Read Brake noise/Bleeding brakes (2 Viewers)

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100 was parked for 3 weeks in anticipation for new radiator. Replaced radiator all good and well and drove and immediately heard rotational scratching noise from rear. Parked and found noise related to brakes, and decided to order new pads and rotors for rear as the fronts were replaced in 2022. Signs of sticking caliper on both rotors (pad shaped mark on one rotor and various marks on other rotor). I believe these marks were causing my scratching noise. Initially I was just going to replace the pads and rotor; but have discovered the rear driver caliper bracket lower slide pin in completely seized and rusted to the bracket.


I am deciding to just order new rear calipers to remedy the situation.

How do I properly bleed the brakes? Do I need to bleed each tire or can I just do the back two since those are the calipers I am replacing?
 
The way I bleed brakes, debatable and may not be what others do is I start farthest from the brake reservoir - I start at the rear passenger side ➡️ rear driver side ➡️ front passenger side ➡️ front driver side. And yes to ensure there are no pockets of air on any of the 4 corners it is an industry practice to bleed all of them.
 
Yes you can, just bleed rears. But, best to flush system every 2 to 3 years. I use only Toyota brake fluid.

The reason the rear pin is frozen/rusted in. Water gets into mounting plate, in pins port. Due to pin boots, not b replaced with each rear brake pad service.

You'll not need caliper. Provided Caliper not damaged from some other cause. Like lack of bleeders rubber cap. Which can damaging bleeders seat in caliper, due to rust.

You can just replace: Torque plate, sliding pins and boots.
Rear Brake caliper FSM.JPG
 

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