if returns.

 

[MrA]

It's been 2 days since I cleared the code and nothing has come back yet. So?

When I was clearing it, I noticed these other 3 codes as well:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1268 L4 Signal Pickup
C1340 Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock ON)

But they haven't returned either. One more question: what color is the brake fluid suppose to be? Mine is quite dark, nearly black.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

It's been 2 days since I cleared the code and nothing has come back yet. So?

When I was clearing it, I noticed these other 3 codes as well:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1268 L4 Signal Pickup
C1340 Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock ON)

But they haven't returned either. One more question: what color is the brake fluid suppose to be? Mine is quite dark, nearly black.

Brake fluids are usually VERY light in color. a darker color means it is contaminated - flush it out post-haste, it causes many problems, most of them expensive to fix!

 

[2001LC]

It's been 2 days since I cleared the code and nothing has come back yet. So?

When I was clearing it, I noticed these other 3 codes as well:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1268 L4 Signal Pickup
C1340 Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock ON)

But they haven't returned either. One more question: what color is the brake fluid suppose to be? Mine is quite dark, nearly black.

Sometimes when I work on them, I may forget to plug in something and start or battery voltage drops to low. Many things can kick off a DTC (code) Rule of thumb: Record DTC (codes) clear and see if returns.

As part of any inspection on a 100 series. I grade the brake master, which fluids is important clue. This thread will give clues how, why and what. Perhaps you should go to OP:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

.

 

[Ribz0]

Hi there 2001LC. Thanks for the time and info you have shared here... its been a great read!

My "new to me" 100 is looking like it needs some love and we have been slowly going through some jobs, and this brake system is very new to me. I've mainly wrenched on older 4x4's and I'm gaining the courage to tackle this job.

Its a 2006 UZJ100 and the Brake Reservoir is looking like its well overdue for a flush. After reading through this thread a number of times, (I'm sure I will need to read it again a few more times) I'm preparing to give it a go. Id imagine there will be some sludge in there so I have bought a fresh Brake Master Reservoir and the 3 Grommets needed. I will also purchase Toyota DOT III brake fluid from my local.

The system is working fine with no warning lights or signs of leaks anywhere. The fluid just looks dark and well past its use by date. I understand your comments in that there may be breakdown of internal seals/rubber, but the system shows no issues and run times seem fine.

My question is, in removing the reservoir, would it be better to flush the old stuff out via the rear caliper, or just take the old reservoir off, full of old fluid, trying to catch most of the brake fluid and clean quickly, and then flush the system with fresh brake fluid and new reservoir fitted?

I certainly welcome your comments and advice in doing this job. I don't have the Toyota software so will bleed using your method.

Thanks in advance.
Eric.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I would just flush it through the calipers.
But that's just, like, my opinion.

 

[Ribz0]

I would just flush it through the calipers.
But that's just, like, my opinion.

Ok thanks... my concern is potentially feeding the system with more gunk from the reservoir... which may or may not come out at the calipers.

 

[2001LC]

Hi there 2001LC. Thanks for the time and info you have shared here... its been a great read!

My "new to me" 100 is looking like it needs some love and we have been slowly going through some jobs, and this brake system is very new to me. I've mainly wrenched on older 4x4's and I'm gaining the courage to tackle this job.

Its a 2006 UZJ100 and the Brake Reservoir is looking like its well overdue for a flush. After reading through this thread a number of times, (I'm sure I will need to read it again a few more times) I'm preparing to give it a go. Id imagine there will be some sludge in there so I have bought a fresh Brake Master Reservoir and the 3 Grommets needed. I will also purchase Toyota DOT III brake fluid from my local.

The system is working fine with no warning lights or signs of leaks anywhere. The fluid just looks dark and well past its use by date. I understand your comments in that there may be breakdown of internal seals/rubber, but the system shows no issues and run times seem fine.

My question is, in removing the reservoir, would it be better to flush the old stuff out via the rear caliper, or just take the old reservoir off, full of old fluid, trying to catch most of the brake fluid and clean quickly, and then flush the system with fresh brake fluid and new reservoir fitted?

I certainly welcome your comments and advice in doing this job. I don't have the Toyota software so will bleed using your method.

Thanks in advance.
Eric.

I'd drain from rear caliper. Key on, brake pedal pressed.

It would be very messy, if you don't drain out a rear caliper. You'd have to rinse with water asap, or damage paint of inner fender, frame and possible firewall behind the blanket. You'd also surely get a lot on master. As such, on brake control wire, which we never want. It's the fluid getting on wire and in the boots of brake control wire, we're most concerned with.

If res so gunky, flushing would result in excessive guk flowing into system. Then, seals and screens and valves of ABS are already in poor condition.

 

[Ribz0]

I'd drain from rear caliper. Key on, brake pedal pressed.

It would be very messy, if you don't drain out a rear caliper. You'd have to rinse with water asap, or damage paint of inner fender, frame and possible firewall behind the blanket. You'd also surely get a lot on master. As such, on brake control wire, which we never want. It's the fluid getting on wire and in the boots of brake control wire, we're most concerned with.

If res so gunky, flushing would result in excessive guk flowing into system. Then, seals and screens and valves of ABS are already in poor condition.

Thanks for the reply... So drain out of caliper until I can see it down the bottom of reservoir, or let it stop itself when it runs out of fluid?

 

[2001LC]

Bottom of res plus a little. Best to not run pump motor more than 2 minutes or run pump dry.

 

[Ribz0]

Bottom of res plus a little. Best to not run pump motor more than 2 minutes or run pump dry.

Ok great! thanks for your help... will see how I go.

 

[Ribz0]

Hi all.
So I tackled the brake system flush today... along with fitting a fresh reservoir to the system.
Thanks to the info here, the job wasn't so scary...
The cutaway of the old reservoir certainly tells it how it is... no amout of cleaning/flushing would get rid of that.
The info on the Toyota brake fluid is a bit light on here in Australia... but happy with the results.
Thanks very much.

 

[Zuberg]

Hi all.
So I tackled the brake system flush today... along with fitting a fresh reservoir to the system.
Thanks to the info here, the job wasn't so scary...
The cutaway of the old reservoir certainly tells it how it is... no amout of cleaning/flushing would get rid of that.
The info on the Toyota brake fluid is a bit light on here in Australia... but happy with the results.
Thanks very much.

View attachment 3730487

That's so clean! Looks like a straightforward process on the swap, just 3 screws and get the reservoir as empty as possible.....any tips for removing as much fluid as possible?

 

[Ribz0]

That's so clean! Looks like a straightforward process on the swap, just 3 screws and get the reservoir as empty as possible.....any tips for removing as much fluid as possible?

Thank you... a job I am glad I did...
You are correct... just the 3 screws holding the reservoir on.
As mentioned here earlier... I just drained most of the fluid in the reservoir through the rear callipers using the power on and 2nd person holding the pedal down while I opened the bleeder on the calliper method.
I lost a bit of fluid lifting the old reservoir off but be sure to wash it all down after installing the new reservoir.

A pic of the old reservoir cut in half... the dark spots on the left half are the screens/filters where the 3 outlets are...

 

[2001LC]

Hi all.
So I tackled the brake system flush today... along with fitting a fresh reservoir to the system.
Thanks to the info here, the job wasn't so scary...
The cutaway of the old reservoir certainly tells it how it is... no amout of cleaning/flushing would get rid of that.
The info on the Toyota brake fluid is a bit light on here in Australia... but happy with the results.
Thanks very much.

View attachment 3730487


View attachment 3730488

View attachment 3730489

View attachment 3730490

Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.

Some years ago, our bottles list the manufacture. Which was same company that made the factory fill. The factory fill is the best fluid I've seen, at not attracting moisture. So it last a very long time without darkening from moisture. The USA EPA laws, prohibit the factory fill formula from being imported in bottles to the USA. So we get some type of altered formula, that was from same factory fill manufacturer once. Today our bottles no longer tell use the manufacture.

 

[Ribz0]

Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.

Some years ago, our bottles list the manufacture. Which was same company that made the factory fill. The factory fill is the best fluid I've seen, at not attracting moisture. So it last a very long time without darkening from moisture. The USA EPA laws, prohibit the factory fill formula from being imported in bottles to the USA. So we get some type of altered formula, that was from same factory fill manufacturer once. Today our bottles no longer tell use the manufacture.
View attachment 3734819

Those bottles of brake fluid from Toyota in Australia you have, are different than we get in USA. They give more info on ingredient % and shows a difference.

Some years ago, our bottles list the manufacture. Which was same company that made the factory fill. The factory fill is the best fluid I've seen, at not attracting moisture. So it last a very long time without darkening from moisture. The USA EPA laws, prohibit the factory fill formula from being imported in bottles to the USA. So we get some type of altered formula, that was from same factory fill manufacturer once. Today our bottles no longer tell use the manufacture.
View attachment 3734819

You would think that ALL Toyota brake fluid is the same... however its transported. Toyota state standards so one would expect the standard is the same across the world.

Saying that... the specifications for brake fluid can be confusing as what they mention in the FSM is not on the Toyota bottles, but it shows up on aftermarket fluid including Dot4 fluid. So ppl think they putting in the right stuff when it clearly is not. Nor can it, or should any brake fluid be mixed.

I do see that your bottle at least mentions FMVSS NO.116 Dot3 and SAE J1703 standards.

 

[2001LC]

I first learned, not all DOT III the same. When a Toyota Shop foreman mention, he once thought the same. Until the Oct 21, 2010 Toyota brake master recall.
Which sited, use of off the shelf brake fluid added to system, as cause.

"Q2: What is the cause of this condition?
A2: If replacement brake fluid is used that does not contain polymers, or that contain only small amounts, a part of the rubber seal (Brake Master Cylinder Cup) located at the rear of the brake master cylinder may become dry, and the seal may curl during movement of the piston. If this occurs, a small amount of the brake fluid could slowly leak from the seal into the brake booster, resulting in illumination of the brake warning lamp."

 

[Ribz0]

I first learned, not all DOT III the same. When a Toyota Shop foreman mention, he once thought the same. Until the Oct 21, 2010 Toyota brake master recall.
Which sited, use of off the shelf brake fluid added to system, as cause.

"Q2: What is the cause of this condition?
A2: If replacement brake fluid is used that does not contain polymers, or that contain only small amounts, a part of the rubber seal (Brake Master Cylinder Cup) located at the rear of the brake master cylinder may become dry, and the seal may curl during movement of the piston. If this occurs, a small amount of the brake fluid could slowly leak from the seal into the brake booster, resulting in illumination of the brake warning lamp."

Awesome! Thanks very much for your reply. I did have a read of the bulletin and although it seemed to relate to certain cars in the US, it was interesting to find out just how important the fluid is.
I am certainly more educated on brake fluid thanks to the the know how here. As they say, you only know what you know... and I am certainly happy to expand my knowledge every day.
I am sure the day will come when my master unit will die... but at least I know I have done what I can to extend the life as best I can.

 

[2001LC]

Many DMs (AKA PMs) I get daily, would be better in the public forum. So all can benefit from. Here's one:

Hi Paul -

This is my first time reaching out to you via MUD but thought it was just as good a time as ever! I just read your thread on brakes from 2020 and learned a ton. I did so after coming home and finding a puddle of brake fluid under my truck after driving it home from Stevinson West yesterday. I took it in and had them do a few things, but asked if they could flush and fill the brake fluid. Not thinking much of it, I drove home to Boulder and didn't notice any issues. Fast forward to this evening and I see the puddle, open the hood to see that the fluid is WAY over the fill line, the fluid was visible touching the top of the res. So much so that it must have purged through the cap and dripped over the edge and onto the driveway. I immediately grabbed a turkey baster, pulled about a cup of fluid out until it was at the max line, and cleaned up as much spillage as possible after learning about the hygroscopic effect of brake fluid from your thread. As of now, I don't think any got onto the wires at the base. Fingers crossed. Long story short, I am wondering if I need to be super concerned about my master cylinder failing from excess pressure from the fluid, or from any fluid I wasn't able to see on the wires.

I am at a bit of a loss as what to do. I will be contacting Stevinson first thing tomorrow but wanted to know what you thought of the whole situation, and to see if it's safe for me to drive in the current state. It just rolled over 300,000 and I plan on keeping it forever as most of us do, and am terrified at the price of a new master cylinder!

Stevenson West (Lexus & Toyota) has been on my avoid list for 10 years. No, I do not publish a list. I heard, they were bought-out. Seems their shop, no better for it.

I've no idea of condition of your brakes, so I can't say if safe to drive.

That said:

The issue of brake fluid getting into boots of brake control wires, due to overflowing or leaks. Is a concern, long after it first happens. Since, first it takes time for wires leads, to build corrosion on them to point it increases resistance in/at connection points. Then take more time, for the increased resistance, to result in excessive booster motor commutator wear. How much time, is measure in years, in most cases!

It would be a good idea, once all fluid off outside of brake master and its brake control wire. To peel back control wire boots and clean with a spray can of plastic safe electronic parts cleaner. Then dry and pack boots with dielectric grease.

You're, welcome to stop by anytime. I can do an overall vehicle inspection, no change! I do most in my driveway. So need a dry day, and clean vehicle. This includes clean undercarriage. But do not use degreases. This way I can see oil leaks.

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Many DMs (AKA PMs) I get daily, would be better in the public forum. So all can benefit from. Here's one:

Stevenson West (Lexus & Toyota) has been on my avoid list for 10 years. No, I do not publish a list. I heard, they were bought-out. Seems their shop, no better for it.

I've no idea of condition of your brakes, so I can't say if safe to drive.

That said:

The issue of brake fluid getting into boots of brake control wires, due to overflowing or leaks. Is a concern, long after it first happens. Since, first it takes time for wires leeds, to build corrosion on them to point it increases resistance in/at connection points. Then take more time, for the increased resistance, to result in excessive booster motor commutator wear. How much time, is measure in years, in most cases!

It would be a good idea, once all fluid off outside of brake master and its brake control wire. To peel back control wire boots and clean with a spray can of plastic safe electronic parts cleaner. Then dry and pack boots with dielectric grease.

You're, welcome to stop by anytime. I can do an overall vehicle inspection, no change! I do most in my driveway. So need a dry day, and clean vehicle. This includes clean undercarriage. But do not use degreases. This way I can see oil leaks.

You should take Paul up on his offer, he is amazing and is the 100 series deity.